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65 Vert "Bud"
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bigdog1962
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:00 am    Post subject: 65 Vert "Bud" Reply with quote

I know the name isn't original but it just spoke to me. A little history - I had a 76 that I started to do a body off restoration but was in WAY over my head. I bought the 76 out of Charleston, SC from ebay, sight unseen. Shocked That was the first lesson I learned - don't buy a car sight unseen and be careful of buying cars that live near the beach. It turned out to be a rust bucket but I forged ahead anyway - pans, heaterchannels, wheel wells, frame head, Napoleon's hat, quarter panels - it was really eaten up. Embarassed That's when I began to read advice from people about staying away from these types of vehicles. Oh well, I was already into it. I began anyway and learned a lot. I guess the decision to sell it was finally made when I realized the frame head I paid someone to weld on was welded on too high - when I went to put the body back on, it wouldn't line up, couldn't shut the doors, etc. I made the mistake of having the frame head and napoleon's hat welded on without fitting the body before having it permanently welded. Oh well, I learned another lesson. It didn't run either and I learned that I wanted one that ran. Just way over my head. I learned many lessons along the way and I sold it. I continued to watch the Samba after I got over my pains to find one that wasn't a rust bucket and one that ran. I enjoy working on them so I didn't want one that was completely done but I wasn't going to make the same mistake twice - I don't think the wife would have gone for it. I had to have patience to find the car I was looking for on the East Coast but I finally did. My wife agreed to let me have another go at it - bless her heart! Very Happy 1965 Vert towing it home from North Carolina to it's new home in Augusta, Ga.
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More pictures to follow.
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bigdog1962
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a few pictures - I invite comments, suggestions, etc. I plan on keeping it "somewhat" original but may change things as I go along. I do want it to look like a 65 though. I've been told the engine has been replaced.
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It has a "new top" but it's not installed.
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bigdog1962
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I first got it - about two weeks ago, it wouldn't idle without cutting off. I did some reading - well, a lot of reading about potential causes - and decided to check the idle jet. It wasn't clogged but when I backed it out 1/4 turn, it idled perfectly. Got to put some Locktite on it to keep it stationary. It's idling fast though so I've got to read up on adjusting the idle. The first thing though is to find out what type of carburetor I have - I haven't read enough to figure out what type I have. For instance, is it stamped on it? I'll continue reading and learning.
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I do know about moving the fuel filter - it's posted all over the Samba. I will be moving it soon.
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bigdog1962
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I called and talked to the PO and asked about rust before going to see it. I was told it had "a couple of small holes." Turns out the pans have been patched in several places. But, it looks like the wheel wells, quarter panels heater channels, and frame head are all solid. I'm okay with fixing flat sheet metal when the time comes.
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bigdog1962
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I mentioned the engine. I have been told it is not original to the car - this one I have been told is a 1600 dual port. I haven't started researching what the numbers mean yet.
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bigdog1962
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The frame numbers - yesterday, I looked at the numbers on the frame - I know from reading I need to compare it to the numbers in the front wheel well. From what I have read and understand, it is a 65 vert - but other than that, I'm not sure. For instance, does it tell what month?
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I know, I think, that it's a Karman edition and 1965. Do the numbers mean anything else - month?
#155540856
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bigdog1962
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The dash - some of the lights work and some don't. The gas tank gauge does work! The red light comes on and stays on - got to read up on that too.
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bigdog1962
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few more engine pictures - again comments, info welcome!
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johnnypan
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure the heater channels and cross body support is sound..looks good,Id clean it up and roll it.
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flyboat
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks like a nice project piece. Based on your past experience, this one will be fun to work on and not so much a chore. Enjoy. Keep us posted
Cheers
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RareAir
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bigdog1962 wrote:
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I know, I think, that it's a Karman edition and 1965. Do the numbers mean anything else - month?
#155540856


Built in Feb 1965
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1954 Typ 117
1956 Typ 151
1959 Typ 117
1959 Typ 265
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1966 Typ 151
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RareAir
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bigdog1962 wrote:
I haven't started researching what the numbers mean yet.
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July 1972 1600cc dual port
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1947 Typ 11a
1954 Typ 117
1956 Typ 151
1959 Typ 117
1959 Typ 265
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VOLKSWAGNUT
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RareAir wrote:
[Built in Feb 1965


Yep..

115 = 1965 Sedan
155 = 1965 Convertible..

And no such thing as a Karmann Edition......
The ones built by Karmann were all modified and assembled by the Karmann Coach building firm.. Thats why the emblem is installed.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=448449&highlight=convertible

Looks like a keeper..
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Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
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Rebuilt to drive not decorate
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your intake is a dual port intake. Since if doesn't have an adapter I'd guess the carb is a 34Pict-3. Is it made by Solex, or one of the aftermarket makers?
Carb make and model should be embossed on the left side of the fuel bowl just below where the fuel hose connects to the carb inlet.

