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otiswesty
Samba Member
Joined: November 21, 2006
Posts: 1730
Location: Portland
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 Posted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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I really liked the bamboo yellow but the Titan Red looks pretty awesome Seth!
OT: Shaun's van is looking pretty sharp too. I guess all the RHD evidence is gone now. I hope the hot dog cart doesn't scuff it up. 
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1978 Sage Green P22 Westfalia
1989 T3 Syncro Single cab
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insyncro
Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 6:54 pm Post subject: |
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Adhesion issues will present themselves with waxes and solvents for sure.
The best part about Seth's experience shows how well the original waxes stay put.
The Wurth product is not made by POR15, I asked my Rep.
All rust encapsulator paints are for rusted areas and are not to be used to coat areas that are not rusted.
Aqueous cleaners and decreases work well and using an aqueous neutralizer before the encapsulator is key, my opinion.
A product like Ospho, followed by neutralizing its action with water or my choice steam made from distilled water is how I have had excellent results with all of the rust coatings I use.
The underside of the vans really do not need paint, my opinion, multiple layers of waxes and protectant sprays are the way to go.
The newest addition to my tool assortment is a Hotsy hot water pressure washer and wet sand blasting system.
Add in the aqueous degreasers and the waxes, grease, grime and filth are blasted away, leaving a surface ready to be worked, coated and finally waxed. |
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Syncrozilla
Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2004
Posts: 772
Location: Santa Barbara
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| Posted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 9:09 pm Post subject: |
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| svenakela wrote: |
| Syncrozilla wrote: |
| Hmmm Stacey, that's interesting. I talked to our paint vendor who told me they do not think that the etching primer we use (ppg) will stick to an anodized surface very well. They suggested stripping the anadizing off first. I'm going to ask around a little more I think before I strip them. I'll let you know what I find out. |
It all depends. Aluminium oxide, which is created within minutes on a raw aluminium surface, is "fat" and there's hardly no paint that sticks to an untreated alu surface. If the part is porous and anodized it will probably stick, but the best is yellow chromating. All alu parts I manufactured to the big dragons once upon a time were always chromated before paint. If you want the paint to stick for real you should remove/dissolve the anodizing and prime with a alu primer. You'll get the best result if you quickly brush of the part with a sand paper and spray the first layer within a minute
A highly polished anodized surface is like painting a vaxed mirror, it will not stick at all.
BTW, your doka looks really good.  |
Thanks for the advise. I sent the gates off to Fresno to a company that does coating and stripping as they quoted me a very low price (under $100.00) to chemically strip them. They shipped them back to me (luckily shipping as free as Its done for me by a vendors truck I do a lot of business with) saying I needed to remove ALL the steel as it will get "burned" by the electrical current in the tank. There's a lot of rivets that are partially steel as well as the screws and threaded plates the hinges are screwed into. I guess I need to make sure I can find the proper rivets before I take them all apart. The rivets are very nice with a nice rounded head on them. Not your standard ace hardware kind of thing.
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Syncrozilla
Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2004
Posts: 772
Location: Santa Barbara
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| Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 11:11 pm Post subject: |
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Progress on the doka this weekend. After picking away at it over the last week and a half we got the undercarriage stripped again
Here it is all set up for spraying. A couple coats of ppg dp40 two part epoxy sealer/primer applied
And then 4 coats of single stage
I think it looks great. For my intended use rust will never be an issue. One thing I like about the red is that there will be a contrast with all the running gear as it's black powder coat. Bling baby!
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insyncro
Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 11:30 pm Post subject: |
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Flaming  |
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slo356
Samba Member
Joined: February 18, 2002
Posts: 365
Location: Central Calif Coast
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| Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 11:32 pm Post subject: |
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All the hard work and attention to detail shows. Beautiful work.
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'65 T1 Sedan
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carterzest
Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2008
Posts: 3842
Location: Eagle, ID/Sun Valley, ID
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| Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 11:40 pm Post subject: |
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| insyncro wrote: |
| Flaming |
Is that weird? 
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insyncro
Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 7:23 am Post subject: |
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| carterzest wrote: |
| insyncro wrote: |
| Flaming |
Is that weird? |
I think it's awesome |
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Syncrozilla
Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2004
Posts: 772
Location: Santa Barbara
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| Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 7:21 am Post subject: |
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progress report; All the body and pain work on the truck is now completely done except the rear seat base and the gates. THe truck went back in the booth last week to repair a couple minor flaws. The body has been finish sanded, buffed and polished now. It's shiny!
Now for the gates. We went around a little with these. The original plan was the chemically strip them and apply an etching epoxy. Off they went to Fresno. I got a call from the stripper saying the dip would "burn out" all the steel rivets and they should be drilled out. Not wanting to completely disassemble the gates I had them brought back to Santa Barbara (Thank you to First Interstate Bumper for allowing them to ride around the state on your delivery truck for free).
