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rmcd
Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2010
Posts: 1349
Location: PNW - its a dry rain.
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 Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:37 am Post subject: Panel conversion |
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I've always thought the rear windows in a Vanagon are kind of useless. Does anyone really want to see inside your cabinet? Sounds kind of dirty now that I say it.
I don't believe Panels were ever imported to the US. I've heard they've been imported to Canada but can't confirm. I hired a breaker in the UK where they are everywhere are borderline K-car status. I had them cut out the panels with drilled out seams and ship them to the US.
I was also lucky enough to find a NOS panel van slider door in the US. Go figure. Must have fallen off a truck.
Start cutting for the panels.
As they say at Voodoo donut. The magic is in the hole.
8000 miles of welding.
Magic in the hole.
And grinding 8000 miles of weld. Followed by body work.
I was also lucky enough to find this NOS panel. It needed some work as it looked like it had took a header off something. However it still had OEM primer and even german inventory stickers.
Ready for primer and sealer.
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VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight= |
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dobryan
Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2006
Posts: 16504
Location: Brookeville, MD
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rmcd
Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2010
Posts: 1349
Location: PNW - its a dry rain.
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| Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:44 am Post subject: |
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Brent saw acres of virgin sheet metal and wanted sooooo badly to put his own stink on it.
Now I'm sure he never wants to see a panel van door again. : )
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VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight= |
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rmcd
Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2010
Posts: 1349
Location: PNW - its a dry rain.
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| Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 11:09 am Post subject: |
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Time for body work. From a body work perspective it seems like an easy project with just lots of square footage. The reality is it is lots of square footage with lots of seams. You have to be careful not to sand up to the seam edge and you also have the added work of seam cleaning, prep and sealing.
Brent kept reminding me of that. : )
The donor van panels weren't perfect by miles, but they were rust free.
Lots of guide coat and blocking. Watch those edges.
Next was a coat of final prime for storage. I've been focusing on the interior next. Its starting to look like a truck again. My garage looks like a VW hoarder's cache. No wait?
Vanagon hair net.
Still need a little body work on the nose.
And seam sealing.
_________________
VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight= |
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purplepeopleeater
Samba Member
Joined: July 23, 2005
Posts: 3117
Location: E. Washington
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| Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 10:16 am Post subject: |
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| Looks great, I am hoping to build a panel hightop here in the future...the panels are going to be a tough one for me to locate it looks like |
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rmcd
Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2010
Posts: 1349
Location: PNW - its a dry rain.
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| Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 2:16 pm Post subject: |
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Having the OEM panels may not be a requiremnet. We discussed their value to the project versus fabricating the slightly curved infill panel. The reality is that you will reinforce the inside of the infill panel then cover it up. There is a huge gap on the inside window sill that gets also gets hidden.
Two questions.
Do you want the OEM external louvers?
Do you want the hidden interior window sills to look like an OEM panel van?
his will drive your need to use OEM panel van sheetmetal.
If I were to do it again I would have had Brent fab the infill panels.
_________________
VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight= |
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SKR123
Samba Member
Joined: June 09, 2014
Posts: 30
Location: Alabama
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| Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 9:48 pm Post subject: |
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| digging this build. I like the filled quarters. A LOT. |
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rmcd
Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2010
Posts: 1349
Location: PNW - its a dry rain.
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| Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 1:07 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks. Sorry for being waaaay behind on posts. Been caught up with small car ac, hijacker shock mount reinforcments and install, quietcar and fat mat installs to name a few.
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VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight= |
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rmcd
Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2010
Posts: 1349
Location: PNW - its a dry rain.
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| Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 2:43 pm Post subject: Gabriel Hijacker shock install |
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Still way behind on posts. Lost my phone pictures so having to retake. I'm halfway through the Small Car AC install. Still have issues with interference at the glovebox so am going to re-route and post photos from the start. More on that later.
