completely stuck and ready to thow the buggy out

[crashtestdumba$$]

I desperately need a qualified person that I happily pay to come over and assemble the front end of my buggy. I know it sounds like a easy job. Apparently it isnt. I even have all the tools and parts.

This is an SOS. If there is anyone in the 94513 or nearby area that wants to earn some money contact me.

Otherwise this fucker is going in the delta.
_________________
Greg

http://buggerd.shutterfly.com

[Dale M.]

Email me your address and I will come take it off your hands at no charge to you, just sign over pink slip.....

Actually what seems to be the problem.... Front ends are not that complicated....

Dale
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[BL3Manx]

I'm in 95620, the other side of the river from you. I can help if you need it.

Are you talking about a front suspension, if so is it K/L pin or ball joint?

Or are you talking about putting the hood on the body?

[LeeVW]

I'm way too far south, or I would be right over. I wouldn't accept any money, though. I just like working on other people's cars for a change.

At any rate, Volkswagens are NOT easy to work on! They are easy to jury-rig, but to do things the right way, that takes finesse and skill. Experience counts, and that experience is gained through frustration, bloody knuckles, and lots of swear words.

If you're having trouble with putting the torsion leaves back into their housing, welcome to the club. You will eventually get it. Sometimes it takes hours, sometimes they go right in. It never makes sense.

Let us know what you're working on and we'll share some hints. We have all felt the desire to cast our buggies into the great abyss, but we stuck with it for some reason. I think it's the support of our fellow addicts. You can do this.

Lee

[BL3Manx]

To get stubborn torsion leaves in, put a small zip tie around the stack then pull a couple of the middle ones back an inch or so. Work the stack through the hole then push the remaining ones through.

[crashtestdumba$$]

Here are the parts I have:

cb performance parts
6279 6279 Adjustable Beam - Baja Bug (to 65)
6298 6298 Torsion Leaves to 65 - Heavy Duty

appletree auto
A1015F FORGED OFFROAD SPINDLES KP
A2015 STOCK KING PIN TRAILING ARMS

new linkpin/kingpin kits, bushings, reamer, grub screws and hardware

problems found:

after prepping the carriers with new bushing, reamed nicely and ran the kingpin into it as a test fit. It slides in perfectly smooth and does not bind.

If I attempt to install the new components from appletree [which I think are EMPI in flavor] the castings are so poor on all the parts that nothing wants to line up.

I have a shop press here and not bashing on stuff. Doing it right.

The spindle will not turn once the king pin runs through it and into the second bushing. This seems like the inner race of the spindle is not strait. The KP will bind and it takes brute force to move the spindle inside the carrier. Am I to ream the casting too??? Sounds wrong...

THe right and left side measurements for the linkpin spacers are very different and the left side is measuring at 11.69mm out of spec. Its off the reference chart. I cannot shift [or bash] on the arm to run it farther onto the leaf springs. Right side is right at 8.55mm. It looks like its seated as far as it will go as the grub screws are aligning with their intended resting place.

I have disk brakes on the front and the spacer used on the OG spindle seems to cast into the newly provided one. I put a micrometer on it and it is slightly off from what I had but seems to fit.

When I tighten down the brake rotor assembly on the spindle for a test fit it never comes to a stop when tightening down the spindle nut. I thought this odd. It will tighten but the bearing never gets enough tention to stop rotating. I thought that I am to tighten it down until it presents enough friction to stop the movement of the wheel and then you back it off a little. If I am wrong on this one cool...if not then I have yet another fitment issue.

Just real bummed out. The buggy has been in pieces for a few months now and I had a bunch of time and money into getting what I thought were the right parts for the project.

Thank you my fellow samba peeps for the kind words and assurances.

If anyone wants to come on over and lend a hand it is much appreciated. The buggy will remain on dry land for bit longer Not gonna take a swim the delta as previously threatened.

Greg the groaner
_________________
Greg

http://buggerd.shutterfly.com

[BL3Manx]

Greg, I would set the front discs and aftermarket spindles aside and put the original drums and spindles back on the front. The last thing you need on the front of a swb fiberglass buggy is more powerful front brakes. Buggies are so light that when you hit the brakes hard even the stock drums lock up the front end and it skids uselessly. The stock spindles will probably fit better too

I would also replace the heavy duty front torsion leaves with the stock leaves. They are intended for something heavy like a baja with a full cage. The second to the last thing you need on a buggy is a harder front suspension. Most long time buggy owners experiment with removing leaves from the front or even completely remove one stack and replace it with a freely rotating tie rod. I think the stock torsion leaves will solve the problem of the front trailing arm alignment

[crashtestdumba$$]

Thanks for the suggestion!

however, the car had disk on it. The intended goal my little upgrade was to replace the beam, arms, leaf springs, consumable parts, make it adjustable, add strength, new spindles and carriers. Then go play on some rocks.

Not going back to drums.

The stock spindle and carrier are sitting here but really wanted to uplift them. I can clean up the old parts reuse but that defeated the purpose and intended goal of adding strength to the front suspension.

Only moving forward and not back on this one I am afraid..

thanks for the suggestion tho!

Thanks again for listening to my rant above. Sheesh! I have not been that beaten down by little project ever! Got to me a little bit. I walked strait in from the garage to the computer and sent my little love note to the gang.

Thanks again to all for putting up with my outburst.

And...if anyone is interested in coming over and looking at this with me let me know.
_________________
Greg

http://buggerd.shutterfly.com

[SBD]

As far as the spindles fitting, did you install the new bushings and ream both bushings at the same time, ?

[crashtestdumba$$]

yup

the king pin fitment is perfect
_________________
Greg

http://buggerd.shutterfly.com

[monomanx]

I would suggest taking BL3s suggestion re the disc brakes. If you are planning on driving on any type of gravely, sandy, rocky grade and are trying to slide down the hill, you will have zero steering control with discs up front. They will lock up and that will be that.

When you are putting the KP through the carrier and the spindle, are you putting the fiber spacer and steel spacers on it? That will sometimes make the spindle difficult to turn but they will wear in.

As well, once the entire front end is together, the steering wheel and box will exert a great deal of torque in order to turn move the spindles.

It sounded to me like the bushings were reamed out of alignment but you say they were both reamed at the same time (in line).

I am stumped but someone will come up with the right solution.

Chris