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Water cooling for the AWP 1.8 turbo
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fairweather
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2013 3:42 pm    Post subject: Water cooling for the AWP 1.8 turbo Reply with quote

I guess curiosity got the best of me so I decided to switch out the stock air/air cooling system on my Stephans 1.8t conversion. The air system definitely gets the job done and is required to make the CARB happy but I live in CO so no problem there.

I got all the parts from Silicone Intakes but have come to discover that the exact items can be had for much cheaper off Ebay.

The difference in IAT has been huge, much more that I anticipated. My test pieces are Independence and Monarch Passes at 12k and 11k feet. With the air unit I would regularly see 200-210*f temps when outside temps were 80* at the bottom and 60* at the top, give or take. With water cooling the highest IAT I've seen is 117* under the same conditions.

The seat of the pants feel is that it just keeps pulling til you have to slow down for a corner whereas before once IAT hit about 180* the power would start to go flat. On the flats in similar conditions the temps get knocked down from approx 125* to 90*.

Highly recommended upgrade, IMHO.

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The radiator is bolted to a piece of steel angle welded between the existing rods in front of the AC unit. Currently resting on the bumper. The plan in the next 1-10 years is to build a bumper like the Dai syncro but with a hoop to mount the IC radiator like Alaric has done his. This will also allow a slim fan to be mounted to keep air moving at low speeds.

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We'll see how long the Rule baitwell pump lasts...Not a good spot to mount it if you don't have mud flaps.

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Used a hole saw to drill routing holes, comes out above rear control arm.

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Filler cap, tried to make it as high as possible.

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Top view of IC, right rear, with MAP sensor. Almost a straight shot into the intake.

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Bottom view, straight shot across the back for the inlet, eliminates 2 bends compared to stock. Plug those threaded holes if you don't use them, they go all the way through!
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2013 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work!
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2013 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd line those holes that the lines go through!
Even just a piece of split loom can make a big difference.
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Beetsport Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2013 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice job! Great evaluation on temp after the air over air system. I like the installation of the pressure sensor. We just completed a Water over Air system also and created a cooler pipe with sensor in the pipe.

Here are a couple pictures.

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Camera pointed towards the right corner of the engine bay.
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Through the RR tail lens.
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SyncroJack
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2013 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good! What did you use to trigger the pump on? I ran mine off the Alt warning light(blue wire?) through a relay. Alt is on pump is on.

Which radiator/ heat exchanger did you go with?
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fairweather
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 6:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The power comes from the same circuit as the fuel pump, it is part of the conversion wiring harness if you go with SAH.

The radiator is a type 118, 27x7x2.

The IC is a type 50, 11x9x3.5.

Ebay has the best prices that I have found, I got a kit from Silicone Intakes for the van and then decided to do my 1.6td Rabbit and got the same rad via ebay for 50$ less and as far as I can tell they are the exact item.

I went back and forth on lining the edges of the holes but in the end I sized the holes to be a snug fit. If it were as thin as body metal or a more critical system I def would have used protection but that area has thicker metal. After 6 months I haven't seen any chafing issues but I'll keep an eye on it.

SAH stamped silicone? Very fancy! That's also a very fancy overflow for the IC system!
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jtrashy
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i think im clear on this. I have a SAH 1.8t and super psyched on this upgrade.

do you remember about how much heater hose was needed? and were you able to use existing 2.5" hoses for connection to intake?

so items needed....
1- radiator type 118
1- IC type 50
1- filler cap
1- water/air pump
4- 90' hose connectors
????-feet of heater hose
numerous clamps

anything else???
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fairweather
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That list plus this:

28' of 3/4 heater hose
(1) 2" - 2.5" silicone joiner turbo plumbing - IC
(1) 2.5" 60* silicone joiner IC-Intake
(4) 1/2" male NPT - 3/4 barb fittings
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onwardtothestars
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let us know how long your baitwell pump lasts.
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zeohsix
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something I definitely will do after I get CARB sticker @ referee station. Especially since my Odessy battery is blocking airflow to intercooler. Because I'm a glutton for punishment I decided to mount SAI pump to far side of battery, a little massaging with a little effing hammer and everything made it! I succeeded in packaging 50lbs of stuff into a sandwich bag Very Happy