I do have photos of the work I've done for the Gabriel Hijacker shock install that was loosely tied to upgrading my mustache carrier bar and R&R'g everything in the wheel wells including the syncro tank so I'll start with the Hijacker work.
These shocks do NOT work with a syncro without some modifications. You'll need to clearance your syncro filler pipe and the pinch seam at the frame rail. I also received lots of advice about upgrading the springs and the shock mount points as some advise that air shocks put more stress into the mounting points. Seemed like a good opportunity to melt metal together so I proceeded to upgrade the shock mounts.
Picture before the install, mods and upgrading the mustache carrier bar and mounts.
Note the dent in the filler pipe? You need to make it bigger.
I pulled my syncro tank filler pipe. I treated all the rust, painted it, and replaced the rubber filler tube with one from Van-cafe.com. I also replaced the tank sender unit, tank rubber seals, sender unit SS holding bracket/nuts, and re-did the leaking fuel hoses left over from my TDI install.
Need to grind out the pinch weld. I rewelded it cause I can't pass up any excuse to melt things.
Plated to reinforce the shock mount to the trailing arms and body perches. On the body perches I wrapped the mount and associated flimsy channel on two sides with 1/8" + plate. I also plated both sides of the shock mount at the trailing arm. All hardware replaced with 10.9 grade hardware.
Prior to finishing up I also sealed the entire wheel wells. I cleaned, primed and then sprayed two different brands of rattle can rubberized undercoating. It is pure garbage. I do NOT recommend rattle can undercoating. It has very little body and doesn't entirely cure. I tried heat and UV light. Still could put your fingerprint in the stuff. Ultimately I repainted it all with a top coat and it is now tough as nails. The trailing arms also got repainted for added protection plus I'm OCD.
_________________
VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight= |
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rmcd
Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2010
Posts: 1349
Location: PNW - its a dry rain.
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| Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 3:02 pm Post subject: mustache bar reinforcing |
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My syncro came without any crash bars and the mustache bar scared the
bajesus out of me. Four questionable 3/8" bolts held the whole shebang in place with a thin walled spacer tube that was crushing.
I set out to reinforce the mustache bar itself, its mounting points, and add provisions for skid plates. I also needed to replace the driveline skid plates. Eventually I'll tie all the skids plates and custom bumper together to give the mustache bar stability front-to-back.
I plated the mustache bar.
I upgraded the mounting hardware and added a solid 1" aluminum spacer that is contoured to follow the rail. Unfortunately there isn't enough room for horizontal bolts from the inside of the frame rail so eventually I'll add another plate welded to the pinch seam to give the aluminum spacer full bearing.
I added tabs onto the mustache bar to allow for a transmission skid plate, as well as, a motor skid plate. The ALH TDI pan hangs down and it feels like the boys are just waiting to get kicked.
My old driveline skids bars had been slightly modified by the PO using Thors hammer so I need to replace them. A hammer and dolly didn't work so well with the dents. I used .083 wall tube to keep them light-ish. I cut the driveline tabs off the old system and built these.
I found a modified syncro transmission skid plate bars and modified them to work. Here is the set all ready for final install.
The next piece is the aluminum jockstrap for the motor dingily bits. More on this later.
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VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight= |
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rmcd
Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2010
Posts: 1349
Location: PNW - its a dry rain.
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| Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 3:48 pm Post subject: Quietcar sound insulation spray |
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I'm going deaf and hate the heat so I'm doing my best to turn this recycled reggae drum into a syrofoam cooler that allows me to deafen myself at my own pace with Deep Purple and AC/DC versus tire or wind noise.
Yes this is going to be overkill, but that is the point.
I got some QuietCar sound insulation spray from Acoustical Solutions Inc. and also purchased a LizardSkin spray gun kit off Amazon. I will also be applying WAAAAAY Too much FatMat 80mil sound mat. In this case I'm kind of using it as a thermal barrier in addition to the sound deadening.
