truck fridge 65+trojan batteries+ac/dc

[yycwesty]

So I'm really trying to make the decision of eliminating the dometic and buying a truckfridge 65. But in order to do that I would want to be sure it is really worth it. My criteria would be being able to boondock for a couple of days. So looking to put in the 6volt trojans and probably a 80-100 watt solar panel in the luggage rack.

So my question is, how long could I expect to be able to run my fridge in a moderate climate (say 80-90F) with the 2 trojan 6 volts and a smaller solar panel. Only other thing would be some rope like LEDS.

I have looked via search with little luck and the postings I did see more or less said maybe a day or so before needing a charge. My thoughts are if I can't run it longer than that is it really worth investing a $1000 or so to complete this transformation (including the solar and batteries).

lastly those who have bought the truck fridge, do you purchase the 110 volt option or save some money and go with the 12 volt only.

Cheers
Al

[Phishman068]

I only have a TF49, but they're more or less the same so....

Buy the AC option. You'll use it and be glad you have it.
225ah of battery and an 80watt panel (hard mounted) is enough to run about 2 days well in the heat of the summer. I can go 5+ days pretty easily in the fall and spring though.
If camping more than 2 hot days, you'll need more solar or to move the vehicle. I plan to invest in another panel that can follow the sun.

Its a heck of alot better than the Dometic.
I LOVEEEEEEEEEE my fridge.
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[davevickery]

I thought I some posts about battery life and the truckfridges. I usally search using google and include thesamba.com in my search when I want to find things that I can't through the site search.

I thought I have read and talked to people can run indefinitely with an 85 Watt hard mounted panel.

I have 220 amp hours and a DC only TF-65 it will run it at least 3 days down to 50% of battery power. I think it would go 4-5 days, but temps cool off in Colorado at night even though days get up to 90 a lot. I can't imagine the power usage in Canada would be worse though.

[dobryan]

I have an Edgestar 65, 115Ah marine battery, 100W solar panel with MPPT controller and I can run indefinitely in 80 degree sunny weather (and that includes ising a laptop for 4 hours a day and charging phones, etc....).

On just battery power alone I can go 2 days....YMMV.
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[Sir Sam]

I have the TF65 and costco deep cycle batteries, initially I had 1 battery 110Ah, and it would last about a day during hot weather(80-95 outside the van). Now with 2 batteries it will last long enough that I haven't been able to drain the batteries down.

I would say 2 deep cycle batteries with solar would extend that for several more days. Depending on your solar output you might be able to run indefinitely on the solar/battery combo. The solar setup I have planned in good conditions(read not at theoretical max output but about 3/4 of it) will keep up with my daily consumption. With the reserve of the extra battery and the direct line from the alternator via the battery isolator I have not seen any issues so far, I expect the solar will extend my off engine range.

I got the TF65 with the AC/DC.....but only because they were out of the DC only model. I can count on a single hand the number of times the AC has been used, I'm glad I didn't pay for it. When I bought it the AC option was $100 more.

For $20 you can get a float battery charger that will keep your 12V batteries charged up and power your fridge if you ever get 120V access.
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'91 Carat Westy

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[bizbebl]

[mtnwater]

Short answer is yes. I had a similar setup in my adventurewagen for years - two trojan T105's and a dometic 12 volt ac/dc fridge that uses the same danfoss compressor as the truckfridge. Even without a solar panel, we could dry camp for 3 days comfortably in summer temps. Good luck.

[joseph928]

I have a TF-49 2 blue tops and 225 watts of solar. Mppt controller . Never needed 110 volts, glad I did not get that in my TF. In good weather like when you have a lot of sun I can run it fine on my 85 watt solar in bad weather you need all 225 watts to keep it up, and the rest of the acc. that I use. Can go 2.5 days with no sun, but with 225 watts can get 30 watts even in a bad rain storm. Now 6" of snow is another story! Also the 85 watt in the front is a remote mount, can be put up tp 50 feet away.

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[ChilliConCarnage]

I have the Vitrfrigo C51iSAC and once accidentally left it on for 6 days (on the medium setting). The 140 watt solar panel and 120ah of batteries kept everything going just fine. We've loved our fridge very much. Great upgrade.

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[yycwesty]

Thanks Guys

Sounds like a fridge replacement would be a good thing even though the other one runs really well.

I think if I could get 3 days with the batteries and solar I would be on it and from what has been posted that sounds viable.

[MarkWard]

[nocreditnodebt]

I have the Vitrifrigo c51is and consumption on days with mid 80's daytime and mid 70's nighttime I use about 24 amp hours in 24 hours. Mid 70's daytime and mid 60's night time I am under 18 amp hours per 24 hours.

But I have added extra insulation, and the cooling unit has no chance to recycle preheated air making it more efficient by a good factor in my estimation/opinion. Allowing the condenser/ compressor to breathe properly can greatly reduce battery consumption.

How long you can ultimately last with 100 watts of solar depends on how much sunlight you get and how much other devices besides the fridge draw, and the health of the t-105's.

I went for the DC only option on my VF, as when I have access to 110 volts I want a real Charger/ Converter to recharge the batteries ASAP, and also power any DC items that would otherwise be drawing from the batteries.

