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Sealant between cylinder shims?
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txoval
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 5:52 pm    Post subject: Sealant between cylinder shims? Reply with quote

If you need to use two (2) cylinder shims to reach the correct deck height do you use sealant between the shims?

Found tons of data on shims and deck height, but nothing covering this.

Thanks
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MURZI
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ultra gray permatex
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bugguy1967
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use Curil T. The problem with two shims is that if you don't use sealant between the layers, they'll fall off when you're assembling. They only really need some on the shim that's going to bump against the case.

Maybe you could tape the shims to the cylinder to avoid using sealant between the layers. Just a thought...
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txoval
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So a little to hold the shims together, sealant between the shims and case, but no sealant between shim and cylinder
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SRP1
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put a light skim coat between the shims, and on the cylinder itself. Put your sealing bead on the shim that seats to the case
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a hole tube of sillysnot.... no just a slight amount on the cylinder then the shims& it should be good to go, Ive never used curlyt on any thing so I dont have a clue as to how well it works, I have used, silyconeultra,yamahabond2,haylomar&518.none of witched leeked, but the 518 is a bitch to clean off.I only use it on cases, and may stop using it there I think it is too thick and dosent squish out enough, but on the other hand it is locktight so it wont let the case move around&fret.so i might just keep usig it.but it's a bitch to get off.
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txoval
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies...I'm planning on using 518.

And yes I know it's a pain to remove, had to split my case once during the build because I got in a hurry. Its a nice product and goes on much better than ultra black, 3M, etc...
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the trick to the ultra black/grey/orange is to use the nozzle that comes with it and slice it so it has about a .060" hole at an angle then it comes out just right, where you want it to(within reason of your abilitys,if you piss on your feet everyday you may have an issue with you aim...or you may be real popular wit the ladys that like farm aminals).I do like the ultra,it's easy&cleans up easy when dissambled.(for cylinders&exgaskets/joints only)
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APPLEGREENVW
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark tucker wrote:
the trick to the ultra black/grey/orange is to use the nozzle that comes with it and slice it so it has about a .060" hole at an angle then it comes out just right, where you want it to(within reason of your abilitys,if you piss on your feet everyday you may have an issue with you aim...or you may be real popular wit the ladys that like farm aminals).I do like the ultra,it's easy&cleans up easy when dissambled.(for cylinders&exgaskets/joints only)


How do you clean your ultra permatex off parts? I have a hard time cleaning the orange stuff off.
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t0ne321
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

any kind of Ketone will rip that stuff off in a hurry (Acetone or MEK). Only problem is it will quickly evaporate if it's too hot out.
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SRP1
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Soak in a little gasoline overnight, RTV is gone.

Wire wheel works well too.
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APPLEGREENVW
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

t0ne321 wrote:
any kind of Ketone will rip that stuff off in a hurry (Acetone or MEK). Only problem is it will quickly evaporate if it's too hot out.


I'll give it a try.
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