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Hippopotabus
Samba Member
Joined: May 27, 2004
Posts: 1600
Location: Miwuk Village, CA
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 Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 5:52 pm Post subject: |
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| It is actually decribed in your owners manual. |
Funny how we over look the most obvious. I always wonder how much revenue the Slam the Door Club has generated for the lubrication industry. 
I also paid my dues to the StDC for many years. Until someone told me to RTM (read the manual). Then I forgot about this technique and my mechanic this time siaid - "RTFM or I will tatoo it to your forehead"!
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Celer, Silens, Letalis
www.2dreconbn.net |
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hazetguy
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2001
Posts: 10773
Location: iT StiNgeD iTseLf tO dEAd
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 5:55 pm Post subject: |
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| Hippopotabus wrote: |
I use to have these same problems.... Wanna know the secret.....
Slide the door gently closed, you'll notice how the door is not completely sealed.
Grab outside slider handle and pull in an upward motion. This will bring everything together (aligning, locking and sealing) without having to slam the door and destoy tiny springs and sctuff.
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that does not work for later bays, as the mechanism is different. that method only works for busses up to and including 73 (i think. i know my 74 has the later style mechanism).
i took out the rear latch mechanism, cleaned the 30 years of gunk out of it, re-greased it. i also adjusted the tension cable that runs from the front latch to the rear latch. i also oiled the rear door pivot and put a new plastic bushing on it (the one that rides along the side of the bus on the track).
after doing all that, my door went from being barely openable and having to slam and hope it closed, to being able to be easily slid open and closed.
before. sticky, barely worked:
after. works smoothly.
p.s. way to dredge up a very old thread.
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thebucket: I invested in hoodride, now DBD won't return my call?
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Bay Window Steve
Samba Member
Joined: July 13, 2006
Posts: 280
Location: Van Alstyne, Texas
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 6:48 pm Post subject: |
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Mines like this:
Slam
Bounce open
Slam
Bounce open
Pull up handle
Slam
Bounce open
Swear
Shut slowly, then push in the rear
Wait
Tug on it
Shake head.
Count me in the StBDC
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'73 Transporter - Driver
'69 Deluxe
Member: WTKHABG
Original Air Cooler Member |
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NASkeet
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2006
Posts: 2958
Location: South Benfleet, Essex, UK
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| Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 7:48 am Post subject: |
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| Hippopotabus wrote: |
I use to have these same problems.... Wanna know the secret.....
Slide the door gently closed, you'll notice how the door is not completely sealed.
Grab outside slider handle and pull in an upward motion. This will bring everything together (aligning, locking and sealing) without having to slam the door and destoy tiny springs and sctuff.
And yes you should lube everything but try my time proven method. If it doesn't work check your cables in the door. |
I concur that slamming the sliding door is unnecessary, either from without or within. A supplementary, sliding-door, rear helper handle or home-made pull-close strap, is useful when closing the door from inside.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=295020
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Regards.
Nigel A. Skeet
Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.
Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper
Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)
http://www.vwt2oc.net |
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Hippopotabus
Samba Member
Joined: May 27, 2004
Posts: 1600
Location: Miwuk Village, CA
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| Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 12:22 pm Post subject: |
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Nigel
That is a slick design. PM if you can I'd like to find out where I might purchase one.
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Celer, Silens, Letalis
www.2dreconbn.net |
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Redd73
Samba Member
Joined: March 05, 2007
Posts: 836
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| Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 12:24 pm Post subject: |
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Another reason I love my 73.
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"...theres nowhere to go but everywhere." - Kerouac
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73 Westy 2000cc w/dual solex (engine code GE) + aftermarket AC |
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static
Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2002
Posts: 1831
Location: The High Desert
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| Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 12:33 pm Post subject: |
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Come on, Nigel. You need to make up a bunch of those inside-the-door-handles for the rest of us.
You can, of course, do this in all your spare time.
And think how much we would appreciate it! (PM sent) |
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mook
Samba Member
Joined: May 06, 2005
Posts: 553
Location: Bristol, England
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| Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 12:52 pm Post subject: |
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erm... have you tied tightening up the cable in the door that works the latch?
my one went loose, and a few turns of the tightener and it was working a dream.
20 min job.
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'73 transporter, Riviera Top, Later westy interior. |
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aggri1
Samba Member
Joined: February 17, 2006
Posts: 380
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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| Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 2:12 pm Post subject: |
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Hi, my name's Aurel and I slam the door. 