The AC/DC fridges have their own mini converter inside the compressor controller to power them from AC grid power. The AC feature on mine was an extra C note. I'd rather put that C note toward an Iota dls55 or PD9260 and be able to feed the depleted group 27's with everything they can take while powering the fridge and anything else DC at the same time

As of now I have a 2/12/25 amp Schumacher charger that has no issues acting like a real converter, on the 12 amp setting. On the 2 or 25 amp setting it shuts off with the cycling load of the fridge or other devices. Not sure I even NEED the PD or Iota. Although they are more robust and likely much quieter

[Howesight]

I have the DC only TF-65 and a 110 amp/hour deep cycle and, so far, no Solar, but that is coming.

Anyway, I get a full weekend in summer, but I do the following:

1. On the way to camp, I run the TF65 at max cold, making use of the alternator power at 14.5 volts. Usually, we have pre-frozen ice cubes (for cocktail hour) or frozen food in the freezer section and this helps with thermal mass. Most of the places we go involve at least two hours driving, usually longer.

2. I ALWAYS use a digital thermometer mounted outside the fridge, temp probe inside. The TF has a pretty primitive temp control system that basically varies the on/off duty cycle time, leaving the actual temp to vary with ambient to a degree. So, I adjust temp to go with ambient to produce 3 or 4 degrees Celsius when on batteries. This means on cold nights, I reduce temp control to minimum.

3. We almost always do a trip, even if a short one, during our camping weekends, and on those occasions, there is some battery re-charging occurring.

4. I always charge my house battery on a smart charger after each camping weekend and once a month in any case, ensuring that a charge including an equalizing component (over 15 volts) occurs.

If you go solar, having thought a lot about this, you might consider what I have decided to do. I have decided to go with a folding 120 Watt solar panel that will store in my luggage rack, but will not be attached to the luggage rack. I don't like watching and adjusting the temp setting (which I do mainly to preserve battery power) and this is my main reason for wanting solar - - set and forget is easier.

But . . . I will still have to set up and move my solar panel, so there is a better lunch, just not a free one.
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'86 Syncro Westy SVX

[must50302]

I have the AC/DC one and I love it. I painted the black trim the same exact same brown color to match . Also made a small drawer on top. Came out better then I thought it would. Found a very close in color formica laminate.

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[maco70]

very good comments.
One thing i read before about the truckfridge.... is that true that they can be noisy?

... they are working about 1/3 of the time, with a compressor noise, which is different than a Dometic on propane, which is very quiet.

Am i right?

Thanks to all.
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Martin from Montréal

1986 Vanagon GL full camper westfalia
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[must50302]

I can't hear mine running at all! Seems quite to me on AC or DC
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[joseph928]

[yycwesty]

Joseph. You were saying that you put more insulation around the TF. Do you have the larger TF or the smaller. Any pictures on where/how you did this with the insulation. Seems by keeping it cooler you would reduce the amount of energy to keep it cool.

I think some folks have mentioned also adding additonal fans. Would anyone also have pics/input on this mod as well

Cheers
Al

[nocreditnodebt]

The compressor controller can handle powering 0.5 amps of fans with double that for a second or two when the compressor kicks on.

Simple to add another low draw fan to extract air from within the compressor condenser compartment. You don't need a lot of air movement. 30 to 50 cfm is plenty and will greatly aid initial cool downs and overall efficiency.

Computer Fans vary greatly in amount of air moved for electricity consumed and noise made.
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g36/Fans.html?id=hxM5gixb

Here is the PDF sheet for the AC/DC controller:
http://www.ra.danfoss.com/TechnicalInfo/Literature...00g402.pdf

My Vitrifrigo came with a resistor in the thermostat circuit to increase compressor rpm from 2000 (minimum) to 2500. This also increases amp draw.

The slower the compressor speed while still remaining under a 50% duty cycle is most efficient. I removed my resistor.

I installed an internal fan too. This does not make the fridge use less energy, but it does allow quicker cool downs and a lesser setting on the dial to be used, as well as much more even temperatures within. When I have solar excess and remember I crank up the fridge to about 2/3 of max, and then back down after sundown which reduces duty cycle overnight. I tapped the power for the LED light to power the fan.

Often I forget to dial it back down and pour slushy milk into my coffee in the morning and find mid to low 20's temps all over.

Right now mine is on ~1.8 out of 7 and the internal temp range, shot by my IR thermometer gun is 32 to 34.5 degrees in about 64 ambient.

The Danfoss compressor does make some noise, but it is much much quieter than the vibration prone Norcold/Engel Sawafuji compressor. I speak from experience.

The TF's come with 92mm fans attached to the condenser covering a good portion of the condenser. My VF came with a 120mm fan covering the whole of the condenser. I replaced this 120mm fan with a Noctua nf-f12 and oriented it to push air through the condenser rather than pull it. Much quieter and seems to have increased performance too.

For extra insulation, I used 3/4" foam board adhered to the fridge box, and another 3/4 inches on the cabinet walls. The weak spot is the door seals now.

The extra insulation thickness allowed me the space to move the fan to the other side of the condenser.

The fan draws air from below and behind the fridge pushes it through the condenser, across the compressor and controller and then out a vent behind the fridge, or in winter time, into the adjacent cabinet. I made a cooling unit tunnel to protect the cooling unit and to funnel the air where I wanted it.

I have not rigged up an additional fan to the compressor controller. The Noctua fan is rated at only 0.05 amps so in theory the controller could power 10 of these.

The blades do get dusty. Having the fan mounted as I do makes cleaning the blades and condenser fins much easier.

This is about 3 months of build up, the fridge is always on:

[davevickery]