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type11969
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Joined: September 12, 2004
Posts: 474
Location: Collingswood NJ
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 Posted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 7:54 am Post subject: |
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This is awesome info, thanks everyone. Plan to rehab my wiring harness over T-day weekend.
-Chris
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1969 VW Beetle - t4ed indeed
1971 Porsche 914 - jackstanded
1976 Westy - DD |
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1967250s
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Joined: May 02, 2007
Posts: 2137
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| Posted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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| Nice work here, coming from an avionics tech that does this for aircraft. Also neat that the other wires were incorporated to neaten up the engine. The little narrow spade connectors are also used on the instrument bulb mounts and some of the switches; nice to have! Another little hint with the connectors= pinch the metal tabs together just a little so they are more 'U' shaped and not so much a Vee; makes it easier too get a good crimp. |
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Gregg in the 603
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Joined: April 13, 2013
Posts: 404
Location: New Hampshire, USA
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| Posted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 6:45 pm Post subject: |
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This is awesome. Quick question:
My 1979 California bus has a '78 ECU (or so the masking tape on it says). I would like to rebuild the harness and keep the whole thing '78 since I don't need '79 components for smog. How do I tell what year my harness is?
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1979 Mexico Beige Westy auto
Dirty Dover, NH |
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aerosurfer
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Joined: March 25, 2012
Posts: 1602
Location: Indianapolis, IN
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| Posted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 5:06 am Post subject: |
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From ratwell;
http://ratwell.com/technical/FISwap.html
VW Baywindow L-Jet configurations can be broken down into 4 groups:
79 CA models
79 Fed models, 78-77 models, 76 1/2 models (from VIN 216 2 077 584)
75 - 76 1/2 models (up to VIN 216 2 077 583)
74 CA Auto (VIN 214 2 132 408 - 214 2 300 000)
79 CA models are unique because they have an O2 sensor and special ECU with a built-in rev limiter. All of the other models rely on a rev limiting rotor in the distributor to limit the RPMs to 5400.
76 1/2 - 78 models and 79 Fed models are the most common. The sales numbers were the highest and you are more likely to find these models at the junkyard than any other models. The all have a 7-pin AFM and a mechanical EGR valve.
The late 76 models have their own harness and a microswitch on the throttle but are otherwise the same. The 7th pin is for an air temperature sensor inside the AFM.
75 - 76 1/2 models models have a 6-pin AFM and an electro-vacuum EGR valve. Because they lack the air temp sensor, these models have an intake air preheat pipe that is part of the cross over pipe that's seen on the original exhaust setup.
74 CA Automatic models are very rare. They have a 1 year only harness and no decel valve.
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Rebuild your own FI Harness..My Harness
77 Westy 2.0L Rockin and Rolling Resto!
72 Sportsmobile (sold)
79 Tran$porter... Parts car money machine (gone) |
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Gregg in the 603
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Joined: April 13, 2013
Posts: 404
Location: New Hampshire, USA
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| Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 5:59 pm Post subject: |
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Hey there. One thing. When taking the wires off my harness, I neglected to discriminate between 6 and 9, instead relying on the writing on the wires. I'm assuming the dot next to the number symbolizes the line underneath them, the way we usually do it. Am I right?
I used the 7 wire as an example. None of the other wires has a dot/period on them at all
The problem is that each of these wires ends up next each other on the AFM connector, so this is easy to get wrong!
Thanks for the help....
The second picture is where I have them going on my AFM Connector. Does anyone see any discrepancies? Thanks as always...
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1979 Mexico Beige Westy auto
Dirty Dover, NH |
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Gregg in the 603
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Joined: April 13, 2013
Posts: 404
Location: New Hampshire, USA
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| Posted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:24 am Post subject: |
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Okay, I found it in the AFC troubleshooting manual. What an EXCELLENT resource for the L-Jet. I was right, the wires use the period as the line, so the number six is written 6. and the nine is 9.
Important to know! I had the AFM connector numbers correct too.
Oh, one more thing. This website is linked on Ratwell's site. It is the source for all items Digikey does not have. Even has the boots! I wish I had been here before I went to digikey. The crimper is great. Prices are a little high, but you can't find some of this stuff!
http://www.eagleday.com/ampconnectors.html
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1979 Mexico Beige Westy auto
Dirty Dover, NH |
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Manfreds78bay
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Joined: February 27, 2009
Posts: 754
Location: PNW
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| Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 8:57 am Post subject: |
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Just completed my FI rewiring projected. I followed the directions and ordered the exact part numbers listed by canadianveedub from digi-key. They worked perfectly and digi-key has fast shipping.
