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Orphaned '87 Automatic Bus
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are a few lifters on the engine that I can push in (or subsequently pull out) further than the others. Is it logical to pull them out and refill them at this point? Or just run them and expect them to pump up without problem?

I've never had an actual lifter problem in the past on any WBXer, they've all filled up eventually.

Thoughts?
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I pulled the lifters and the ones I thought to be soft were infact, quite hard to push in still, so I believe they're fine.
After a long day of cleaning things up, I got the heads on!
This feels like a big accomplishment, as it means things are finally coming together rather than being torn apart.

Rather than painting all the accessories body color, I chose to go the easy route and went with hi temp engine paint in semi-gloss black. I was able to get a good deal on a few cans, and threw down some paint.
Tomorrow I can start bolting things back on!

The engine I am using is out of a 1990 manual transmission van and it's going into a 1987 automatic van. So, I replaced the main seal with the "proper" one, checked the endplay to be the same, and went to bolt on the flex plate. However, I couldn't get the pilot bearing out.
Upon examining the engine originally in the automatic van i discovered it has a pilot bearing in place (AND A FLEX PLATE!), so apparently the engine isn't original to that van, and apparently you can run an automatic transmission with a pilot bearing still in place???
Does anyone know this to be the case FOR SURE?

I will be switching over the lower studs as well, as I know they're different.
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So i'm putting the engine back together.
It's time to stick the rocker assemblies on and adjust the valves to the spec.

This is extremely confusing to me for a freshly assembled engine, as all the specs dictate an engine that has already been together. The lifters haven't been run in years (though seem firm), the pushrods are all strait.

So, I set the crank to #1TDC (Notch in the pulley aligned with crack in case) and screw in the valves on #1 until they touch? Is that all I need to do for now? Then turn it 90* and do it again?

It seems apparent that the pushrods need to be centered in the lifter, but the center involves having all 4 pushrods lifted "up" a bit while trying to put the rockers on. Thats tricky. What's the trick to it?
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My bone stock 86 Automatic does NOT have a Pilot bearing in the crank. The Torque Convertor DOES have an alignment nub on the Crankshaft side.

Having just fitted the Convertor to the Flex Plate..... YES! The pilot bearing must be removed! The recess is required for the alignment nub.

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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a bone stock, probably the single most stock looking vanagon i've ever worked on, 87.
Everything on the engine implied it being original (and never out!) except for this pilot bearing.....
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did the pilot Bering being there force the flex plate into a new profile?

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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The flex plate looks and fits seemingly fine. Unless the transmission input shaft goes into the crank past the flex plate it sure looks to me like it would fit fine.
But that's the question. It's just an odd occurrence.
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

word on the streets is that the pilot bearing can stay in place, won't affect anything.

I got the valves set to zero lash to let the lifters pump up, putting the pushrods into place and getting them centered on the lifters was a true pain in the butt..... but it's done.

Valve covers are in place, Intake Plenum mounted. I'm waiting for some stainless steel clamps to show up tomorrow so I can add the cooling system to the engine.

Now i'm cleaning up the muffler heat shield and hopefully fixing up the muffler mounts I got used. The nuts on them were chiseled off and one has a big crack in it. Now is the time to fix them up, so i'll make it right.

I'm hoping my preventative measures towards avoiding corrosion will result in years of good service.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 04, 2013 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The allen head bolt on the water pump that hides somewhat behind the main pulley always gives me problems. I hate them. I strip them out every time I remove them, and I'm scared to put them back in. I have for some time now been replacing that particular bolt with a hex head bolt instead. There is ample access to get a wrench on it and turn it, though not sufficient for a socket (hence the allen problem).

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This throttle body has some gaps that I don't recall seeing on past throttle boddies. Is this normal or worn out?
There is no lateral play in the shaft, just a gap around the edge.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This engine is coming together nicely!
Waiting on a few parts but should be in the car and running next week.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 04, 2013 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

worn throttle body
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 04, 2013 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought they wear by wobbling?
So this throttle body is no good and not worth using?
Bummer.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 6:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well The engine and trans were assembled and put back in the bus!
It turns out this engine was def out of a manual trans car. The lower engine studs from a manual trans engine still work on an automatic if you stack 4 washers on each stud. The pilot bearing can remain as well.

Well I bolted the whole thing in when I had a chance to get some extra hands, and it only had a few things left to take care of. I needed to install the exhaust and Timesert the oil drain plug. When the engine was out I tapped all the bolt holes in the heads and chased the studs. One hole wasn't so good so I stuck a helicoil in it.
Anyway, I was assembling the exhaust yesterday, excited and anticipating getting it running....
when "BANG".
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


As I tightened the bolt, the piece of the head popped off. This was not the hole that was helicoiled.
Bummer.
Ruined that head......

I guess my options are to either replace that head with the engine in place, using a used head I have lying around that came off a running engine (Small crack between valves but seems to hold its Laquor Thinner well), or find a known good 2.1 and stick it in.
The problem is the bottom end of this engine is somewhat unknown, and If I put a whole bunch more effort into bringing this beast to life and it ends up with oil pressure problems or similar, i'll be stuck.

Is it possible to reuse a head gasket? It's never been run.
What about the compression gaskets atop the jugs?

Winter is coming. The syncro will be parked and this bus has to become my daily driver.....
And I still know nothing about the condition of the transmission, bearings, suspension, or brakes.....
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, life's improving my Lemonade Recipe daily!

