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Fuel Gauge Adjustment
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davidw99
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 8:14 am    Post subject: Fuel Gauge Adjustment Reply with quote

I want to adjust my fuel gauge. The needle reads about 2 gallons low across the range. New sender (needed to be replaced, old one was erratic) and vibrator. Everything is consistent, just low. I know that there are two adjustment gears accessed from the back of the gauge. However, you likely have to take the gauge out to adjust them. The bottom one adjusts the zero and the top one adjusts the range. My question: which one should I adjust and how can I tell if I'm close with the gauge out of the car? (I know, reinstall it but I would like to get it close at least.) For example, is there a specific place for the needle to rest when zeroed? My tank is full now so I would be trying to get the needle to read full.
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1970VWGUY
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the float have an adjustment?

Some have suggested it's better to adjust the gauge when the tank empty...Then you will know it's correct...& "E" really means "E"
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don't_bug_me
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don'y like it when E really means E, I prefer a little cushion, I still get nervous regardless when it gets close to E.
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davidw99
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The float doesn't realy have an adjustment although some here have suggested bending the wire bars. I would prefer not to do that because 1) it's new (VDO German) and I presume properly made and 2) with a Super I have to pull the tank half way out.
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1970VWGUY
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

don't_bug_me wrote:
I don'y like it when E really means E, I prefer a little cushion, I still get nervous regardless when it gets close to E.


meaning it's better to know when it's empty...you have a reserve indicator on the gauge....I would set it to dead empty.....and there will be no mistake..

You need to know when it's empty more than you need to know it's full..
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.midsouthvw.com/TechTips/tech_tip_FuelGauge.htm

tips for adjusting your fuel gauge.

I admit I have never done this, mine reads 3/4 when full and will hold 8 gallons in the middle of "R", good enough...
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mr_bill
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2013 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have "bent" the arm on my N.O.S. VW tank unit several time to finally get it ti read properly......NO adverse effects from "bending" which is net really "bent" at all....minor "tweek" of an adjustment....I would not hesitate to do this again, if need arises.... Wink
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Hyperspace
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2013 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its like a 5 minute job... a little more if you need to do a few adjustments.

Simply bend the arm until it just touches the tank floor when empty.
It should in theory then go p to the demarcation mark for the 1 gal reserve.... you can test this by then putting in 1 gal.
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Joel
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2013 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hyperspace wrote:
Its like a 5 minute job... a little more if you need to do a few adjustments.


Excluding the 30+ mins to get the tank out as 1303s require to remove the sender.

You could fine tune it either way, bending the float arms or adjusting needle sweep which means popping the speedo out and removing the fuel gauge, both are a bit of work.

How low do you let the tank get?
Under 1/4 you run the risk of dragging through 40 years with of sediment off the bottom of the tank.
73+ tanks don;t have the mesh filters anymore, although those are only rock catchers anyway.
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Hyperspace
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 12:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm, I remember there being some toothed gear in the fuel guage I disected... unfortunately the wire that holds everything in place and carries the power from the connectors was burned through, so how this gear is engaged was not imidiatly apparent from a quick look.

When I'm done working on the alternator I will take it appart again with some pics to help figure this out...

The 5 minute thing is ofr a standard bug Smile Allthough it is a schlep to have to screw back the sender between each adjustment, to both ground it, and have it lieing flat in its normally installed position.

I still prefer this to popping the guage out... my hands aren't THAT big, but it was a PITA when I did it... had to do it twice in one morning.

I did my calibration after a tank restoration... I pulled it expecting crud, but there was only about a teaspoon full of waxy grime around the base of the outlet (which is slightly prone from the bottom of the tank to prevent things that fell into the bottom to get into the pipe. My tank has no built in filter on the outlet, I have one next to the transmission. Otherwise the tank was clean and fresh inside, despite haveing the usual rust on the bottom outside... Anyway, its all fresh and nicely painted, and I didn't even have to touch the inside of the tank.

When it comes to filling a tank, I am a sinner, My wife says we drive on pay as you go....
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Joel
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 3:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hyperspace wrote:

The 5 minute thing is ofr a standard bug Smile Allthough it is a schlep to have to screw back the sender between each adjustment, to both ground it, and have it lieing flat in its normally installed position.


Yea 1303 Super Beetles are PITA when it comes to the sender.
VW was too cheap to make a new tank so they just kept the 1302 tank so the sender ends up underneath the fresh air box which is part of the body and not removable, only way to get it out is remove the tank.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Super tanks have baffles inside too which the sender float arms love to get caught on.

One thing they did get right is Supers have a ground wire on the sender unlike standards relying the tank being grounded.
9 out of 10 problems with a standard beetle fuel gauge system is the sender not grounding properly.
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68IHscout
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I fill up at half full , never worry about running out, I did once (needle was just in to red)since then I just let it drop half a tank and fill up ...
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Hyperspace
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 12:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm analy retentive and self destructive at the same time, I could never live like that, not knowing exactly how much fuel is left.
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RailBoy
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, in a bind, working the angles now, we know "wiper" arm adjustment angle, now what is up with gauge adjust, how do you access it, how t do it, all that jazz... Also, on the Supers, baffle infrindgement, possible issue here..... Gotcha Ya'll.... RB
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borninabus
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The gear nearest F adjusts the full reading and the gear nearest R adjusts the empty reading.
They are very sensitive.

I have R&R'd the sender on supers w/o completely removing the tank.
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Rene60
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my 71 SB I don't have to remove the tank to get to the sending unit.
But then again I can remove the fresh air box to get to the sending unit.
I still need to get my fuel gauge work correctly, it only reads up to 3/4 when full.
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68IHscout
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

once out and disconnected, can you test the gauge?if so how?
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

68IHscout wrote:
once out and disconnected, can you test the gauge?if so how?


hook it to a sender that is also out and grounded.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

68IHscout wrote:
once out and disconnected, can you test the gauge?if so how?


There are basicaly 2 ways in wich the guage is likely to fail, both involve burning through the resistance wire inside it. One way is for the wire to burn or break off between one of the poles and the heating coil, this will make your needle hide out of sight, the other is if the wire is damaged in the heating coil, this would not affect the rest position of the needle, but it will give open circuit if tested for continuity from pole to pole with a multimeter. If the wire is good it will read a low resistance.
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davidw99
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK. I got it adjusted. I took it out of the speedo and adjusted the zero adjust a bit, enough to bring the needle about 1/16 of an inch closer to the right when it was disconnected. I then hooked it up and the needle was closer to 1/1 (the tank is full). Tried the zero again but it did not move the needle any more when the gauge was connected or not. I then tried to adjust with the range adjust but couldn't move the prawns. So, I move the needle with a small screw driver to the 1/1 mark and it stayed. After reinstall the needle still goes to just touch the 1/1 mark. I must of bent the needle or mechanism a bit. I'm not worried about running out of gas because before adjustment the tank would have 3 - 3.5 gallons in it when the needle was just a little past the red "R" section of the gauge. Tank should of had about 1.5 - 2 gallons with that reading. Also, I usually fill up after about 200 miles, which is usually 7.5 to 8 gallons, maybe a little less if I've been doing a lot of highway driving. I'll keep my fingers crossed that it continues to be a little more accurate than it was.
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