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one4house
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Joined: July 18, 2009
Posts: 1121
Location: Sherman Texas
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 Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 10:08 am Post subject: |
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As far as the type 4 goes, 1910 (96 mm X 66 mm) or 2056 (96 mm x 71 mm)?
If I have to put a lot of work into the 66 mm crank and rods, I might as well just find a good used set of 71 mm crank and rods and go from there. I will be sticking with the 1.8 bus heads (I still need to locate another). Just looking for some input. The thread I have over in Performance seems to have lost steam.
I'm just looking for advantages and disadvantages of each. I am a noob to the ole type 4 world.
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Clatter
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| Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 11:20 pm Post subject: |
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If you want to adjust your steering box, you can use an oil pressure switch. it will fit right into the allen hole, then you can turn it with a big crescent wrench or the like... FWIW.
I just posted on your motor thread in the 'performance/engines' forum.
Really good info there IMHO.
Some of those guys that posted there really know their stuff and have a lot of experience.
Might be worth a re-read or two when it comes time for to pick a cam.
And, there's always this... more than you could ever read about the type 4.
http://shoptalkforums.com/viewforum.php?f=1
It all depends upon your budget and time/ambition level.
My strategy is to dig up as many junk motors and core engines as I can.
Type 4s that weren't in busses can have all good parts that just need cleaned and assembled.. Seriously!
The last one, I even re-used the main bearings, and why not? they were fine.
It even had a Web 86 and some perfect OG Johnson lifters too.
Found it under a tree for $50...
If you found a set of 72-74 bus heater boxes and all of the tins, that was a score and hard to find. There are other scores out there for you.
Get your beetle motor in and running and enjoy your car. there's always plenty to do.
Take you time, keep an eye out, and you will find some (good) type 4 motor parts for super cheap, I promise....
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one4house
Samba Member
Joined: July 18, 2009
Posts: 1121
Location: Sherman Texas
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| Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 8:55 am Post subject: |
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| Clatter wrote: |
| If you want to adjust your steering box, you can use an oil pressure switch. it will fit right into the allen hole, then you can turn it with a big crescent wrench or the like... FWIW. |
I love tips like this. Thank you.
| Quote: |
I just posted on your motor thread in the 'performance/engines' forum.
Really good info there IMHO.
Some of those guys that posted there really know their stuff and have a lot of experience.
Might be worth a re-read or two when it comes time for to pick a cam.
And, there's always this... more than you could ever read about the type 4.
http://shoptalkforums.com/viewforum.php?f=1
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I have a thread going over there too. It is a little slow moving for my taste, so I tend to threads on both sites. Let's just say I have a lot of free time at work.
| Quote: |
It all depends upon your budget and time/ambition level.
My strategy is to dig up as many junk motors and core engines as I can.
Type 4s that weren't in busses can have all good parts that just need cleaned and assembled.. Seriously!
The last one, I even re-used the main bearings, and why not? they were fine.
It even had a Web 86 and some perfect OG Johnson lifters too.
Found it under a tree for $50...
If you found a set of 72-74 bus heater boxes and all of the tins, that was a score and hard to find. There are other scores out there for you.
Get your beetle motor in and running and enjoy your car. there's always plenty to do.
Take you time, keep an eye out, and you will find some (good) type 4 motor parts for super cheap, I promise.... |
That is the plan right now. It is my nice-weather daily. The only issue I have right now is hot park heat soak. I am getting that one better and better each day.
Thanks again for the tips between all the threads I have going. I find you can reach a whole different group of people depending on which area of the forum you post.
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Multi69s
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Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 5363
Location: Lefty, CA
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| Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 9:21 am Post subject: |
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When you say a bore of 96mm, are you going to bore out the stock cylinders, or get new ones? Getting multiple engines is a very god idea. I started with a 2L that was running and a 1700 that was for parts. However after I tore down both, the 1700 had a new case and the heads were in better shape, so I actually used just as many parts, if not more from the 1700 than the 2L.
