Fan Hub Removal

[Randy in Maine]

Type 4 engine. I am trying to replace the rear main seal. I am having a bear of a time removing the fan hub from the crankshaft. In the past I have just put a peice of steel behind the 3 bolts and it just popped out. The hub is made of pretty good and hard steel.

Not working this time. I have heated up the hub after soaking it in solvent for a couple of days. Some hammering on the hub to see if that helps. So far nothing.

I have a gear puller (a harmonic balancer removal puller) that I have threaded on there and in theory, the center bolt should just walk it off the crankshaft.

Not working this time. Not so much as a budge.

Has anyone ever tried to cut the hub with a dremel tool ? I have not tried that before, but I think I could get it in there to cut partially through it in a few places to remove it without damaging the crankshaft.

Any thoughts out there?

[VDubTech]

Hmm I've never had one give me trouble either Randy. I put a piece of steel of some sort behind the bolt holes and use the fan bolts to press it off the crank. I've even used a pair of old Bus keys as the backer. I think you'd be in for a most of the day project cutting it off.
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First Trip in the RustyBus:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=279077&highlight=

[Randy in Maine]

I even "sucker punched" the retired VW Service advisor guy here to get him over to the shop and he told me he had never seen a similar thing. He suggested that if I go that dremel route to cut on both on sides of the woodruff key in case that is the problem.

I have plenty of other things to do today, so I am just letting it sit for a while. I am still thinking about it.

If you think of anything else taht I have not tried, just chime in.

[germansupplyscott]

get the 3 screws nice and tight and give the hub a sharp strike with a hammer. the shock wave through the hub may break it free.
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SL

[Randy in Maine]

[SGKent]

Randy - take the time to look over your work for anything you have forgotten to take off. Have you tried a big washer cut with a slot behind the hub with hardened bolts thru the 3 holes working bolt to bolt until they are extremely tight - then hit it with two hammers at the same time, one from each side. That may deform it enough to pop.

[Randy in Maine]

UPDATE...

It came all last night. I used the "harmonic balancer" gear puller along with a lot of torque on the big bolt that pushes on the center point and it came off as I applied sharp wacks to the pulley using a long punch and a BFH. The hub is pretty dense metal and I don't think applying the heat helped any.

The new seal will be applied using Indian Head gasket cement to the outside of the new seal and oil on the inside of it.

[old DKP driver]

Glad you have the fan pulley removed.
t
I too used the snap-on harmonic pulley tool and, found that if using my
3/8 snap-on air gun that they come off pretty quickly with that shock
of the hammering.
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V.W.owner since 1967

[raygreenwood]

Be sure to check that the three ears are still flat and level. The crank hub is amorse taper. It developes many tons of joining force. When you put it back together makes sure it is dry and has 0 surface rust. Clean it only with prefferably 3000 grit sandpaper....polish only. Clean very well. Oil with thin oil and wipe dry.

Removal of any of these is with a puller.....but back up the ears with thin nuts...not just the threads in the ears. Tghen put tension on the puller and whack it hard on the center....just like a pitman arm puller is designed to be operated. It should always come right off if set up corrctly.

If humidity is an issue...you can wipe the surface with very fine anti sieze like straight nickle. Carefully wipe it all off. Microscopic amounts will remain in the pores. Then clamp tpgether. Ray

[Wasted youth]

[old DKP driver]

I have NEVER put anti-seize on any crankshaft on any Engine in my almost
50 years of building engines. And, never on any of the 500 + type-4 engines
either.

RAY' iS this some more steps that require wearing Boots that you seem to come up with from GOD knows Where??????.

A properly fitted puller OR press will take the fan pulley off Period!

As for reinstalling it o a type 4 tapered crank it is an interference fit.
without any thing else.
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V.W.owner since 1967

[raygreenwood]

[old DKP driver]

I am talking about the Type-4 fan hub R&R and not trying to dis-prove your logic

And no, I don't live in Des Moines Iowa and have never removed or reinstalled
a crankshaft pulley at 40* below ZERO either...But I do know that using the proper method and tools that I will not ever resort to putting Anti-Seize on
a tapered,inteference fit in order to remove it again at 60 degrees below 0
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V.W.owner since 1967

[Wildthings]

Not a matter of temperature, but more of a matter of corrosion. On an engine that has seen salt spray, acid rain, and/or high summer humidity parts and pieces just don't come apart very readily. When I lived on the east coast I lathered antiseize, oil, and grease on everything and still fought a lot of seized parts. Living in Oregon corrosion is almost a non issue. You can typically get a 40 year old gadget apart easier in Oregon than a two year old gadget in New York state.

[poptop tom]

Glad you got it apart, Randy.

What brand of seal are you putting back in?
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'76 Deluxe Campmobile

[raygreenwood]

[SGKent]

anyone care for some Fields chocolate chip cookies? I have some to spare today. Just drop by my desk...

[scrivyscriv]

I pulled the hub off of my crank with a three-jaw puller... The puller got really tight and then suddenly the hub and puller came free and flew off the crankshaft with no warning. Scared the crap out of me!
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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[Wildthings]