I have trouble getting the rear latch locked, and I can't see how to adjust it so that it latches more easily. I think it has to do with the fact that the rear of the door actually slopes downwards a little (ie - the top (or bottom) of the door is not perfectly parallel with the bus). How on earth do I raise the rear of the door (about 3-4mm is needed!)?
As it is, I always have to shut the door by pushing from the back of it (usually on the beltline), forwards and then inwards, unless I want to slam the crap out of it.
I'll check the Haynes manual I have, but it is pretty vague on 'body' stuff if I recall correctly.
Cheers, A. |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51124
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 2:43 pm Post subject: |
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If the body lines and gaps are good when it's closed check that your rear upper carrier roller isn't split or splitting, after that it's the bolts in Nigels pic that he attached the pull handle to (he's subbed screws), the holes are oblong and the thing they bolt into inside needs to move down in the door (buddy lifts door while you do this). May need to back off the third one a bit further forward too.
If the body lines and gaps are off the striker needs to move.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
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fusername
Samba Member
Joined: March 15, 2006
Posts: 2897
Location: Boston MA
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| Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:33 pm Post subject: |
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can the early style latch mechanism be put in a new bay? I ask because i have a 77 and there is a 69 in a lot down the street, sliding door is already resting inside the car, easy grab if i can do the transplant.
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Need something custom bent up? shoot me an email, maybe we can make it work!
FORSALE: Thrust cut T4 and 1.9 main bearings
| obnoxiousblue wrote: |
| Maybe Ben Pon's ghost comes and vomits NOS stampings for your bus, but not mine! |
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aggri1
Samba Member
Joined: February 17, 2006
Posts: 380
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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| Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 4:27 pm Post subject: |
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| fusername wrote: |
| can the early style latch mechanism be put in a new bay? I ask because i have a 77 and there is a 69 in a lot down the street, sliding door is already resting inside the car, easy grab if i can do the transplant. |
Nah, there are different bits. Can't remember what exactly. One latches on the front of the door, the other at the rear or something. I could check tonight, I have one of each.
Thanks for the info busdaddy. I'll look into it!
Cheers, A. |
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NASkeet
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2006
Posts: 2958
Location: South Benfleet, Essex, UK
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| Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 6:27 am Post subject: |
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| Hippopotabus wrote: |
Nigel
That is a slick design. PM if you can I'd like to find out where I might purchase one. |
| static wrote: |
Come on, Nigel. You need to make up a bunch of those inside-the-door-handles for the rest of us.
You can, of course, do this in all your spare time.
And think how much we would appreciate it! (PM sent) |
I actually made the sliding-door, pull-close handle myself, using off-cuts of 25 mm (i.e. 1 inch) wide nylon webbing strap and thin-gauge aluminium alloy sheet, as documented in the bi-monthly magazine, of the British, Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club and the Technical Information Sheets.
Nigel Skeet, "Sliding Door Pull-Close Strap", Transporter Talk, Issue 24, August 1996, pp7~8.
Nigel Skeet, "Silent Sliding Doors", Technical Information Sheet No. 66, p4, VW Type 2 Owners' Club, 1998
I could certainly make up some more, but you would need to bend the aluminium tensioning strip, to the convex curve of the sliding door.
Making payments by PayPal, for modest sums of money, is hardly worth the effort, but I am always open to barter, for some second-hand, small, light-weight, North American specification parts. 
_________________
Regards.
Nigel A. Skeet
Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.
Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper
Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)
http://www.vwt2oc.net |
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NASkeet
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2006
Posts: 2958
Location: South Benfleet, Essex, UK
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| Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 9:36 am Post subject: Re: Do You Have to Slam Your Sliding Door? |
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You might also wish to read old & new posts of mine and other contributors, to this topic thread on the Australian Kombi Club forum:
Home Forums > Help and Assistance > 'How To' & 'Handy Hints' > Easier sliding-door opening & closure, for 1968~79 VW Type 2s
http://forums.kombiclub.com/threads/easier-sliding...-2s.35354/
_________________
Regards.
Nigel A. Skeet
Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.
Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper
Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)
http://www.vwt2oc.net
Last edited by NASkeet on Tue Feb 23, 2016 9:00 am; edited 1 time in total |
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SGKent 
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 41031
Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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| Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 9:49 am Post subject: Re: Do You Have to Slam Your Sliding Door? |
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once everything is cleaned up and regreased, including replacing the nylon slider, Bentley has an excellent write up on adjusting both sytles. Both of my buses closed like a dream when done being cleaned and adjusted. When you wash the bus be sure to get any sand and dirt of the rail the nylon rides on, and regrease the rail once in awhile. Also keep the lower track clean of sand, mud and debris.
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khalimadeath
Samba Member
Joined: June 24, 2014
Posts: 768
Location: Reno, NV
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| Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 10:20 am Post subject: |
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| Hippopotabus wrote: |
I use to have these same problems.... Wanna know the secret.....
Slide the door gently closed, you'll notice how the door is not completely sealed.
Grab outside slider handle and pull in an upward motion. This will bring everything together (aligning, locking and sealing) without having to slam the door and destoy tiny springs and sctuff.
And yes you should lube everything but try my time proven method. If it doesn't work check your cables in the door. |
Thats what I do, Although it doesnt always slide open as easily. Time for a clean and lube session. |
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MrVWGuy
Samba Member
Joined: February 21, 2010
Posts: 643
Location: North of Pittsburgh PA
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| Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 10:51 am Post subject: Re: Do You Have to Slam Your Sliding Door? |
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This is an excellent resource for the bay sliding door:
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/SlidingDoor.html
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'62 Beetle
'68 Kombi
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 11:59 pm Post subject: Re: Do You Have to Slam Your Sliding Door? |
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| NASkeet wrote: |
You might also wish to read old & new posts of mine and other contributors, to this topic thread on the Australian Kombi Club forum:
HomeForums > Help and Assistance > 'How To' & 'Handy Hints' >
Easier sliding-door opening & closure, for 1968~79 VW Type 2s
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Why don't we utilize Red for safety and hazard warnings.
| Tcash wrote: |
Advisory Colors
Red = Death dismemberment and loss of sight, Severe damage will occur
Orange = High risk of damage
Yellow = Can't be seen
Blue = Editing
Green = Advisory
Grey = Questions
Sincerely
Tcash |
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Tom Powell
Samba Member
Joined: December 01, 2005
Posts: 4855
Location: Kaneohe
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| Posted: Tue Feb 23, 2016 12:26 am Post subject: Re: Do You Have to Slam Your Sliding Door? |
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| MrBreeze wrote: |
| My problem is the opposite. Mine closes fine, but I need to pull out on the rear to open it. It won't pop open just just lifting the handle, ... |
My outside sliding door assist.
| NASkeet wrote: |
...
I concur that slamming the sliding door is unnecessary, either from without or within. A supplementary, sliding-door, rear helper handle or home-made pull-close strap, is useful when closing the door from inside. ... |
My inside sliding door assist.
Aloha
tp |
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NASkeet
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2006
Posts: 2958
Location: South Benfleet, Essex, UK
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| Posted: Tue Feb 23, 2016 9:08 am Post subject: Re: Do You Have to Slam Your Sliding Door? |
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I couldn't agree more!
My sliding-door gear has always functioned perfectly without any problems, but an interior pull-close strap or handle is still extremely useful; especially on a campervan whose sliding-door lock-handle, is not easily accessible, owing to obstruction by furniture!
| Tcash wrote: |
| NASkeet wrote: |
You might also wish to read old & new posts of mine and other contributors, to this topic thread on the Australian Kombi Club forum:
HomeForums > Help and Assistance > 'How To' & 'Handy Hints' >
Easier sliding-door opening & closure, for 1968~79 VW Type 2s
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Why don't we utilize Red for safety and hazard warnings.
| Tcash wrote: |
Advisory Colors
Red = Death dismemberment and loss of sight, Severe damage will occur
Orange = High risk of damage
Yellow = Can't be seen
Blue = Editing
Green = Advisory
Grey = Questions
Sincerely
Tcash |
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I like any colours which enable one to draw attention to particular sections and separate different categories of information. I don't use yellow or white, because they are difficult or impossible to see against a white background.
However, I have a yellow car (1974 Triumph Toledo 1300 - an excellent car which was never sold in the USA); partly because I adore yellow and because it's the most visible under the majority of day-time & night-time driving conditions.
_________________
Regards.
Nigel A. Skeet
Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.
Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper
Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)
http://www.vwt2oc.net |
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