She fired up this morning perfectly with the new harness.
My wire harness desperately needed this. I found a lot of bad connections that I ignored because I was afraid of messing with the wiring harness. This process allowed me to get more comfortable with the FI setup.
This took longer than I expected. I had a hard time finding the right crimping die and then there was a learning curve as to how best to use the crimping tool. I went through more connectors than expected and had to reorder. But if you have everything in front of you and have used these style of connections and crimper, I don't see this taking more than than a half day to complete.
This should be a sticky for sure.
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1978 2.0L FI Campmobile
1982 AMC Eagle SX4 4.2L FI |
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aerosurfer
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Joined: March 25, 2012
Posts: 1602
Location: Indianapolis, IN
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 6:37 am Post subject: |
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| raygreenwood wrote: |
A couple of notes.....no picking at you...just adding some info that should help.
The type of crimper used is spot on. If you cannot afford a good one....get a cheap one...but it must be compound and ratcheting.
the best crimper dies are made by Paladin tools. Their crimper frames/handles are a few notches above as well. Many other like Klein, IDEAL, Greenlee and Eclipse/ Lunar are knock off's of the Paladin.
The key here with all of these be they knocks or not...they all take the same die pattern so Paladin and other knock off brand dies will interchange in any of these.
Th Rhino brand is good quality but takes a unique die pattern. It may be hard to get what you need if you need it.
Also....there is actually quite a science to crimping. Solder will never beat it for consistency and longevity. There is an entire worldwide technical association built around the crimping industry with huge technical resources and date and training available.
A proper barrel crimp will squeeze all air out from between the wire strands in the barrel and make a uniform cross section that can hardly be discerned as stranded.
A note....that will help the crimped connection last longer without internal corrosion.....is to strip the insulation to the exact proper length so that small ends of the strands are not sticking out on the connection side.
The stray strands bend around and can allow moisture to wick into the face of the crimp causing high resistance.
Also...even better hygiene is to then heat the crimp just lightly...maybe 165-175F to dry it and then apply circuit board varnish to seal it. The heat helps it dry fast. this seals any moisture ingress area.
Nice write up! Ray |
Reviving this thread....
I have an interest on rebuilding a spare harness for myself, but more usefully refreshing and redoing some of the wiring connections elsewhere in the bus. I have a ratcheting crimper with interchagable dies, HF brand, but the only Die with it was for insulated terminals. I have been searching for the proper die for the open barrel connectors, but finding it a little more confusing and tougher to get the right part. Do any of the following parts seem to be the correct die to order...
http://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/tools.html Second part down
http://www.proskit.com/crimpers/dies/lunar-series-die-set-open-barrel-contacts?cPath=3_25&
http://www.markertek.com/product/pal-2033/paladin-...ated-term-
Or just get a new tool, per ratwell; http://www.delcity.net/store/redirect/p_714008
Or does someone have a lead to get the correct ones. Amazon and ebay were both lacking, and doing search terms of 'Open barrel, Crimping tool, Dies, non insulated' or any combination of, didn't really give me a great definitive results.
Thanks
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Rebuild your own FI Harness..My Harness
77 Westy 2.0L Rockin and Rolling Resto!
72 Sportsmobile (sold)
79 Tran$porter... Parts car money machine (gone) |
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Tcash
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aerosurfer
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Joined: March 25, 2012
Posts: 1602
Location: Indianapolis, IN
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 10:10 am Post subject: |
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The HF Center Force is the one I have. The dies are certainly removable, although never thought about the width of them. The problem with the CF and the Anchor is that particular crimp is for Insulated connections, and it works quite nice. The FI harness and most everything else from VW is with non insulated or open barrel connections. That is the Die or whole tool Im looking for
_________________
Rebuild your own FI Harness..My Harness
77 Westy 2.0L Rockin and Rolling Resto!
72 Sportsmobile (sold)
79 Tran$porter... Parts car money machine (gone) |
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Wasted youth
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Joined: July 06, 2012
Posts: 5134
Location: California's Hot and Smoggy Central Valley
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 10:17 am Post subject: |
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Aerosurfer....
