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Timing question about sp 1500 engine
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Herrbern
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 1:19 pm    Post subject: Timing question about sp 1500 engine Reply with quote

Hi,

On my 1500cc sp engine of my 67 vert, I have the static timing set at 7.5° btc, like in the owner manual of the car.
Now, when I set the idle at 850 rpm and when I check the timing with the timing light, the timing is 10° btc!!
With the engine idling, when I remove the depression tube, timing gets back to 7.5° btc.
My conclusion is that the depression is working even at idle. I thought that the depression was only working above 1000 rpm. Or am I wrong ? Is it normal for my car what I see with the timing?
All parts are genuine on the car.

Carb : Solex 30 PICT
Distributor 205k

What is wrong?

Thanks,

Bernard
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is not unusual for there to be some vacuum signal present even at idle on the PICT, PICT-1 and PICT-2 carbs. It was only after the PICT-3s where the throttle is fully shut for idle that you get a zero vacuum signal at idle. I'd not worry about it, just do like you did, check that idle timing with the vacuum line unhooked.

The EMPI 30PICT-1 clones, at least when they first came out, were particularly bad about too much vacuum at lower speeds due to the placement of the lower vacuum drilling being slightly off. I talked about that in depth here:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=278191

-Andy
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gt1953
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You did good, what is the timing at say 2500 to 3000 RPM?
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gt1953 wrote:
You did good, what is the timing at say 2500 to 3000 RPM?


The 205k is a vacuum advance only distributor. What the timing is at higher RPM is irrelevant. The amount of the advance will vary depending on the engine load and throttle position. The distributor will likely have more advance at lower engine speeds than you would at wide open throttle.
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Herrbern
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 9:56 am    Post subject: Re: Timing question about sp 1500 engine Reply with quote

I have a new issue with the 205K.
I habe replaced the points with an Ignitor II and when I set the timing with strobo, I have 7.5 BTDC. When I connect the hose again, I have way too much advance. I am over 10 BTDC. So I retarded the ignition with the hose on at 10 BTDC at 900rpm. But is is so strange that the timing changed so much.
Could it be the carb ? I am still running the original Solex 30 PICT-1. Or is this due to the electronic ignition ?

Anyone has ever experienced that ?
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Towel Rail
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 3:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Timing question about sp 1500 engine Reply with quote

Herrbern wrote:
I have a new issue with the 205K.
I habe replaced the points with an Ignitor II and when I set the timing with strobo, I have 7.5 BTDC. When I connect the hose again, I have way too much advance. I am over 10 BTDC. So I retarded the ignition with the hose on at 10 BTDC at 900rpm. But is is so strange that the timing changed so much.
Could it be the carb ? I am still running the original Solex 30 PICT-1. Or is this due to the electronic ignition ?

Anyone has ever experienced that ?


You need to follow the instructions. The 205K is timed either statically, or running with the vacuum hose disconnected and the port on the carburetor plugged. As Andy posted, it's completely normal for the engine to have a little more than 7.5° advance when idling with the vacuum hose hooked up.

I don't think the electronic ignition has anything to do with it. Smile

That said, I have been curious about trying a 205M or 205T on my '67 if one ever fell into my lap. It's another vacuum-only distributor with more total advance at the same amount of vacuum, so it's static/idle timed at 0° instead of 7.5°. Less advance at idle burns a little cleaner.
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Herrbern
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 10:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Timing question about sp 1500 engine Reply with quote

Towel Rail wrote:
Herrbern wrote:
I have a new issue with the 205K.
I habe replaced the points with an Ignitor II and when I set the timing with strobo, I have 7.5 BTDC. When I connect the hose again, I have way too much advance. I am over 10 BTDC. So I retarded the ignition with the hose on at 10 BTDC at 900rpm. But is is so strange that the timing changed so much.
Could it be the carb ? I am still running the original Solex 30 PICT-1. Or is this due to the electronic ignition ?

Anyone has ever experienced that ?


You need to follow the instructions. The 205K is timed either statically, or running with the vacuum hose disconnected and the port on the carburetor plugged. As Andy posted, it's completely normal for the engine to have a little more than 7.5° advance when idling with the vacuum hose hooked up.

I don't think the electronic ignition has anything to do with it. Smile

That said, I have been curious about trying a 205M or 205T on my '67 if one ever fell into my lap. It's another vacuum-only distributor with more total advance at the same amount of vacuum, so it's static/idle timed at 0° instead of 7.5°. Less advance at idle burns a little cleaner.


Could it be the idle circuit that is clogged ? Because lately, the car had stalling problems at the trafic light and I removed the idle jet, cleaned it and corrected the rpm with the idle fast screw. But the srew is almost in and the pring fully compressed. Maybe I have a too big depression in the carb causing the advance capsule to pull too much on the dizzy.... I will check that;
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 3:40 am    Post subject: Re: Timing question about sp 1500 engine Reply with quote

How is the throttle shaft play? If you’re having to have the idle fast screw that far in it sounds like you’re having to overcome a vacuum leak.
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Herrbern
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 10:39 am    Post subject: Re: Timing question about sp 1500 engine Reply with quote

Sharp64 wrote:
How is the throttle shaft play? If you’re having to have the idle fast screw that far in it sounds like you’re having to overcome a vacuum leak.


