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Spot Rust Seam Rust
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woggs1
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 5:47 am    Post subject: Spot Rust Seam Rust Reply with quote

About 3 years ago I moved from 30 miles inland to the California coastline. When I lived inland my van had no apparent visible rust that I remember, now the rust spots are all over and getting worse. The ocean here has big frequent waves and that puts lots of salt in the air. I grew up in Half Moon Bay, and we always knew who the locals were because of the rust on their cars. Anyways I really need to do something soon, the progression of the rust is very concerning, and now I noticed there is starting to be rust in some of the seams! I am trying to figure out the best course of action at this point. Since the rust spots are pretty much all over the van I am contemplating a DIY repaint, but my wife and I just had a baby so I don't have lots of extra time but I have to do something. Is there anything i can do to stop the rust from spreading (quick and dirty method) until things calm down and I have more time to do it right? What would you do? I have a feeling that if I don't do something soon the resto job will be much harder.


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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Car Wax.
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Neptuno
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 6:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rsxsr wrote:
Car Wax.


Is that it? I had always been afraid that while getting close to the seam rust that I would lift something and then do some more damage...
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woggs1
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rsxsr wrote:
Car Wax.


I would like to do something a little more substantive, will car wax stop rust from spreading?
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Surface rust is oxidation. Blocking the oxygen is a way to combat rust. The paint in the pictures looks like it has not seen wax in a long time. Wax is not to produce a shine but to limit the oxidation of the paint. From what I can see, compounding the rust will remove the stain and help seal the metal.

Short of that, you can grind the rust away, rust treat, metal prime, putty, paint and clear, but if you don't wax the paint, it will start all over again. Rust from the inside out is more like cancer and what you see on the surface is only the tip of the iceberg. A good example is the kitchen seam rust.

This van has patina and some wax would go a long way to slowing the rust and preserving the patina. Rat Rods and Hoodriders just shoot clear over the rust. Lots of choices. I used to want a show finish when I got ours on the road, but after bouncing off of limbs and branches, dropping things against it in the garage, and my biggest fear public parking lots, I am starting to get the whole Patina thing.
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TequilaSunSet
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the sake of your Vanagon... move inland Wink
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r39o
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine looked exactly like that. Same color too.

I have methods and some results after a few years to share.

My van has always lived with in 5 miles of the So Cal coast since new and now still.

First thing is to wash the salt and old wax off with liquid dish detergent.

The quick fix is then to use wash and wax followed by some liquid cleaner wax which will get you down the road and feeling better in a couple of hours

Do the above now. This is the quick fix feel good fix.

Next comes the hard stuff. Do this some other day. Get some CLR.

Use the CLR to wash the rust off (internet search how.)

The CLR will take the new wax right off in that area. The spots will be gone now. But you still have to deal with the open wound. Get some touch up paint. Your van is faded. Do not got the L90D you have now. I used some GM touch up I got a the flaps. Later I will tell which one. The idea is to get close match as the wax you use later will cover it up more. Now you still have a some what rusty spot to deal with. Get some Metal Prep and wash it out. Rinse. Dry. Touch up. Wait a day or two and wax the spot. If you are very careful and use a tiny brush, you will not need to do any sanding.

(if you van is like mine, it has a zillion spots and you will never get it perfect but a LOT better.)

Since the van is white you can take paste wax and cover the seams. You will see this a little but a LOT better than the dark rust.

The areas on the fender wells WILL come back in a year or two.

You have to stay on top of that area.

I now get compliments on the looks, It was a turd before with red rust freckles. It passes the 5 foot test easy.

Later, maybe, take it to a pro detailer. Once clean, you should get a good deal but they will get all the spots you missed.
.
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woggs1
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

r39o wrote:
Mine looked exactly like that. Same color too.

I have methods and some results after a few years to share.

My van has always lived with in 5 miles of the So Cal coast since new and now still.

First thing is to wash the salt and old wax off with liquid dish detergent.

The quick fix is then to use wash and wax followed by some liquid cleaner wax which will get you down the road and feeling better in a couple of hours

Do the above now. This is the quick fix feel good fix.

Next comes the hard stuff. Do this some other day. Get some CLR.

Use the CLR to wash the rust off (internet search how.)

The CLR will take the new wax right off in that area. The spots will be gone now. But you still have to deal with the open wound. Get some touch up paint. Your van is faded. Do not got the L90D you have now. I used some GM touch up I got a the flaps. Later I will tell which one. The idea is to get close match as the wax you use later will cover it up more. Now you still have a some what rusty spot to deal with. Get some Metal Prep and wash it out. Rinse. Dry. Touch up. Wait a day or two and wax the spot. If you are very careful and use a tiny brush, you will not need to do any sanding.

(if you van is like mine, it has a zillion spots and you will never get it perfect but a LOT better.)

Since the van is white you can take paste wax and cover the seams. You will see this a little but a LOT better than the dark rust.

The areas on the fender wells WILL come back in a year or two.

You have to stay on top of that area.

I now get compliments on the looks, It was a turd before with red rust freckles. It passes the 5 foot test easy.

Later, maybe, take it to a pro detailer. Once clean, you should get a good deal but they will get all the spots you missed.
.


Awesome!, that is exactly what I needed to know, thanks!
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bluebus86
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would not use wax to seal a rusty seam, a little sanding and some rattle can rustoleum, seam sealer followed by more paint would be a nice fix, that would really help a lot. that seam really needs the paint/sealer treatment, cuase seam rust WILL get away from you. the spotted rust on the other panel areas is also a concern, but not as much so, ideally you should sand them out, protecting nearby good paint, and then rattle can them. you can mask them with a piece of paper with holes cut in it.

after the paint has dried on the seam, put on a compatible seam sealer (flexable weather proof type) check with your local automotive body shop supply house for the best sealer to use .

you could fill the seam with thick paint, however thick paint WILL crack, then you have a water trap, Thus you MUST use a flexible seam sealer, failure to do so WILL result in fatal rust at that seam location

do this before the rains start in the next few months.


After the paint has dried, wax the heck out of it.

the rust has started whever the paint has already failed, areas of stone chips, door dings, and seam sealer splitting. The salt air certainly accelerates the process. take care of bussiness and do it right, dont rely on wax or a quicky spray of paint without really sanding and seam sealing the van, you can do it on the cheap, and hold it over for a long time till you can afford a new paint job.

that seam rust is just going to get worse faster and faster once it gets deep your screwed,

you may choose to use a rust Nutralizer (stay away from all Eastwood Brand rust treatments, the are junk) go to a real automotive body shop supply store and get Rust Mort or Rust Seal by SEM company or simular name brand stuff (NOT EASTWOOD) make sure the paint you use on top of the rust converter is compatible with acid undercoats. many converters contain acids, and some types of paint will not cure if exposed to a low pH (acid)

painting a test panel with all layer,s primers, sealers, etc...is a good idea


You cant repair split seam sealer with paint alone.
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