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rear heater & 2.5 subie
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yycwesty
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 3:19 pm    Post subject: rear heater & 2.5 subie Reply with quote

I'm going to remove my rear heater to provide extra room (don't drive the westy in the winter). I have to loop the line as I have the subaru engine.

For those who have done the job, is the best access to do the job from above in the engine compartment or from below (haven't looked yet so looking for advice).

I plan on making my loop where I currently have the T's coming off the main radiator lines to the rear heater. Will just turn those T's sideways and joining with a piece of the hose which fed the rear heater. My goal is to avoid loosing as little antifreeze as possible and introducing as little air as possible so as to avoid the whole bleeding the system thing.

So lots of clamps and patience. Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers
Al
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BillM
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am assuming that you want to join the hoses to act as a bypass of some
sorts not being familiar with your conversion. I would think that some kind
of restrictor would still be advantageous. Something as simple as a smaller
piece of hose inside the loop or a section of aluminum rod with a hole
drilled in it.
I would personally do all the connections under the van. With my conversion
I keep the rear heater in place and the valve wide open so I can shut off
the front completely. I never feel any heat coming out of the rear unless
I turn the blower on.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't restrict the flow through the loop you may not be able to get a sufficient flow of water to the front heater for it to function well.
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 7:03 pm    Post subject: Re: rear heater & 2.5 subie Reply with quote

yycwesty wrote:
I'm going to remove my rear heater to provide extra room (don't drive the westy in the winter). I have to loop the line as I have the subaru engine.

For those who have done the job, is the best access to do the job from above in the engine compartment or from below (haven't looked yet so looking for advice).

I plan on making my loop where I currently have the T's coming off the main radiator lines to the rear heater. Will just turn those T's sideways and joining with a piece of the hose which fed the rear heater. My goal is to avoid loosing as little antifreeze as possible and introducing as little air as possible so as to avoid the whole bleeding the system thing.

So lots of clamps and patience. Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers
Al


No need to loop them for the engine's sake. Who did your conversion?

There should be a dedicated line from the coolant manifold on the engine to the thermostat housing to provide direct feedback to the thermostat.
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dobryan
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 7:05 pm    Post subject: Re: rear heater & 2.5 subie Reply with quote

Jake de Villiers wrote:
yycwesty wrote:
I'm going to remove my rear heater to provide extra room (don't drive the westy in the winter). I have to loop the line as I have the subaru engine.

For those who have done the job, is the best access to do the job from above in the engine compartment or from below (haven't looked yet so looking for advice).

I plan on making my loop where I currently have the T's coming off the main radiator lines to the rear heater. Will just turn those T's sideways and joining with a piece of the hose which fed the rear heater. My goal is to avoid loosing as little antifreeze as possible and introducing as little air as possible so as to avoid the whole bleeding the system thing.

So lots of clamps and patience. Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers
Al


No need to loop them for the engine's sake. Who did your conversion?

There should be a dedicated line from the coolant manifold on the engine to the thermostat housing to provide direct feedback to the thermostat.


Actually many of the Subie conversions do not have the dedicated line, they use the heater circuit as the feedback loop. Only Tom Shiels has a dedicated line setup that I am aware of...
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'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

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MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The West Coast Westy
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794
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yycwesty
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes no dedicated line in my conversion looping is the way I will go
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ftp2leta
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2013 5:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loop the this way if you can:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is the safety bypass we use:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Ben
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2013 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The dedicated bypass as used by Tom Shiels and Smallcar keeps the engine temperature rock solid in the same way that the OEM system does. YMMV
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dobryan
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2013 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jake de Villiers wrote:
The dedicated bypass as used by Tom Shiels and Smallcar keeps the engine temperature rock solid in the same way that the OEM system does. YMMV


Yes it does. I highly recommend it.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=522274&highlight=shiels
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Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The West Coast Westy
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794
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yycwesty
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2013 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ben

Thanks for the pic..My install is a Vanaru with Nolan installing it in Seattle, so the same units you install. Nice to see what I'll be looking for once I get under the rig

Cheers
Al
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dobryan
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2013 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blast from the past. Wink

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=533531&highlight=shiels
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Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The West Coast Westy
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794
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kamzcab86
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2013 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yycwesty wrote:
dobryan wrote:
Blast from the past. Wink

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=533531&highlight=shiels


You bet but if you notice on that post last year my concern was to loop or not whereas this post I wanted to know the best way to work on the pipes from the top or the bottom


^Two threads with the same title covering the same basic info will lead to confusion... case in point: you replied in the original topic, which, from the sounds of it, was meant to be here (I copied & pasted it above). This is the current topic, so the other has been locked for the time being. Wink

To answer this topic's question: When I removed my rear heater and, thus, the T-fittings, there was no way, no how that I could access them from above; I had to do the job from underneath the van. However, I've got the original WBX; perhaps a Subaru allows for better access from above, but doubtful.
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yycwesty
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2013 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kamzcabb..Will work from underneath
Cheers
Al
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