Author |
Message |
dgsaz Samba Member
Joined: November 04, 2008 Posts: 579 Location: Phoenix / San Diego
|
Posted: Fri Sep 13, 2013 1:46 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Ellis' Bug wrote: |
Sorry guys but I'm a little electrically challenged. I have one side of the t-stat grounded..... and my fan isn't coming on.
Can someone re-do the drawing above so that it is correct...... or is it already correct? |
The drawing as shown is how I have my set up wired.
Power comes from the keyed source, when the thermo switch reaches 180 degrees the switch closes and allows the current to pass through and on to the relay.
When the power reaches the relay it sends current out via the 87 terminal.
The circuit at 85 is basicly the control wiring and the 87 is the power to the
fan.
The power for the fan originates at the battery, via terminal 30 rather than the keyed power source.
This assumes you are using a relay.
dgsaz |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Dale M. Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2006 Posts: 20378 Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley
|
Posted: Fri Sep 13, 2013 2:27 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Ellis' Bug wrote: |
Sorry guys but I'm a little electrically challenged. I have one side of the t-stat grounded..... and my fan isn't coming on.
Can someone re-do the drawing above so that it is correct...... or is it already correct? |
If one side of t-stat is grounded, the power to operate relay will come from ignition switch to relay (winding) then to t-stat technically all your doing is reversing direction of current flow (sources) through relay winding, its not rocket science its just reversed direction....
IF you want fan to cone on or go off when key is off/on wire relay winding to a supply controlled by key...
Dale _________________ “Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
begood56vw Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2006 Posts: 280
|
Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 12:43 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Mr. Dgzas, I wired up my cooler and relay identical as the drawing you provided and when I began driving the fasty the indicator light is on but very dim. Not sure what's going on it never lite up bright just on all the way into work about 19 miles. Can you it someone provide some advised??? Please and thank you in advance. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mikedjames Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2012 Posts: 2736 Location: Hamble, Hampshire, UK
|
Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 3:06 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Borrowing the schematic that started the thread and re-drawing for the case where the thermostat switch grounds the connection :
If the light comes on dim straight away you have probably connected it in series with the relay coil.
You need to go back to the beginning.
Pull off all the wires except the 85/86 relay coil connection. When you short the thermostat switch the relay should click.
Then connect the 30 connection to the fused link from the battery and check the fan comes on when you touch its wire to the 30 terminal on the relay. Then put the fan connection on 87. Check it starts when you short the thermostat switch.
Then connect the on/off light switch to the 87 terminal as well.
The on/off llight should come on when the fan comes on.
Depending on where your cooler is it may not need the fan. I run a 12 plate (EMPI 24 plate) cooler in an air scoop under my bus and it does not need a fan. Just an oil bypass thermostat valve for most days. _________________ Ancient vehicles and vessels
1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
Engine 1: 40k miles (rocker shaft clip fell off), Engine 2: 30k miles (rebuild, dropped valve). Engine 3: a JK Preservation Parts "new" engine, aluminium case: 26k miles: new top end.
Gearbox rebuild 2021 by Bears.
1979 Westerly GK24 24 foot racer/cruiser yacht Forethought of Gosport.
1973 wooden Pacer sailing dinghy |
|
Back to top |
|
|
begood56vw Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2006 Posts: 280
|
Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 1:48 pm Post subject: |
|
|
mikedjames wrote: |
Borrowing the schematic that started the thread and re-drawing for the case where the thermostat switch grounds the connection :
If the light comes on dim straight away you have probably connected it in series with the relay coil.
You need to go back to the beginning.
Pull off all the wires except the 85/86 relay coil connection. When you short the thermostat switch the relay should click.
Then connect the 30 connection to the fused link from the battery and check the fan comes on when you touch its wire to the 30 terminal on the relay. Then put the fan connection on 87. Check it starts when you short the thermostat switch.
Then connect the on/off light switch to the 87 terminal as well.
The on/off llight should come on when the fan comes on.
Depending on where your cooler is it may not need the fan. I run a 12 plate (EMPI 24 plate) cooler in an air scoop under my bus and it does not need a fan. Just an oil bypass thermostat valve for most days. |
Well I wired my system as mr mikedjames, suggested and it's doing the same thing. The light is on ever so lightly and after about 10 miles in the freeway it lights up pretty good. At least I know the cooling fan is coming on. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|