I will check that this weekend, but the fast idle cam screw is all the way in and is compressing the spring. I can’t get the idle over the 850 RPM.
But I think you may be right. I will let you know.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 10:43 am    Post subject: Re: Timing question about sp 1500 engine Reply with quote

If the engine idles happily at less than 850 RPM, I'd let it. Smile
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 11:06 am    Post subject: Re: Timing question about sp 1500 engine Reply with quote

Towel Rail wrote:
If the engine idles happily at less than 850 RPM, I'd let it. Smile


Yes, with the vacuum advance starting by 850, I'd tune it well so it is smooth, and set idle more like 750, as long as you don't see an oil or gen light at that speed.
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Slow 1200
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2018 4:04 am    Post subject: Re: Timing question about sp 1500 engine Reply with quote

are you running on 4 cylinders at idle? sounds like the idle speed screw needs to be all the way in to compensate for some other issue, the throttle plate is so open that you are getting vacuum

besides that, those vacuum only distributor end up being very sloppy and overadvancing at idle
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Herrbern
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2018 10:20 am    Post subject: Re: Timing question about sp 1500 engine Reply with quote

Slow 1200 wrote:
are you running on 4 cylinders at idle? sounds like the idle speed screw needs to be all the way in to compensate for some other issue, the throttle plate is so open that you are getting vacuum

besides that, those vacuum only distributor end up being very sloppy and overadvancing at idle


Well, an update.
I do run on 4 cylinders. I have changed the carb this morning with an old 30 PICT 1 and the issue is gone. So I think the carb I had had a leak in the shaft or a problem with the idle passage.
I think I will leave the old carb I had stored on the car but the problem with this one is that is is leaking gas between the body and the upper cover and around the accelerator shaft. The top gasket is not keeping it from leaking after the engine is shut off. I had replaced the original parts with new aftermarket repair kit and it didn’t help.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2018 11:07 am    Post subject: Re: Timing question about sp 1500 engine Reply with quote

Herrbern wrote:
the problem with this one is that is is leaking gas

Not good; I wouldn't use that one either !!
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2018 11:09 am    Post subject: Re: Timing question about sp 1500 engine Reply with quote

Check to make sure the mating surfaces are flat and the top isn’t warped. Also, check your float level. Did you put the correct 1mm ( I believe) washed between the float valve and top? If it sits too high it can allow the valve to stay open and overflow the bowl. Use the old needle valve if you have it instead of the new one.

I would HIGHLY recommend getting a sonic cleaner for the carb. Even after soaking in carb cleaner for hours you’d be amazed of the crap that will still come out. Also blow all the passages out with air after.
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Herrbern
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2018 11:13 am    Post subject: Re: Timing question about sp 1500 engine Reply with quote

Sharp64 wrote:
Check to make sure the mating surfaces are flat and the top isn’t warped. Also, check your float level. Did you put the correct 1mm ( I believe) washed between the float valve and top? If it sits too high it can allow the valve to stay open and overflow the bowl. Use the old needle valve if you have it instead of the new one.

I would HIGHLY recommend getting a sonic cleaner for the carb. Even after soaking in carb cleaner for hours you’d be amazed of the crap that will still come out. Also blow all the passages out with air after.

I will clean the carb that is pulling too much advance with a sonic cleaner this weekend. The car will not be used until I find the right solution. I will give you an update.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2018 11:16 am    Post subject: Re: Timing question about sp 1500 engine Reply with quote

Herrbern wrote:
Sharp64 wrote:
Check to make sure the mating surfaces are flat and the top isn’t warped. Also, check your float level. Did you put the correct 1mm ( I believe) washed between the float valve and top? If it sits too high it can allow the valve to stay open and overflow the bowl. Use the old needle valve if you have it instead of the new one.

I would HIGHLY recommend getting a sonic cleaner for the carb. Even after soaking in carb cleaner for hours you’d be amazed of the crap that will still come out. Also blow all the passages out with air after.

I will clean the carb that is pulling too much advance with a sonic cleaner this weekend. The car will not be used until I find the right solution. I will give you an update.


If the carb you had on at the beginning of this indeed has a vacuum leak, you'll be pulling your hair out trying to get it to run properly. You may want to contact Tim and Volksbitz and see if he has or can rebuild your carb. Well worth the investment.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2018 11:22 am    Post subject: Re: Timing question about sp 1500 engine Reply with quote

If the spare/leaky carb top is warped and can't be made to seal, a possible solution would be to swap the top over from your other carb.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 1:38 am    Post subject: Re: Timing question about sp 1500 engine Reply with quote

Well, I have too much play on the spare carb. The bushings are worn out. I will remove them and rebush with brass. The carb on the car has also too much play and the idle is clogged because compressed air is not going thru. I will clean both carbs and redo them completely.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 10:58 am    Post subject: Re: Timing question about sp 1500 engine Reply with quote

Towel Rail wrote:
That said, I have been curious about trying a 205M or 205T on my '67 if one ever fell into my lap. It's another vacuum-only distributor with more total advance at the same amount of vacuum, so it's static/idle timed at 0° instead of 7.5°. Less advance at idle burns a little cleaner.


I used to have a 205T paired with the Solex 30 PICT-1 on my 67. The only problem I couldn't get rid of was the popping/backfiring out the exhaust when engine braking. It could've been partially because I have cheap headers with a "quiet pack" muffler. But with the same headers and muffler, the 205K doesn't backfire/pop when engine braking.
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