Trailing arm bushing

[ronbug73]

Hi
when do i know its time to replace the trailing arm bushing?

thank you
Ron

[KTPhil]

Fronts? Almost never if you keep them greased.
Rears? Probably now. They work hard and deteriorate, so if you hear squeaking, or the rear alignment is off, or the end of the spring cover is not centered on the cover, the rubber is perished. Make a day of it and replace them, set the rear ride height and toe-out, and be amazed how much smoother it all works!

[ronbug73]

yes the rear one on irs.

[KTPhil]

I had a pair of squeaks and poor handling, and traced it to rotted rear torsion arm bushings and also diagonal arm bushings. Consistent alignment was not possible with all the slop. I replaced both (though all I could find for the diagonals was urethane--lube it well on installation!), set the height, and had the rear aligned. Quieter, better tracking, and I was no longer feeling small or large bumps as much. Definitely worth the effort!

You can take off the cover and see if the outer rubber is squashed or cracked.

[ronbug73]

its not the ones of the rear Axel its for the irs arm

i mean this part.

http://www.kaeferland-shop.de/index.php?action=sho...3.10393585

[KTPhil]

That does not look like my diagonal arm bushings. They look like this (urethane shown, originals were rubber):

Yours might be for an IRS Bug, not late Type 3.

[ronbug73]

at cip1 its the same part
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-113-501-541-C
for bug end type 3

[gtixpress]

[KTPhil]

Another part from CP1 that is more like what I remember:
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D4300

[Brent]

I used new rubber ones, same as what CIP is selling and they are the same as what was originally in there. You need to pound out the steel cups too. The rubber is bonded to the metal cup pretty good and they're a pain to get out of the trailing arm.

_________________
69 Fastback Build
Berg5 Build

[vlad01]

[ronbug73]

when its time to do it together with the SPRING PLATE bushing?
or when taking out the sub-frame?
do i have to remove the engine?

witch leads to another question. when to replace the sub-frame 3 bushing
that connects to the body?
thank you
Ron

[KTPhil]

I would make a combo job of it... spring plate and diagonal arm bushings at the same time. Both can throw off your alignment, so this way you only align once, and you get your ride height correct as well. Read up on setting ride height so you are ready when the torsion bar comes out and you have to set it back correctly. I would measure your ride height now and if it is correct, mark the outer spline/hob with paint or a chisel, and be sure to NOT pull out the inner ends. In this case you don't have to even get out the bubble protractor.

No need to change the body bushings unless they are broken. It is not a friction surface like the other rubber bushings. Mine are original on my '71 and give no trouble.

[Bobnotch]

[KTPhil]

Yeah, it's a day's work but it will set you up for like 50,000 miles or more.

Read up first. And be ready to reset the torsion bars a couple of times to get it right. I have the Pieseler tool but it's still some trial and error if you want to dial it in exactly. Worth the effort for the ride and quiet and better alignment.

[aaronsneary]