Share your wrenching tips and tricks!

[Merian]

Thx, I will give that a try

[Nuthin2It]

Can there possibly be anyone else out there who didn't know this? I was torquing down the brake calipers on my Mercedes. I have a Sturtevant non-ratcheting torque wrench. Of course, I had limited movement of the wrench where it was positioned. After turning the wrench as far as it could go before hitting part of the steering linkage, I could not lift it off the bolt and move it back far enough to get onto the bolt before hitting the wheel well. After 40 years of having this problem working on my cars, a brilliant idea flashed into my head. What if I took the socket off the wrench and rotated it 1/4 turn? It fit the head of the bolt and I could go through another arc. No need for universal joints or long extensions. I can't wait to find out what brilliant idea I have 40 years from now.
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1985 Westfalia 15 degree EA288 Boxeer

[61Scout]

Well, this isn't exactly a wrenching tip, but just a trick. If you have a damaged seal this is one way to get some extra mileage out of it.

Here's what I use for this repair: Yes, that's just a plastic drinking straw. Make sure you get a decent quality one, and the one that's the closest size to the seal you're repairing. Pliobond is just a runny rubber cement conveniently held in a tube. Anyway, get the surface very clean. I use an alcohol prep pad. Then apply the glue to the edges of the damaged seal. Insert the straw inside the seal to bridge the gap between the two damaged sides. Then bring the seal together. I like to add some blue tape over it and let it sit a day.

Here's the end result after the glue has dried:

-Kevin
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1986 Westfalia Weekender Wolfsburg, RJE 2.3
1985 Tin Top, Subie 2.2 + 5MT
Floppy Mirrors no more: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=653018&highlight=
Remove the front spindle nut with ease: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=679567&highlight=
Remove the rear wheel bearing housing without messing with the big 46mm nut: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=679507&highlight=

-Nec Spe, Nec Metu

[Freshdub]

Years and years of working on all makes and models that suffer albertan salt during winter ive learned one invaluable tip for bolts nuts or screws that are rusted or seized. This is especially useful for the cheap metal used on less important fasteners, once they seize up a bit the head will strip before it will break loose. The phillips screws that hold mudflaps on nowadays are brutal for it.

Before trying to loosen, simply try and tighten the fastener. You will probably get just a nudge, but its all thats required. Will loosen off with a fraction of the torque to break it free.

Wont work on extreme torques (like an axle nut) but its a simple trick to try!

[[email protected]]

[cjonesak]

I just did this one on my 1.8 engine, I broke the oil pan gasket right at one of the bolt holes. So I took a sticker I had laying around and trimmed it down to the width of the gasket. Then I stuck it on there and it held it together long enough for me to get the oil pan back on. I knew everything was lined up right because when I stuck the bolt in that hole I was pushing right through the sticker material. Don't have any miles on the engine yet but I suspect things are going to be just fine.

[rubbachicken]

don't waste time double nutting to make a drain plug tool, these are joining nuts, ace hardware has them cheap enough, the m10 nut is 17mm hex, i expect there's an america thread that'll give you 9/16th, close enough to 14mm hex.

[RicoS]

[zak99B5]

[zak99B5]

[dhaavers]

[RicoS]

[RicoS]

The single best tip I can offer up is to buy the best tools you can find, especially for those hard to deal with situations like the brake system, exhaust, CV joints, etc. Snap-On and Proto tools will do the work while inferior brands will just cause frustration.

If you don't want to spend the long green up front for complete sets, buy the necessary tools one at a time as needed.

As an example -

I used to dread changing out calipers on my Volvos because, although Volvo was thoughtful enough to use brass line nuts and copper alloy brake lines, the Craftsman line wrenches I had would invariably round off the soft brass line nuts. Then, I would have to replace the brake lines along with the calipers.

Finally, I wised up and bought the necessary Proto line wrench. That one wrench cost more than a full set of Harbor Freight dreck. In the end, it was cheaper because I never had to buy another Volvo brake line or waste time installing one.

Richie

[dhaavers]

[RicoS]

[T3 Pilot]

Here's another one we used today to remove a rounded off 19mm nut. These are the nuts on the Lower Control Arm bushing bolts. We used a 6" ridgid pipe wrench. Put the wrench into position, bump it up against the frame with the impact wrench. Those jaws really bite into the steel and effectively held the nut while the impact gun did its job on the bolt.
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1988 Vanagon

The most important part in every vehicle is the nut behind the wheel......

[Merian]

whenever I buy an old used vehicle (which I've done too many times BTW) I get under it and hose down every fastener I can see with Kroil. I do that for my yearly inspection too for several years.

another trick is to hit the underside of a newly aquired vehicle with a pressure washer - use hot water if you can - cleanliness is useful for repairs & inspections

[IdahoDoug]

I do that, but more selectively. If I'm planning to replace the steering box for instance, I'll slide under and hit every bolt the project will involve. Really makes for a relaxing wrenching session when all the fasteners pop loose right away.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[vanagonjr]

[Merian]