Also, when you get close to doing the conversion. Bolt together an empty engine (Case, Block Heads, manifolds, carbs) and use it to make your motor mounts. It is a lot safer and easier to do with the weight cut in half. Plus if you plan on using some form of mid mount like I did, I would highly recommend that you use helicoils or timeserts in the transmission mounting threads. The metal is soft
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Auto Trans Rebuild http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516066&highlight=
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one4house
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Joined: July 18, 2009
Posts: 1121
Location: Sherman Texas
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| Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 9:24 am Post subject: |
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| Multi69s wrote: |
When you say a bore of 96mm, are you going to bore out the stock cylinders, or get new ones? Getting multiple engines is a very god idea. I started with a 2L that was running and a 1700 that was for parts. However after I tore down both, the 1700 had a new case and the heads were in better shape, so I actually used just as many parts, if not more from the 1700 than the 2L.
Also, when you get close to doing the conversion. Bolt together an empty engine (Case, Block Heads, manifolds, carbs) and use it to make your motor mounts. It is a lot safer and easier to do with the weight cut in half. Plus if you plan on using some form of mid mount like I did, I would highly recommend that you use helicoils or timeserts in the transmission mounting threads. The metal is soft |
As far as the 96 mm, I am going new. I have a PM to someone on the site that has offered me a 15 year old set of NPR 96's that he has had sitting on his shelf. Never used. I do not know much about them yet.
As far as engine mounting, we are on the same page as far as mocking up before final assembly. My brother and I are going to figure something out before we get to the final install phase. That might be a few months off though.
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one4house
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Location: Sherman Texas
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| Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 11:47 am Post subject: |
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I decided to go ahead and finish up the fuel pump installed today. Went ahead and installed the inertia switch to turn off the power to the fuel pump in the case of a wreck. Everything went as planned. I put a picture up so if anyone else is installing one of these I can have an idea of where I put mine. You can see the power wire that I had ran to the fuel pump coming out of the firewall, running to the switch and then heading down to the for fuel pump thAt is mounted to the front beam.
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one4house
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Multi69s
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one4house
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Posts: 1121
Location: Sherman Texas
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| Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 10:33 am Post subject: |
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| Multi69s wrote: |
| I would go with the 28s the 30s are on the big side for a 1600 |
Do you think the 30's could be used on the type 4, 2056 once I get it done? I was leaning towards 30's because of maybe being able to use them in both applications. 30's in the 2056 might provide the low end torque I need with the automatic.
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one4house
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Location: Sherman Texas
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| Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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| Multi69s wrote: |
| I would go with the 28s the 30s are on the big side for a 1600 |
On second thought, I think the 28's should be the ones for a stock 1600. I am about to hit the order button. 
So.....
Venturi 28 mm (thanks Modok)
Mains 115
Idle ?
Airs ?
Remember, this is all at 6300' elevation.
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Bobnotch
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Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 6:38 am Post subject: |
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| one4house wrote: |
| Multi69s wrote: |
| I would go with the 28s the 30s are on the big side for a 1600 |
On second thought, I think the 28's should be the ones for a stock 1600. I am about to hit the order button.
So.....
Venturi 28 mm (thanks Modok)
Mains 115
Idle ?
Airs ?
Remember, this is all at 6300' elevation. |
I'd ask John at Aircooled.net, and see what he recommends for jetting.
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Multi69s
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one4house
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Bobnotch
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one4house
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Joined: July 18, 2009
Posts: 1121
Location: Sherman Texas
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| Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 8:26 am Post subject: |
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[quote="one4house"]
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| So, do the new carbs play nice with the AT? |
Somewhat. I am still trying to get that sorted out. With the 34 ict's I had a balance tube running between the two manifolds. This one I decided to go with a single barb drilled into the #1 cylinder of the passenger side manifold. These carbs definitely have a different vacuum signal.
