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Intake Runner (air-cooled)
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wolfej1
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:03 am    Post subject: Intake Runner (air-cooled) Reply with quote

On air cooled engine - do I need to pull the engine to replace the intake runner?
thanks
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borninabus
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

no.

you should do new sleeves & injector seals while you're there.
and you will need a new phenolic spacer too.
that's all assuming that you are still fuel injected.
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wolfej1
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

borninabus wrote:
no.

you should do new sleeves & injector seals while you're there.
and you will need a new phenolic spacer too.
that's all assuming that you are still fuel injected.


Is the phenolic spacer a factory VW part, or is it an aftermarket part used in lieu of a metal type gasket.

I tightened the bolts down pretty good and the leak is still there albeit not quite so bad - so it has to come off and be replaced.

thx
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Injector seals http://www.busdepot.com/311198261a

Intake Runners http://www.busdepot.com/039133241

Try putting a dusting of wheel bearing grease or hylomar or Locktite 565 on the intake phoenalitic gasket and tighten evenly starting from the inside studs to the outside. I can't find a part number for the new ones (although I have a pair on my bench at home right now).

Work from the left side to the right side.
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wolfej1
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice. I am glad I found that leak it was driving me crazy for the past few years......I hope i did not do any damage by tightening things up like i did.
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wolfej1
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
Injector seals http://www.busdepot.com/311198261a

Intake Runners http://www.busdepot.com/039133241

Try putting a dusting of wheel bearing grease or hylomar or Locktite 565 on the intake phoenalitic gasket and tighten evenly starting from the inside studs to the outside. I can't find a part number for the new ones (although I have a pair on my bench at home right now).

Work from the left side to the right side.


Do i put the dusting of wheel bearing grease on both sides of the gasket?

thanks
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T3 Pilot
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to be clear, you can reuse the spacer if it is not cracked but you need to renew the paper gasket on both sides of the plastic spacer.

Good news is you can just trace and cut new ones on your workbench....... I used an old Cheerios box on the last set I redid. A light smear of grease is a good suggestion.

Good Luck.
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wolfej1
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have a new one that has the paper gaskets on it. Do i put the smear of grease on both of the paper gaskets - on the sides that contacting the metal? In essence, like a sealer on both sides?

Actually i was thinking of putting a light coat of grease on the head and on the intake pipe, setting the spacer into place, putting the runner back on and tightening up to 11 ft lbs....

Is that ok

I am probably making this into more than it is.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That will be fine.
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wolfej1
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
That will be fine.


thanks for the reply Smile
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wolfej1
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
That will be fine.


thanks for the reply Smile
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wolfej1
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
That will be fine.


thanks for the reply Smile
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wolfej1
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replaced the spacer/gaskets and used hylomar on the head and runner surfaces. What a difference in how the engine is running - much smoother and seems to have a bit more power especially in 4th gear. Idle is now the same regardless of whether the engine is cold or hot - prior to this the idle would increase as the engine got hot.

When refueling I always fill until the nozzle clicks and then thats all the fuel that goes in. Prior to the fix I would get about 17 miles on the odometer before the fuel gauge needle would move off of the "Full" line. This time I got 35 miles before that happened. No kidding. I have been running that engine into the ground - I am glad I finally figured that out.

I am also wondering if that would be the cause of my bad compression on the number 1 cylinder - air getting past that gasket.

Moral of the story...if you are having idling issues check those pesky intake runner spacer/gaskets...

Regardless it is good to do something that actually worked. Very Happy
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