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Dual Brake MC Upgrade Issue
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fotoroadie
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 3:58 pm    Post subject: Dual Brake MC Upgrade Issue Reply with quote

I'm in a state of confusion. I'm in the middle of a master cylinder upgrade to my '65 Bus.
'm getting different advice from just about everyone i contact.
I followed a tutorial that had me acquire a '72-'79 dual MC and a Volvo reservoir & had me make a spacer and to use longer bolt/nuts, all of which i did.
My MC is a Remanufactured Ate - the box is marked:
Wagner Brake Products
Import Master Cylinder R96379 and other numbers on the label like
24D2 DCB2115 & 11-1560
& a separate sticker Inspected by: HS
DCB2109 12836YR 1560
Don't really know if this is a MC for a '72-'79 or not, but have to assume it is.
My confusion lies in the fact that i've been instructed to run the front brake lines to the two rear ports and the rear line to the front drivers side port and the brake sensor to the pass. side front port.
Here's my question:
When i look down into the ports i see that the openings on the front two (closest to the plunger) are the same size, but when i inspect the two rear ports, the pass. side is the same as the fronts but the driver side is about half that size. ????
Why would i want the two front brakes fed by two different sized ports?
Also i'm told i cannot reconfigure and hook the front brakes to the front ports because this MC is designed for the front port to service the rear brakes.
Bottom line here i guess is why is there a port that's different from the other three?

confused but determined

bobby

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cru62
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I won't bother refering you to the vaunted "BENTLEY" manual as it does not include ANY information about the '67 only MC and brake lines. I'm sure it exists on this site somewhere, however.
In the meantime, I can say with almost unwavering conviction that the two front lines are fed from a brass "T" screwed to one of the crossmembers and fed by a single line from the MC. The rears are set up similarly with the "T" on the DS rear fork and splitting to each of the rear brakes.
I would imagine that this is why the ports are of differing diameters. My '67 MC has a sensor for the front and the rear portions of the MC. You may have to bend up your own hose to connect to the front brake "T". The lines from there to the wheelwells are available from WW but do require that you bend them to fit.
Good Luck!

Here is a pic I found in the Gallery-
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

It might clear up some of your confusion.
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Last edited by cru62 on Wed Jul 03, 2013 6:49 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://type2.com/library/brakes/dualmas.htm
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Culito
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didn't have to use the "T" for the fronts. I'll have to look and see how the lines are routed, but I think I just used the two front ports for the brakes and only used one switch.
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fotoroadie
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It seems you are saying that the fronts are fed from a T - and the rears are fed from a T - and that's why the ports are different. ? Why? And which should be the smaller and why.
Is it true that i cannot attach my front brakes to the front ports? And why?
Of course, a '65 does not have a T at the front, which means if i have to feed the frony brakes from the rear ports i will have a pretty major brake line project (at least for me) running hard lines and the T. That's not what I was led to believe.
Right now I have my front brake driver side attached to the front left side of the MC and the front brake pass. side attached to the front right side of the MC. I have the rear line attached to the rear pass. side and the sensor attached to the rear left (which is the port with the smaller dia. opening) as seen in my photo. This way I can use existing hard line configuration but I can't bring myself to try it out until I understand this more.
My logic said that since only one port was different it must be for the sensor. ???
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Split 66'
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did this conversion a while back. If I remember correctly, the smaller diameter fitting acted as a proportioning valve.

The front brakes are about 80% of your braking capacity, therefore you need the most pressure up front. If your rear brakes were to lock up as much or more than your front brakes, you would lose the rear end in a hard braking scenario. The smaller diameter fitting would control the flow, or pressure in that way.

If I am wrong, someone will be along shortly to let us know.

EDIT: I have mine setup like Culito, two separate front lines and no T up front, with only one stop switch.
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fotoroadie
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In Eric & Barb's tutorial they say to reroute the front brake line to the port at the 45 degree angle since, with a sensor there, you can't get your belly pan on. But doesn't this then defeat the purpose of the proportioning valve since it's the one on the driver's side rear, where they end up putting a sensor.
Which begs the question - if their setup works fine then why couldn't I leave my setup the way it is with the front attached to the front of the MC?
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Split 66'
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 11:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am not running a pedal pan on my '66, couldn't bring myself to cut the OG pan.