Here is someone else's video of QuietCar in a van if your multimedia inclined. I don't know this person. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3q30q5Nf9s
It is much cheaper than LizardSkin so I thought I'd give it a go.
InSyncro has done an excellent job of pounding into my head that preparation work is everything when it comes to coating systems.
I treated rust, cleaned, scuffed, primed, and seam sealed followed by more primer before I even thought to pull out the masking tape. Everything got wiped down again. Its been months since I finished the spray and there isn't a single de-lamination.
I still have some additional reinforcing bars for the new panel and syncro 16" plates that I'll be putting in. The former should have been in before this, but oh well.
In hind sight, I wish I hadn't sprayed as high on the b-pillar. I tried to think ahead about the fabric treatments around the windows, pillars and the headliner. I think once I get done with the FatMat I will sand some of it back.
I hand painted the QuietCar into the spaces between the outer skins and inner panels. I think the LizardSkin directional tip was a bit tricky to use.
I sprayed in three coats to get the manufacturers specified thickness which is explained via a complex mathematical formulate that goes something like this. Buy 5 gallons and stop spraying when the can is empty.
Aluminum foil is awesome!!!!
OCD doesn't like 4 different colors.
Crap. Make that 5 colors including the white panel donor van.
Hobbit's hole.
Final coating. Feels soooooo much better to have everything monochromatic.
The bumpy surface is fairly uniform. The finish material feels very hard. I'm going to go right over this with the FatMat, fabric and carpet materials. I also sprayed over the existing OEM sound material over the engine area. The OEM material was in good shape with only a couple pops which I glued down before spraying the QuietCar.
In hind sight I also wish I'd known about the spray body sound foam that InSyncro uses at body joints. At this point I suppose I could go over the QuietCar. I just need to figure out where to source it.
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VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight= |
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rmcd
Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2010
Posts: 1349
Location: PNW - its a dry rain.
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| Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 4:50 pm Post subject: custom hidden bumper |
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I started this bumper build because I wanted to have a skid plate the was tied into the bumper and I wanted to be able to support a dual purpose motorcycle off the back of the van.
Knowing what I know now … buy a Burley.
Anyhow this was another chance to practice my community college welder up skillz. I was able to stretch out the TIG skills a little before tackling the aluminum work. Yes I know mild steel and aluminum are very different but I submit that if you suck at steel TIG welding then at best you are going to blind yourself TIG welding aluminum.
I started with a fiberglass carat bumper setup with the OEM stamped steel carriers.
I repaired the damaged fiberglass using Lord Fusor bumper epoxy material. http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives OMG this stuff is hard. It is great to stick multiple materials together - forever.
The pictures of the Fusor repairs to the fiberglass bumpers were lost on my old phone. As a consolation prize I'll repost pictures of my 3 piece CLK center caps that are stuck together with this stuff.
Top tip. Do not leave extra Fusor material in your repairs or you will be spending a lot of quality detail time swearing while huffing dust from a dremel tool. I've found that a wet gloved finger can be used to smooth and work the material like thick caulking.
Also the material does shrink over time so plan for that.
Back to metal melting.
I started by extending and plating the existing OEM stamped steel bumper carriers with some 3/16" plate I had laying around from a party. In hindsight you should just buy a Burley bumper or fabricate these carrier pieces from scratch. I was thinking that having all the OEM hardware holes would save time, but it doesn't. Adding plates spreads the distance between the fiberglass mounting holes. You will end up modifying your bumper for the slightly wider hole spacing, as well as, modifying the upper holes in the carriers.
I wanted a heavy duty hitch without the fear of it twisting side to side or up and down, or relying upon a single weld versus a mechanical connection. I stared with a 2" .120 wall tube. I painstakingly augured out the 2" square holes in the plated stamped steel carriers so that there would be a mechanical connection to counter any torsion or up and down movement along the 2" tube. Obviously, I welded the plating to the 2" tube. I further reinforced the receiver with 3/8 plate(s). I'm on the fence if I should plug the back of the 2" receiver with a plate versus leaving it open.