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outwesty
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice. Heres my set up in a TDI application....not much different really. I had the silicone intakes radiator and returned it and got the one from CXracing as its a few mm's thinner. (On ebay cheaper as well) I was able to take a stock Vanagon grill and mold it around it with a heat gun...something you may want to consider...I had a few golf ball sized rocks kick up from trucks on the Dalton in AK. My highest temps are right around yours...

EDIT - I'm curious how that pump works. I run the Bosch one and its done fine for 60k miles. I'm amazed at how much water they move....It will empty a 5 gallon bucket very quickly. I had the same filler you have in the engine compartment but removed it as it was not necessary. I fill the sytem from the front radiator with the van on a ridiculously steep incline and I've had no issues. I used to have the pump near where you do but moved it to the rear behind the drivers tail light and it made fillling the system easier.

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Last edited by outwesty on Wed Dec 11, 2013 11:21 pm; edited 1 time in total
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SyncroJack
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome work with the heat gun on the lower grill! Looks great!
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outwesty
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 11:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SyncroJack wrote:
Awesome work with the heat gun on the lower grill! Looks great!


Thanks. I should mention Its actually two stock grills. I cut the center section out of the stock one and then screwed the second molded one to the existing ends of the stock grill.
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jtrashy
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

about to install
- which side of the IC does the bosch pump go, ie input or output?
- which side does the fill cap go?

pump inline to input, fill cap inline output?

Thanks
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

in my recent WAIC install I put the pump drawing from the radiator and fairly close to it. as the pump I used doesn't suck very well but pushes fine.
think of the front radiator as a bucket with fins. you're drawing water out of the bottom of said slotted bucket.

the WAIC certainly is an added cost and complexity but it does keep intake air temps much much closer to ambient.. I've only been on the road a very few miles with my install yet. so I'll give some better numbers after a July trip.

it does get heat soaked when sitting a little though.. sitting idling temps got up to *114f till I had some air moving over it for a few miles.. then back down to *98f ish with ambient temps in the mid 80s.. this at highway speeds.
mine is right up tight to the radiator where coolant fan kicks on and holds at 205*f
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davevickery
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

danfromsyr wrote:
...
it does get heat soaked when sitting a little though.. sitting idling temps got up to *114f till I had some air moving over it for a few miles.. then back down to *98f ish with ambient temps in the mid 80s.. this at highway speeds.

Is 114 the highest you've seen. What about running it at highway speeds then coming into stop and go town traffic? Or running it hard from light to light in town? Just looking for a comparison number to my conversion that has 2 air to air intercoolers.
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

haven't run it that much yet to give any good empirical numbers. as I've been having a popping out of 1st issue with the trans.
the highest so far at 114 was after a highway drive then sitting outside my Girlfriends work for 15+ mins idling waiting for her to get out..

any other highway to surface street has been well less than that..

I plan to take numbers and notes once I get to reliably drive it.

so Dave what's your #'s with the dual air to air units? we're just as curious on that end..
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davevickery
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll check, I can't remember.

Last edited by davevickery on Sat Jul 05, 2014 8:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
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jtrashy
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

system installed, works great! Ill have solid before and after numbers on monday, Ill post them then.

I am seeing higher engine temps now, I ASSume from the decrease in radiator surface area due to the IC radiator mounted in front of it.
Anyone experience the same?
I have the tube bumpers with diamond plate but am going to cut some of the diamond plate so I can mount the radiator 2" lower hoping to get my normal engine temps back.
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Steve M.
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm thinking one rock jumping out from under the rear tire of the guy in front of your will kill your radiator. Maybe think about putting a good strong wire mesh screen in front of it with small holes to defeat the highway meteors!

http://www.mcnichols.com/viewer.htm
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