Here is how my DCMC is setup:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



This is the diagram I used:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I changed the stop switch to the other side, so I could use my existing hard lines.

I can't remember if I had two smaller diameter openings for the rear brake line, or just one. Either way, this configuration has worked for me for nearly two years now without issue. I definitely purchased a '72 Bus ATE DCMC though.

Hopefully someone can you give you better advice here, as mine is limited.
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Culito
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 12:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^ That's how I'm running mine. Easy-peasy.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 6:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fotoroadie wrote:
In Eric & Barb's tutorial they say to reroute the front brake line to the port at the 45 degree angle since, with a sensor there, you can't get your belly pan on. But doesn't this then defeat the purpose of the proportioning valve since it's the one on the driver's side rear, where they end up putting a sensor.
Which begs the question - if their setup works fine then why couldn't I leave my setup the way it is with the front attached to the front of the MC?


The smaller hole is not going to act as a proportioning valve. At most it will take a tiny bit longer for fluid to pass thru it, but it will not reduce brake pressure going thru the system.

Later buses with disc brakes required a proportioning valve or the rear drum brakes would lock up first and result with the bus doing a sudden 180 degree turn.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-types/master-brake2.htm

The later front disc brakes required more fluid moved to function. Due to two wheel cylinders used in the earlier buses per front wheel for a total of four these require more fluid also. VW designed the later bus dual master cylinders with this in mind.
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fotoroadie
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 6:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, still I am unclear.
Split66, the way you have it configured would have the proportioning valve port (rear driver side on the MC) servicing the driver side front brake. If this does not create different pressure rates to the front brakes, then why would they have it there in the first place and if it makes no difference can I leave my setup (fronts to front set of ports) the way it is now.
Again, something here I'm not understanding.
Easy-peasy or not you're not using it as it appears it was designed for.
????
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fotoroadie
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 6:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb, again if it makes no difference why would your tutorial have me reconfigure my system with lines & a T when I could simply attach it the way I did with no reconfiguration.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fotoroadie wrote:
Eric&Barb, again if it makes no difference why would your tutorial have me reconfigure my system with lines & a T when I could simply attach it the way I did with no reconfiguration.


VW did it that way to allow the use of a second brake sender. That way in the event the other circuit blows out you still have functioning brake lights as you limp home/repair shop/etc. and not get rear ended.

Additionally with the later three prong senders, one can fabricate up a wiring harness for brake circuit failure warning light to function just like the post-1967 buses. This is very helpful if you have a driver that is not observant enough to notice a sudden drop of the brake pedal.

Adding a short brake line form a junk yard car and brass T fitting from the rear of any VW made since the early 1950s is quite easy.

Add a little anti-seize to the brake line nut threads, and a little on the lines where those nuts cover will help greatly to keep those from rusting up. Just make sure the tip of the lines are wiped clean to keep any AS out of the brake system.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fotoroadie wrote:
Well, still I am unclear.
Split66, the way you have it configured would have the proportioning valve port (rear driver side on the MC) servicing the driver side front brake. If this does not create different pressure rates to the front brakes, then why would they have it there in the first place and if it makes no difference can I leave my setup (fronts to front set of ports) the way it is now.
Again, something here I'm not understanding.
Easy-peasy or not you're not using it as it appears it was designed for.
????


I think your confusion is in the terms "front and rear ports." Your instructions tell you to connect the front brake lines to the rear ports of the mc--what that means is connect the lines to the end of the mc that is furthest to the rear of the bus, when installed, as those are actually the front ports of the mc--remember, the mc on a split bus is mounted backwards. In the pic posted by Split66, the front lines are connected to the front ports of the mc but the front ports are to the rear of the bus.
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fotoroadie
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is starting to make me crazy!