It still shifts into 2nd too early and doesn't want to shift into third. Now it REALLY doesn't want to shift into third. Last night I pulled the vacuum module off and put an 1/8" washer behind to shim the module. I still have some of the adjustment screw to go, but I figured the shim would have the same effect. I think I was wrong with that. It also likes to downshift into 2nd gear as you slow to a stop. It did not do that with the other setup, and I do not like it at all. I think that would add some unnecessary wear and tear.
This morning I had to tear the carbs down and redo the venturi. The CB venturi are not marked at the top like the originals. I had the venturi in upside down. I have been messing with that this morning. I will get the shifting figured out in due time.
On first run, with the venturi in correct and a new tune, it was still a lot lean in the idle jet. Right now I do not have another set of idles close enough to try and correct it. I dealing with a pretty extreme bog till it transfers to the main jets. Once I am above 2500 or so RPM it runs nice. I just need some bigger idles.
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one4house
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| Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 1:36 pm Post subject: |
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So far so good. I am still in the tuning phase. I am waiting on a set of pump jets and the 4th 55 idle jet. My local guy only had 3 55's on hand.
One thing that I can report, with very little data gathered, is that my mileage has increased quite a bit. I was averaging 18.5 mpg over the last few months with the 34 ICT's. This is city driving.
The first two tanks I have figured with the DRLA's have been 19.5 mpg with the wrong idle jets. And today I got 22.5 mpg. The more I tune the better it will get. I might put the LM1 on it for final tuning. I haven't decided yet. I am having fun doing it the hard way. 
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Bobnotch
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Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 6:56 am Post subject: |
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| one4house wrote: |
So far so good. I am still in the tuning phase. I am waiting on a set of pump jets and the 4th 55 idle jet. My local guy only had 3 55's on hand.
One thing that I can report, with very little data gathered, is that my mileage has increased quite a bit. I was averaging 18.5 mpg over the last few months with the 34 ICT's. This is city driving.
The first two tanks I have figured with the DRLA's have been 19.5 mpg with the wrong idle jets. And today I got 22.5 mpg. The more I tune the better it will get. I might put the LM1 on it for final tuning. I haven't decided yet. I am having fun doing it the hard way. |
Keep in mind that with the FI and AT, you would only get between 22 and 24 with city driving.  It's out on the highway or country lanes where they get their best mileage, as you're not doing a lot of stop-starting.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Donnie strickland
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| Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 7:23 am Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Keep in mind that with the FI and AT, you would only get between 22 and 24 with city driving. It's out on the highway or country lanes where they get their best mileage, as you're not doing a lot of stop-starting. |
Yep. That's exactly what I get. In highway driving I get 26-27.
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one4house
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Location: Sherman Texas
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| Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 7:35 am Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| one4house wrote: |
So far so good. I am still in the tuning phase. I am waiting on a set of pump jets and the 4th 55 idle jet. My local guy only had 3 55's on hand.
One thing that I can report, with very little data gathered, is that my mileage has increased quite a bit. I was averaging 18.5 mpg over the last few months with the 34 ICT's. This is city driving.
The first two tanks I have figured with the DRLA's have been 19.5 mpg with the wrong idle jets. And today I got 22.5 mpg. The more I tune the better it will get. I might put the LM1 on it for final tuning. I haven't decided yet. I am having fun doing it the hard way. |
Keep in mind that with the FI and AT, you would only get between 22 and 24 with city driving. It's out on the highway or country lanes where they get their best mileage, as you're not doing a lot of stop-starting. |
I know. That is why I said "with very little data collected." We will see where it really falls with a few more tanks and me finishing the tune. I am waiting on jets still.
It is a positive sign though.
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one4house
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Location: Sherman Texas
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| Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 7:36 am Post subject: |
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| Donnie strickland wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Keep in mind that with the FI and AT, you would only get between 22 and 24 with city driving. It's out on the highway or country lanes where they get their best mileage, as you're not doing a lot of stop-starting. |
Yep. That's exactly what I get. In highway driving I get 26-27. |
Once I get the tune where I want it, I will make a trip to Denver and back to hang out with my brother. That is usually my "highway mileage" test. There is a lot of elevation change between here and there. It puts the engine and tune to the test.
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