It looks like the entire engine was replaced. The distributor is a DVDA, but it appears the PO has left the retard hose disconnected. Since the carb doesn't have a vacuum retard port it seems clear they are not a matched set. No problem here as the DVDA without the vacuum retard will perform similar to an SVDA distributor.

The VR installed above the generator appears to be the newer 12v solid state VR. It would also indicate the entire car has been converted from a 6v electrical system to a 12v. This is good. You should also expect to see a 12-to-6v adapter connected to the wiper motor. This allows a 6v motor to work with a 12v electrical system.

Nice find. Have fun with it.
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bigdog1962
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was able to tinker with Bud today. I went by a local vw shop to ask a few questions and the car was idling higher than it should. The guy came out and looked under the hood, adjusted the idle and noticed the intake manifold boots weren't there/not sealed. I did notice the car was skipping at about 45 mph. He applied a temporary sealer until I had time to get it fixed right. I've got to read up on it cause I don't know how involved that is. He also tightened a few connections on the voltage regulator. So for $15 he adjusted the idle (I haven't had time to read up on it yet), applied the temporary sealer to both intake manifolds (am I saying that right?) and tightened the connections. I must say the car runs great now.
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After that, I needed to identify the carburetor - and Ashman was right about the type. Now I know what to read up on. Very Happy
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bigdog1962
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may remember from an earlier post that the red idiot light is always on. I now know that its not the pulley belt being too loose and I read where it could be the generator brushes. I think I have ruled that one out too as they seem to be okay.
The top brushes
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The bottom brushes
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While reading up on changing out the brushes, I read where a lot of people talked about how hard it was to change the lower ones - particularly getting the screw back in. I watched a youtube video on it and saw where one guy replaced the flathead screw with an allen wrench type screw with a little grease on it. He suggested that as making it easy to reinstall the screw. Seemed like a good idea.
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bigdog1962
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One last thing about the generator, mine has a cover on it and I haven't seen that on others. I'm sure it was made that way, guess it's okay. I guess its intended to keep debris out? It won't cause any heat problems with the generator will it?
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So with the idiot light, I'm going to trace the wiring next - it's been suggested that it could be backwards. The battery keeps a good charge and I haven't had any problems with it.
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Rome
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 3:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hope the rest of the car is truly solid, and not once again misleading by being covered with filler.

Definitely a wiring issue with your voltage regulator. In your photo, the ground screw on the generator ("gen") is not connected to anything. The screw is very small, seen at the top of the gen housing very close to the black backing plate, frontwards of the metal band which holds the gen to the gen stand-

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I've done a similar conversion in the past (1600 12V-based engine into a 6V car) and the ground wire from the vehicle's wiring harness is still attached to the gen's ground wire screw.

Look here for the wiring diagram on a '71 Beetle, representing the engine you have. The connections to the 12V regulator and on the body will match up with those on your regulator and body harness.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/bug_super_8_70.jpg

You should also close up the open areas of the rear engine tin to the left and right of the crank pulley. You should normally not see the ground at all when looking down. You can use a small piece of alu roof flashing cut to shape, and drilled for the sheetmetal screw locations. Make a template out of a paper grocery bag corner, then trace it onto the flashing and cut. Keeping this tin area closed prevents hot air from above the exhaust from getting pulled into the engine compartment and blown over the cylinder heads.

And yes, you said it correctly- intake manifold. The goop is applied to the seals ("boots") at the intake manifold end castings. To replace those boots takes some work with the engine in place...

Get yourself a hose clamp onto the left cardboard fresh air hose to attach it to the fan shroud outlet "snout"- it looks like it is about to slip off. You need those hoses in place to blow cooling air into the heater boxes. This is done even if you have the heaters turned off.
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bigdog1962
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just read the thread about "How much did you spend..." I will be one of those that spends more than the car would ever be sold for - but I have no intentions of ever selling. So here goes...
The generator light wound up being a bad generator - so a new one was installed (not by me). When I asked about the ground wire he said it was grounded to the shroud. The generator light is off now and the battery seems to be holding a charge. Guess I won't reconnect the ground wire.
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I also asked the mechanic to move the fuel filter out of the engine compartment and check a few other things. The filter was moved and a new fuel pump installed. (Not exactly sure why...but....)
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bigdog1962
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The glovebox was locked and I couldn't get it open. The key would turn 90 degrees but the door wouldn't open. So I read in the Samba where somebody took the glovebox out from the trunk and that's what I did. The key turns but doesn't move the latch to unlatch it. Looks like I will be buying a new latch and glove box. The cardboard one that was in there has holes in it.
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I've been looking to replace the sunvisors - actually I only have the left one and it's rotten and the right one is missing. After doing a little searching, it's easy enough to find replacement visors but the hardware for a 65 is next to impossible to find. The clips are available in a lot of different places. I realize I have the necessary hardware except for the clips. I will be ordering visors soon.
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Clips go here
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Left sunvisor to be replaced
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New visor to be ordered
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