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breaking in engine
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patban82
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Joined: March 22, 2010
Posts: 211
Location: LOS ANGELES, CA
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2014 8:41 pm    Post subject: breaking in engine Reply with quote

Hey guys. I just recently got a longblock rebuild. So I was wondering whats the break in process? The engine builder told me after 250 miles to change the oil. And put 1000 street miles before taking it in on the freeway. He said this way it would be better to seat the rings on the pistons. But I just think it will take me forever to put 1000 miles on the engine that way. Also after the 250 mile oil change. How soon aftrr I need to do the oil change. Another 250 miles or after 3000 miles? Let me know what u guys think or any suggestions. Thanks
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asesapie
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Location: Spokane, WA
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2014 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is also initial break in to set the cam and make sure it doesn't flatten. You need to hold the rpms near 2000 for 20 minutes or so. That's what my motor builder had me do. You want to be sure to use a good break in oil as well with zinc to help the flat style lifters. I would change the oil again after the first 250 at 1000 miles or earlier.

As for the first amount of mileage before freeway speeds I didn't go that far with mine. I took it to maybe 500 miles then had a trip across the state and the motor did just fine.

You will need to adjust the valves again as well.

I'm no motor specialist but an enthusiast that just did the same thing with a new motor not too long ago. Hope this helps.
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Aussiebug
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2014 1:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

asesapie has it about right.

For the first start, fill the sump with oil, put a few cc down each plug hole, and with then plugs out, crank the engine for about 15 seconds. This fills the oil galleries and lubes the bearings without any stresses on the engine.

Put the plugs in and start the engine.

Take it straight to 2500rpm and hold it there for 10-15 minutes. Yes it noisy (so avoid Sunday mornings :-), and yes it sounds weird, but it hardens the cam surfaces and since the engine is not under any load, it's not harmful to other parts. If you don't do this, the cam can start wearing fast. Use an oil with ZDDP in it (Castrol Edge in Australia is a good one - don't know if you have that where you live). ZDDP protects flat tappets from scuffing. In fact if you can, use a high ZDDP oil all the time. Most oils have a little, but it's sacrificial, so gets used up as the oil ages. The VW engine will benefit from an oil having at least 800ppm so there is still some left at the normal 3000 miles oil change point.

Start driving the car. Use various speeds, initially with a gentle throttle, and and after a hundred miles or so, change the oil then start using the throttle more - occasional hard acceleration to help bed in the rings, and vary your travelling speed so the engine is running at different revs.

VW say in their Owners Manuals that there is no specific run-in required, but the above will help with a long engine life.

Gradually increase the revs and throttle usage, but don't baby it. After about 500 miles, you can drive it as hard as you want.

Change the oil after another 1000 miles and then change it at the normal 3000 miles intervals.
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txoval
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2014 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Popular oil types: Valvoline VR1 - 10W30, Brad Penn Break-in oil - 30, Amsoil - ZRod

The 15-20 minute cam break-in is critical...the cam lobes and lifter faces are oiled by the oil flying off of the crank/rods. At idle speeds this doesn't happen very well.

After the cam break in, there is a procedure in the Bentley VW manuals, drive in 3rd gear at 30mph...then, at full throttle reach 50mph. Reduce speed back to 30mph and repeat. Do this 5-10 times to help set the rings.

Brad Penn oil is great, but must be ordered...I use it for break in and switch to VR1
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