You may note that the 2" tube also included a 1" notch at the end of the passenger side tube. I've notched out the 2" square tube in case I decide to add the second 1" hitch to help counter any side to side movement along the motorcycle carrier rack. I haven't added the 1" hitch yet as I'm thinking it won't fit with the fiberglass carat bumper.
Bottom view of the 3/8" plate used to stabilize the 2" receiver hole thing.
The 3/8" plate with the holes will be welded on last after I get the aluminum skid plate mounted. The holes are for trailer chains.
Coming together as one unit.
_________________
VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight= |
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dkoesyncro
Samba Member
Joined: December 10, 2006
Posts: 983
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| Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 6:27 pm Post subject: |
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Nice job, I like seeing that progress is still going forward!
That's some stout fab work, I can't wait to see the finished product of your bumpers. |
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goffoz
Samba Member
Joined: May 09, 2007
Posts: 1486
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| Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 8:24 pm Post subject: |
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Nice work on your build.
one thing I found with my 1.8t conversion, is you need to isolate the engine/trans armor from the engine mount....it transmits alot of vibration and sound to the body...steering pump...OMG 
On the bumper, I used very similar construction to yours, my welding skills are basic.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629126&highlight=bumper
Happy to share dimensions, more pics, if you need |
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rmcd
Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2010
Posts: 1349
Location: PNW - its a dry rain.
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| Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 8:31 pm Post subject: |
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| goffoz wrote: |
Nice work on your build.
one thing I found with my 1.8t conversion, is you need to isolate the engine/trans armor from the engine mount....it transmits alot of vibration and sound to the body...steering pump...OMG
On the bumper, I used very similar construction to yours, my welding skills are basic.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629126&highlight=bumper
Happy to share dimensions, more pics, if you need |
I've been coveting your scoops and bumper!
Did you try rubber spacers between the engine mount and plating? Was it effective?
_________________
VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight= |
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Howesight
Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2008
Posts: 3274
Location: Vancouver, B.C.
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| Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 8:42 pm Post subject: |
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Very impressive work and documentation!
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'86 Syncro Westy SVX |
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0cean
Samba Member
Joined: February 29, 2012
Posts: 1149
Location: California
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goffoz
Samba Member
Joined: May 09, 2007
Posts: 1486
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| Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 7:40 pm Post subject: |
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| rmcd wrote: |
Did you try rubber spacers between the engine mount and plating? Was it effective? |
Still poking at it...I work alot and use the van daily
I've tried rubber and silicone washers ...not happy yet 
I enjoy all the pics You post  good details |
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syncrodoka
Samba Member
Joined: December 27, 2005
Posts: 12006
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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| Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 9:16 pm Post subject: Re: mustache bar reinforcing |
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| rmcd wrote: |
My old driveline skids bars had been slightly modified by the PO using Thors hammer so I need to replace them. A hammer and dolly didn't work so well with the dents. I used .083 wall tube to keep them light-ish. I cut the driveline tabs off the old system and built these.
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That dent is actually from the factory to clear the driveshaft as the passenger side rear mount places it too close.
Good to see the thread updates again.  |
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rmcd
Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2010
Posts: 1349
Location: PNW - its a dry rain.
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| Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 9:36 pm Post subject: Re: mustache bar reinforcing |
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| syncrodoka wrote: |
That dent is actually from the factory to clear the driveshaft on the passenger side rear mount places it too close.
Good to see the thread updates again. |
shazbot mother son of a cat!!!!!!!
i had everything mocked up and installed like 80 times. once i got a cramp in my hamstring with the whole assembled setup laying on me, my junk and and the creeper!
i swear that with my face no more than 6" from the whole thing i never once noticed any interference issues with the drive line.
please tell me you are messing with me! lie if you need to as im tired of fine tuning my precision crafted car parts with a torch and bfh.
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VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight= |
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