Front/Back Back/Front has no bearing on my basic question.
If the small hole proportioning valve is not used as designed (Split66 has his rigged where it only serves the driver side brake & Eric&Barb has theirs blocked with a sensor ) my logic says that the pressure inside the MC itself would be even & consistent, sooooo, can I run my front lines to the ports closest to the pushrod? Eliminating my need to reconfigure.
I don't know how to ask this question any other way.

yikes!
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Again, there is no proportioning valve in the MC.

Again, VW designed the front circuit for more brake fluid to be pushed to the front cylinders. The rear half of the MC is not designed for dual cylinders in each front drum or stock front disc brakes.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fotoroadie wrote:
This is starting to make me crazy!

Front/Back Back/Front has no bearing on my basic question.
If the small hole proportioning valve is not used as designed (Split66 has his rigged where it only serves the driver side brake & Eric&Barb has theirs blocked with a sensor ) my logic says that the pressure inside the MC itself would be even & consistent, sooooo, can I run my front lines to the ports closest to the pushrod? Eliminating my need to reconfigure.
I don't know how to ask this question any other way.

yikes!


Pressure is not the only factor at issue with brakes. VOLUME is another very important part of the the equation. Especially with the front brakes which can influence the speed and trajectory of your vehicle. As an illustration, clamp a visegrip on one of the soft hoses of your front brakes. Not enough to completely block the flow. Just reduce the area of the opening by, say, 50%. Now, go for a drive. I would wager that for the majority of your stopping situations everything would be fine. The flow of brake fluid would be able to balance itself adequately and you would stop well and straight. Now, hit the expressway and wind it up to, say, 65 mph. Imagine a deer or cross trafffic or someone in front of you with their front brakes connected in the proper manner making a full-on panic stop. One of the front wheel cylinders is going to get a good shot of brake fluid when you try to push the brake pedal through the front floor. With the other side restricted there will be a slight lag in the actuation of the brakes. They will not be balaced right-to-left. I hope your steering reflexes are up to par because you are so going to need them as the bus darts alarmingly to the side with the brake shoes that have locked onto the drum.

You would be well to listen to what Eric&Barb are telling you. There is a reason for everything in this case. There are several people giving you advise that could kill someone.

If nothing else, common sense should tell you that the reason the two ports in the MC are different diameters is that they have different functions. Don't listen to the people who tell you not to worry about it because they have done what you want to do with no adverse affects.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fotoroadie wrote:
can I run my front lines to the ports closest to the pushrod?


You can but it won't work right. The guts of the M/C are designed such that the part near the pushrod is what pumps fluid to the back brakes. This may see moot but since it's a piggyback system designed for safety it has some features that you will defeat if you plug into that half of the system. In the event of a leak you could end up with your front brakes locked up and sliding out of control into head on traffic or no brakes at all.

fotoroadie wrote:
my logic says that the pressure inside the MC itself would be even & consistent


It is only even and consistent if both back brakes (which only have one small slave cylinder each) are in the correct half of the M/C and the two front brakes (which have 2 large cylinders per wheel each) are in their correct half of the M/C and there are no leaks.

fotoroadie wrote:
This is starting to make me crazy! yikes!


If you can see the Bentley Bus manual for 1964 to 1967 it shows the dual master cylinder operating in a kind of cartoonish way that helps describe the system although it doesn't show the physics and math used to calculate the forces and design.

Hope this helps.

Edit: Just noticed cru62 posted basically the same thing while I was typing.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as proportioning valves, GM vehicles with proportioning valves it is only a safety device by shutting off fluid to line that has massive leak and turns light on on dash so besides brakes feeling different a light comes on as well. It plays no factor in proportioning or balancing anything on a regular braking situation.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FlatfourFrenchy wrote:
As far as proportioning valves, GM vehicles with proportioning valves it is only a safety device by shutting off fluid to line that has massive leak and turns light on on dash so besides brakes feeling different a light comes on as well. It plays no factor in proportioning or balancing anything on a regular braking situation.


Hmm, doubt that. See this GM forum link:

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f14/proportioning-valve-how-it-works-370414/

Think you are confusing the differential valve and that only lights up the warning light that one circuit has gone bad.


Anyway we are focusing on VW here not GM products..... Wink
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