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Best way to clean tank in situ
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tootype2crazy
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 6:43 pm    Post subject: Best way to clean tank in situ Reply with quote

Hey all! Today the bus decided to quit running on me. The way it happened made me instantly suspect the fuel tank and I was right. This bus was previously sitting for many years and now I have it and drive it daily. My frequent fill-ups have no doubt liberated many rust flakes which now equate to a small beach's worth of rust flakes sitting right over the outlet. I confirmed this via a quick peer down the tank through the access hole for the sender someone conveniently cut.

My question is what's the best way to clear it? The tank is currently draining VERY slowly. I have some theories on how to clean it but would like to hear some suggestion from the wise samba community before I go willy-nilly on it.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remove engine. Remove tank. POR-15 or KBS the tank. Send injectors off for cleaning. Clean everything back there and get the fuel gauge to work. Replace all fuel lines including the gas filler hoses.

Install tank. Install engine.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agreed, there is no permanent fix for a crappy tank without removing it, on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere a wire shoved up into the outlet and left in place can delay the blockage along with multiple filter changes but either way it's days are numbered.
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tootype2crazy
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since I drive my buses daily I would never, ever coat them in POR-15 or any other coating. A sulfuric acid wash and frequent fill-ups have let my buses with spotless tanks for years. The situation with this tank right now is I can't take it out right away. I will eventually but I just need to get in it and drive it for now. I just wanted to know thoughts on cleaning that gravel pit out of the bottom so I can drive to work tomorrow. Also the fuel gauge works.
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air-cooled or nothing for me
1978 Sunroof Deluxe Bus (daily driver)
1978 Transporter (mom's, making into a camper)
1970 Single Cab 2.1 turbo/EFI 6 Rib, 78 front beam, vanagon backing plates on rear (project)
2001 GTI VR6 (wife's)
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Dansux
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have access to the top of the tank maybe you could use siphon to suck up the rust.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dansux wrote:
If you have access to the top of the tank maybe you could use siphon to suck up the rust.

But not with a shop vac Very Happy

A magnet on a stick may be helpful though Wink
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tootype2crazy wrote:
A sulfuric acid wash and frequent fill-ups have let my buses with spotless tanks for years.

Then why the problem?

I'll have to assume its lack of the above from the previous owners.

If it's clogged then there's rust and sealing it is a smart thing to do.
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VDubTech
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you pull the line off the tank and take the screen out?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 7:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Best way to clean tank in situ Reply with quote

VDubTech wrote:
Did you pull the line off the tank and take the screen out?

tootype2crazy's signature line wrote:
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I suspect his bus is newer than models with screens. Wink
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Dansux
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Someone mentioned putting magnets in a sock.
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tootype2crazy
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I promise to tank out the tank and do the proper thing asap. I just need to drive tomorrow. I have some really strong neodymium magnets and old socks, I shall give it a go!
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1978 Sunroof Deluxe Bus (daily driver)
1978 Transporter (mom's, making into a camper)
1970 Single Cab 2.1 turbo/EFI 6 Rib, 78 front beam, vanagon backing plates on rear (project)
2001 GTI VR6 (wife's)
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drain the tank and sop out any remaining gas. Pour in a weak solution of muriatic acid and let is sit for a few hours. Drain and flush the tank with water, repeating until any loose rust is gone. Pour in a whole gallon of Osphos and let sit overnight. Drain and flush with water and sop out. (you can catch the Osphos for reuse). You may have to run a wire through the outlet and fuel return to open them up.
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Ian
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick n dirty??....blow compressed air up the fuel line...it will usually pop off the rust filled sock, so you can at least get going again.

Keep some spare fuel filters around....
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Drain the tank and sop out any remaining gas. Pour in a weak solution of muriatic acid and let is sit for a few hours. Drain and flush the tank with water, repeating until any loose rust is gone. Pour in a whole gallon of Osphos and let sit overnight. Drain and flush with water and sop out. (you can catch the Osphos for reuse). You may have to run a wire through the outlet and fuel return to open them up.


This. Except for the Ospho part. I have never tried that so I cannot recommend it. The rest of it works quite well.
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1967250s
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 11:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have read many posts about our old gas tank problems and fixes;, including using por15. Why not use some kind of auto paint maybe lacquer or polyurethane? Something that would be fuel proof., you could slosh around in the tank and get good coverage and not flake off like I read about por15 doing. Anyone use any?
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seventyfo
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 4:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can pull the tank without dropping the engine.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1967250s wrote:
I have read many posts about our old gas tank problems and fixes;, including using por15. Why not use some kind of auto paint maybe lacquer or polyurethane? Something that would be fuel proof., you could slosh around in the tank and get good coverage and not flake off like I read about por15 doing. Anyone use any?


Assuming you are working on the tank because there is rust then you either need to remove the rust totally or have a product that can be used over it. Osphos works by chemically converting the rust and creating a hard coating in its place. It will not work over loose or heavy rusts but does fine over a wire brushed or acid cleaned surface.
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tootype2crazy
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well nothing really worked to get the tank clean with it in so I rode my bike to work and pulled out the tank the next day. I did not drop the engine or even lower it. Just taking off the air cleaner, s boot, distributor cap, spark plug wires, coil, heater booster fan, and all the L-jet hoses the tank came out pretty easy. I am now going to power wash the inside and acid treat it. The rust is minimal so I am going to user vinegar and let it sit for a few days.
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air-cooled or nothing for me
1978 Sunroof Deluxe Bus (daily driver)
1978 Transporter (mom's, making into a camper)
1970 Single Cab 2.1 turbo/EFI 6 Rib, 78 front beam, vanagon backing plates on rear (project)
2001 GTI VR6 (wife's)
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Muractic acid (used for concrete etching) and some chain in there and shaking it all up for a good while will also help do the job of rust removal.

Neutralize with plenty of baking soda.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
Muractic acid (used for concrete etching) and some chain in there and shaking it all up for a good while will also help do the job of rust removal.

Neutralize with plenty of baking soda.


Your local hardware store will likely have a pail full of cut chain links right next to their chain cutter. These work fine and the price is right.
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