It looks like this engine will be getting one of the heads back that came off it (Engine not original to the vehicle now). These heads are in "ehh" shape, including some pitting, cracks between the valves, and seized studs/bolts. Both heads did hold their laquor thinner for at least an hour though... So they're usable.

I took out the first head that seemed to hold its laquor a bit better. I cleaned it all up, Removed all the bolts/studs except one that broke off, and prepared to drill that out. I did everything right, ground it flat, center punched, put it on a drill press in a level jig, drilled a pilot hole, then started to drill.
Things were going well, Then somehow the bit wandered and ate into the aluminum.
So..... that head's no good now.....

SO I guess i've got to try the other one. Luckily it turns out this head was in a bit of better shape. The bolts and studs all came out with NO thread damage (no need to helicoil, SCORE!) and the cracks between the valves (really only on one side) is well within VW spec. There are no pits within the combustion chamber area.
It cleaned up nicely and it's time to fill the pits.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is my recipe for filling pits, which has worked well in the past.
First, clean things up with a SOFT wire brush and a can of brake cleaner.
Then tape off the areas you Don't want JB weld. Do a good job, as JB Weld is tough stuff once its hardened!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Mix up twice as much JB weld as you think you'll need:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Apply the JB weld with a small plastic body filler wedge. Use alot of pressure as you pull it along, forcing it into the pits.
Once you have a layer all the way around, scrape off the remaining with a single edge razor blade using the same pressure to remove any excess. You want to leave only the stuff in the pits.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The end result:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Remove the tape while it's still wet and clean up the edges so you're left with only the JB weld in the pits.
Let it dry overnight.
Tomorrow, the sanding begins.....
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I got that head all cleaned up and installed, reusing the head gaskets (they had zero miles..... cleaned up the old goop and put on new stuff).
Before using this head though I made sure I had all the bolts out, all the holes tapped, etc.
Except.... the spark plugs.

Well now that it's in place, guess what went wrong!?
Yep, stripped a spark plug hole.

Luckily NAPA has a very nice kit for repairing spark plug threads that has a timeserts style insert and it went together seemingly well.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


My new NKG spark plugs are in and torqued.

I also rebuilt the axles using used boots and Redline CV-2 Grease. That grease really is sweet! Its significantly pastier than what i'm used to for CVs and it sticks really well.
Also my CV bolts came in. I tried and tried to find CV bolts available at a good price, perhaps in bulk, but to no avail.
Luckily my local NAPA was able to sell me bolts at a bulk price that was quite good.
The Bolts are 12.9 grade (stamped right on them) and the packages read made in Italy or Made in Czech Republic. Half and half. They look to be quite good, so I bought 50 of them. : )

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The last thing to deal with is the coolant pipe from the water pump to the thermostat housing. I went through 5 used ones and 1 new one trying to put on this bus, all failed in some way. The new one was bent wrong and didn't fit, the used ones all failed at rust spots. Finally got a good used one, and its in good shape.
I cleaned it up like I do, removing the rust, treating with RUST MORT, and painting with High Temp Paint.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I hope to get the Timesert in the oil drain plug tomorrow, the exhaust on, and this sucker started up!
Hopefully things continue to move along.

I cannot find 7mm coolant hose anywhere, especially not in any usable quantities. With another bus yet to do, I'd like to buy a roll..... but I can't find any anywhere.
Anyone know of a source?
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine is running!!!
Ran it for about a minute. Will run it more and adjust the valves tomorrow.
Lots of valve and lifter noise but no rod knocking!
Oil pressure lights went out.
Idles well. Revs.

We shall see how it turns out tomorrow!
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 3:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Applause

Dave
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phishman068 wrote:
I thought they wear by wobbling?
So this throttle body is no good and not worth using?
Bummer.


it can be refurbed - you trade it in for a refurbed one a la core charge type thing

even my on hwy fuel mileage improved when I put in a refurbed one

there is a guy here who does it (in batches IIRC) and Van-Cafe either does it or goes thru him
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like i got it fixed.
Yep, that throttle body was worn. I stuck another known good one in thats off a very low mileage engine. Works great.

It now runs smooth as a whistle! The valve adjustment to 1.5 turns in made a surprising difference in the smoothness and quietness of the engine.
The transmission operates properly as well! I've driven it forwards and reverse. Power steering works (i've turned it around), and it's running pretty nicely. No oil pressure lights on, all warning lights are off, and the temps stay steady.

HOWEVER....
I think it's burning oil or coolant.
I theorize it to be coolant just in that I reused the Green Cylinder Gaskets when i swapped the heads and they surprisingly didn't look perfect upon removal (Despite having zero miles on them).
What's the best way to test for this?

Again, its running quite nicely. It hasn't even been fully tweaked or adjusted yet. It's only run 4 heat cycles of about 10-15 minutes each, so it's possible the smoke is still just internal crap burning off. Every time I bring a bus back to life I'm used to there being some nasty smoke and terrible smells at first, but generally it goes away about now.....

Thoughts?
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you burning oil or coolant?

BIG difference on cause and repair.

Do you suspect the burning due to excessive smoke?

Smoke from burned coolant is White and Steamy and smells SWEET.

Pressurize your cooling system over night and check your level in the morning. If it going into a cylinder that should be fairly obvious in the AM if you pull the spark plugs.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just got one of these in the mail yesterday....

Got one?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cylinder-leak-down-tester-94190.html

Might help tell what is leaking from where...
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