I was worried that blasting them would round out all the edges of the extrusion. Many many thanks to David (slo356) for suggesting Central Powder coating in San luis obispo. David picked up the gates for me at my shop one day and brought them up to SLO and dropped them off. He also went and picked them up for me. Thanks David. Hopefully someday I can return the favor. I'm really happy with the work that Central Coast did. The y also noticed a small crack that was missed by my tig guy during the first round of repairs and had it welded at a shop next door quickly and for a great price. I got the gates back with a coat of epoxy etching primer on them. I did a little filler work on a couple scratches. They should get pained in the next day of so.
Thanks also to Tristar Eric for hooking me up with a couple new gate hindges.
Now all I need is a decent set of gate latches. If anyone out there has any or any leads that would be great. They are different than the regular gate latches (which are available from the dealer $$$).
[/img]
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Syncrozilla
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Joined: September 11, 2004
Posts: 772
Location: Santa Barbara
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 4:58 pm Post subject: |
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Thread return from the dead!
I've been picking away at the doka on a pretty regular basis. I'm kind of putting it back together in a "shotgun" approach. I work on one part of it until I realize I'm missing some new hardware or part then I put that down on my list and move on to another area. I've got almost all the wiring in except the stuff for the interior lights and the door light switches. I have almost all the hard brake lines done. Today I got the radiator/fan/condenser assembly installed. It's starting to look like a truck again. Still no suspension. Here she is
The sunroof is an NOS piece
Sound/heat barrier before radiator install
I'm putting the Small car in dash AC in. I had to modify the bracket and move the unit over a little to clear the bigger BMW brake booster.
New valves and hose on the EVAP stuff on the tank. I'm held up in getting the tank back in because I'm waiting for some diesel immersion hose for the sending unit. I don't know if I will run a diesel engine but I want the option.
I'll try to update this thread a little more frequently.
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outcaststudios
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Joined: February 09, 2015
Posts: 1732
Location: Maine
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16CVs 
Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2004
Posts: 4024
Location: Redwood City, California
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 7:39 pm Post subject: |
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Seth
Truck is coming along nicely. So that bracket that you modified does double duty , I take it that the facia cowl slides on that piece of sheet metal and the hoses hook to the connectors to provide center heat/cool ?
I am following you on the in dash air and will learn by your experiences what and what not to do.
Stacy
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1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
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Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
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axeman
Samba Member
Joined: December 11, 2009
Posts: 162
Location: east kent, uk
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 11:06 pm Post subject: |
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I have alwasys fitted the tank then fit the sender once the tank is in. Reason for this. It gives you a little more room agains the chassis leg.
Look like a grate job.
Neil
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1957, 1200cc 30hp, big window, delux beetle, swedish modle, now living in france
1991 holdsworth villa 3, 2.1, uk van, now sold
1991 syncro doka uk van was 2.1 now B230, out with the b230 and in with a 1.8 20v, and 4 doors
1987 syncro westy was 1.6 jx now ej22 |
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syncrodemaya
Samba Member
Joined: February 24, 2017
Posts: 106
Location: Vancouver
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| Posted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 3:30 pm Post subject: Re: Another bamboo yellow 16" Doka resto thread |
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| Any updates on the restoration of the doka? Would love to see how this project turned out thanks! |
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Chuey
Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2010
Posts: 855
Location: Oceanside, California
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| Posted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 9:17 pm Post subject: Re: Another bamboo yellow 16" Doka resto thread |
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How do you register your Dokas? I went round and round with the BAR when I was referred to a referee because my Doka doesn't have a check engine light. (I know, but I thought the referee would just look at it and smog test it and give me a sticker so I'd be cool next time. Didn't happen that way at all.)
Will it be easy to register with a Diesel in it?
Chuey |
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Syncrozilla
Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2004
Posts: 772
Location: Santa Barbara
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| Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 7:31 am Post subject: Re: Another bamboo yellow 16" Doka resto thread |
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| syncrodemaya wrote: |
| Any updates on the restoration of the doka? Would love to see how this project turned out thanks! |
Here's where she sits now.
The body is mostly together except the glass.
All the suspension is done.
All the brake lines and wiring are installed.
front AC is coming along.
I have a Stephans 1.8t ready to install.
I need to rebuilt the transmission and front diff.
Still quite a bit to do. I've been sidetracked with other projects. I hope to work on it again pretty soon though.
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Syncrozilla
Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2004
Posts: 772
Location: Santa Barbara
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| Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 8:00 am Post subject: Re: Another bamboo yellow 16" Doka resto thread |
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Here's some shots of the suspension. I opted to run the 14" brakes on the rear for simplicity. The rear arms and all the front stuff is OG 16.
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MsTaboo
Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2006
Posts: 4087
Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
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| Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 9:22 am Post subject: Re: Another bamboo yellow 16" Doka resto thread |
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Looking really good, nice work!
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ischias
Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2005
Posts: 47
Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 3:10 am Post subject: Re: Another bamboo yellow 16" Doka resto thread |
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Anything new?
Following this thread like dope😆😎🤓 |
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Syncrozilla
Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2004
Posts: 772
Location: Santa Barbara
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| Posted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 6:19 pm Post subject: Re: Another bamboo yellow 16" Doka resto thread |
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Sadly not much new at this time but I’m told my trans and front diff will be shipping from Mr Gas on Tuesday. I’m planning on trying to get it running and driving this month. I’ll update this tread as soon as I’ve made a little progress
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