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tim3
Samba Member
Joined: February 01, 2004
Posts: 547
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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 Posted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 7:46 pm Post subject: Turn Signal Switch shorted & melted high beam trigger |
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So getting familiar with this new squareback i just bought and the PO taped the highbeam switch. I came down to my car and the highbeams were on but the dash knob was not out.. so i touched the highbeam switch and it was burning hot.. i pulled the tape off and pulled it apart.. it melted the button for the highbeams and in turn blew a fuse.. now my horn only works for a few weak beeps before it blows new fuses.. I think i can hear it shorting in the signal switch?? anyways I dont think this is something I can fix easily by taking it apart as i am pretty sure it melted stuff inside the turn signal switch assembly.. my question is if i was to find a replacement for my 1966 squareback can i use any year switch up to 1969 or do i have to find a specific range like 1964-67?
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ataraxia
Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2010
Posts: 4504
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 4:14 am Post subject: Re: Turn Signal Switch shorted & melted high beam trigge |
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| tim3 wrote: |
| So getting familiar with this new squareback i just bought and the PO taped the highbeam switch. I came down to my car and the highbeams were on but the dash knob was not out.. so i touched the highbeam switch and it was burning hot.. i pulled the tape off and pulled it apart.. it melted the button for the highbeams and in turn blew a fuse.. now my horn only works for a few weak beeps before it blows new fuses.. I think i can hear it shorting in the signal switch?? anyways I dont think this is something I can fix easily by taking it apart as i am pretty sure it melted stuff inside the turn signal switch assembly.. my question is if i was to find a replacement for my 1966 squareback can i use any year switch up to 1969 or do i have to find a specific range like 1964-67? |
If your car is wired correctly, I don't see how it's possible to melt the button for the high beams as it's at the end of your turn signal arm.
Check the voltage of the relay vs. voltage of your car (battery, generator, regulator) to make sure you don't just have the wrong relay. People do all kinds of wacky shit when they're in a hurry or don't want to spend money.
There also isn't much in the actual housing with regard to melting/shorting unless you have a broken wire. If you pull the steering wheel off and remove the clip, you should be able to see the inside of the turn signal arm and the contact plate.
If there are no broken wires, you are in good shape unless the ignition has also shorted out. These early ignition column housings are very tight and if someone who doesn't know what they're doing tries to take it apart/put it back together-it's possible to break a wire or lose a connection.
I'd suggest you drop the entire column and check it over to make sure the wiring is in good shape-it'll save you some work later. Look at the contact plate where the wires are soldered to the spades-if it looks messy it means that someone has taken it apart and you should inspect/test further.
The columns/ignitions are only up to 1967. They changed in 1968 (if you're going to repair it correctly). You can find ignitions but they won't be cheap (~$200+). |
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tim3
Samba Member
Joined: February 01, 2004
Posts: 547
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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| Posted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 7:26 am Post subject: |
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so your saying i should check the hand dimmer relay and make sure its 12v now.. got it.. and i did find the black wire on the ignition switch has broken off which i am sure might be the root of the issue. I searched the forum on how to remove the ignition switch but i can seem to find any thing the walks you through it.. I'd like to get the switch out so i can re attach the black wire..
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ataraxia
Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2010
Posts: 4504
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:07 am Post subject: |
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| tim3 wrote: |
| so your saying i should check the hand dimmer relay and make sure its 12v now.. got it.. and i did find the black wire on the ignition switch has broken off which i am sure might be the root of the issue. I searched the forum on how to remove the ignition switch but i can seem to find any thing the walks you through it.. I'd like to get the switch out so i can re attach the black wire.. |
The black wire is likely your problem.
If the wire broke at the ignition and you're good at soldering, you can solder it back on without removing the ignition...but you have to be careful because bakelite melts easily, not to mention that you can cook the internals with too much heat (the little bakelite piece inside).
If not, you're going to need to desolder the applicable connections shown below to remove the ignition (IIRC, it's the red one on the left side):
Assuming you've removed the ignition block (one flat head screw holding the cylinder in place-keeps it from rotating), turn the key to 'unlock' the cylinder.
Once you've separated them from the solder connection, you'll have to very gently push the ignition from the back (where the wires are connected) while supporting the bakelite piece/wires AND pulling the wires through from the housing until it's free.
Make sure you do this slowly and support the bakelite piece-(if it breaks you'll see two super small springs and a ball bearing or two, along with a small triangular shaped bakelite piece that will go flying across the room).
Last edited by ataraxia on Mon Jul 08, 2013 7:09 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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rustyfastback
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Joined: July 31, 2002
Posts: 839
Location: Georgia
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| Posted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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| If you have a euro spec car you can tap the dimmer switch to flash the headlights with out the headlight switch turned on. I would not think that a 6 volt relay in a 12 volt car would make that switch melt, but I am sure the relay would be super hot. I am sure that dimmer switch would get hot if it for some reason the contacts got stuck & you have a euro spec car (you can hold the dimmer switch to keep the headlights on with the switch off). Also, keep in mind the column is not supposed to be grounded, it has rubber isolators & plastic bushings the keep from grounding to the body. I suspect someone did not replace all the body isolators to keep the column from grounding out to the body. |
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tim3
Samba Member
Joined: February 01, 2004
Posts: 547
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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| Posted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 6:01 pm Post subject: |
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the speedo is in Kilometers so maybe it is euro spec because i could turn the beams on with the switch with out the lights on.. good to know im going to check it out tonight
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tim3
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Joined: February 01, 2004
Posts: 547
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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| Posted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 10:45 am Post subject: |
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definitely 6v everything under the dash.. WTF!!! no wonder some of the bulbs in the dash dont work..
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 7:26 pm Post subject: Re: Turn Signal Switch shorted & melted high beam trigge |
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| tim3 wrote: |
| So getting familiar with this new squareback i just bought and the PO taped the highbeam switch. I came down to my car and the highbeams were on but the dash knob was not out.. so i touched the highbeam switch and it was burning hot.. i pulled the tape off and pulled it apart.. it melted the button for the highbeams and in turn blew a fuse.. n my question is if i was to find a replacement for my 1966 squareback can i use any year switch up to 1969 or do i have to find a specific range like 1964-67? |
Something is wired up wrong then. I only say that, as the headlight dimmer switch is ONLY switching ground. What I mean by that, is 1 wire goes directly to ground, and the other wire to the relay that trips the inside of the relay. It does so by energizing the round leg. Those wires to the switch should never have 6 volts + or 12volts + on them at ANY time.
You can use 61 to 67 parts, or bug, bus, or even Ghia parts to repair your turn signal assembly. Ignition parts are type 3 only, and from 61 to 67 only.
And a 6 volt relay won't handle the 12 volts as well as Supa says it will. Replace it with a 311 908 583A relay, that is commonly used on a later 12 volt type 3 and some buses, bugs and ghias. This is what pisses me off when people do a half arse 12 volt conversion, they don't swap all of it over.  You've probably got some blown 6 volt bulbs in the car too. 
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71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
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