The HF tool description notes it is for either insulated or bare terminals. I have not used it, you say you have one... and you say it is meant only for insulated terminals.
Could you elaborate? Did they screw up their tooling? Are the dies reversible for either insulated or bare?
Or is it poorly adapted for bare terminals? |
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DenverB
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Joined: July 23, 2012
Posts: 704
Location: Denver, Colorado
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 10:18 am Post subject: |
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I get anxiety just looking at wiring diagrams, but this walkthrough is solid and gave me hope when it's time to do my own down the line. Thanks so much.
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'77 Transporter/camper (Bussy - Reef Blue/Pastel White)
'67 bug (Santos - VW Blue)
'84 Vanagon Westfalia (Pink Flamingo - Pastel White/Pink)
'88 Vanagon GL Westfalia (Frankie Says - Wolfram Gray)
'02 Eurovan Weekender (Green Apple)
'95-'03 Eurovan full campers and weekenders (rental fleet)
'84 -'91 Vanagon full campers and weekenders (rental fleet)
'72 Porsche 914 (Greta - RIP)
www.RockyMountainCampervans.com |
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aerosurfer
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Joined: March 25, 2012
Posts: 1602
Location: Indianapolis, IN
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 10:31 am Post subject: |
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EDIT on the above comparison:
Just read through the first few pages, and the HF crimper the author tests in no longer the tool sold by HF.
The one available now, and what I have as of a few months ago is identicle to the Anchor tool in dies and sizes (as measured with my own caliper). The Die is a one piece design now, not the sandwiched metal insert as in the comparrison. Im not trying to plug Chinese knockoff stuff, but in this case it looks like improvements have been made from 2008 when that thread was written. Doing insulated attachments works fine, with the dual crimp on both the metal and plastic, it holds securely.
Wasted....
The dies are useless for non insulated terminals, at least in the size we need them in for this wiring project. They are removable from the tool, but HF does not sell any other dies for them. Poor description indeed.
Look back to the first post in this thread for a good picture of the open barrel connections and the proper tool.
Ratwell has a good page on the terminals (of course he does, he's a mayor)
http://ratwell.com/technical/Terminals.html
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Rebuild your own FI Harness..My Harness
77 Westy 2.0L Rockin and Rolling Resto!
72 Sportsmobile (sold)
79 Tran$porter... Parts car money machine (gone) |
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Tcash
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Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 11:07 am Post subject: |
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The one available now, and what I have is identical to the Anchor tool dies and sizes (as measured with my own caliper).
Source the Anchor tool dies then. The dies are what matters. |
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Manfreds78bay
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Joined: February 27, 2009
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Location: PNW
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tristessa
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Joined: April 07, 2004
Posts: 3992
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 12:42 pm Post subject: |
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Those jaws in which tool? I've got the newer HF job and have been looking for dies to use with the OE-type terminals. |
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Manfreds78bay
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aerosurfer
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Joined: March 25, 2012
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Location: Indianapolis, IN
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 1:18 pm Post subject: |
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Great to hear... I had seen that one too, but the reviews were less than impressive. that one will work for me. Ill give it a try with my HF crimper then
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Rebuild your own FI Harness..My Harness
77 Westy 2.0L Rockin and Rolling Resto!
72 Sportsmobile (sold)
79 Tran$porter... Parts car money machine (gone) |
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Manfreds78bay
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Joined: February 27, 2009
Posts: 754
Location: PNW
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 1:32 pm Post subject: |
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| aerosurfer wrote: |
Great to hear... I had seen that one too, but the reviews were less than impressive. that one will work for me. Ill give it a try with my HF crimper then |
If you have never used this kind of crimper, you have to teach yourself. It took me a bit to get a good crimp out of it....but once I got the hang of it, it crimped perfect. I haven't had any issues so far. I think the reviewers didn't take the time to figure out how it works. I use it all the time now on the bus. A must have, I think.
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1978 2.0L FI Campmobile
1982 AMC Eagle SX4 4.2L FI |
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mrcool
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Joined: April 01, 2015
Posts: 358
Location: Bozeman, MT
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| Posted: Sun May 03, 2015 10:50 pm Post subject: |
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| Old thread, but has anyone found a good source for buying small quantities of the wire with the correct wiring color codes? |
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