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Broken Bolts / Studs..... What's the SECRET?
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4Gears4Tires
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2020 8:20 am    Post subject: Re: Broken Bolts / Studs..... What's the SECRET? Reply with quote

I think you are fully into the janky repairs territory if you don't pull the head. I'm not sure you can get good enough heat into the head to weld it, if you can weld aluminum, if the head is still on the engine. So...

Jam a good bit of JB Weld SteelStik down the hole, thread a bolt in, then remove the bolt. Jam a bit more in. Thread the bolt in and out. Then a minute later thread the bolt back in, and out, etc. You want to keep the threads clean. Wait 24 hours for that to really set. Maybe chase the threads. That might be enough to "fix" it.
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dschaftlein
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 8:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Broken Bolts / Studs..... What's the SECRET? Reply with quote

I was replacing my old rotten exhaust today and broke a header bolt just below the surface of the head. No big deal I’ve had good success with drilling out broken bolts before.

Well I should have walked away and dealt with it tomorrow in the daylight. Despite stopping and checking the depth I still managed to drill too deep. My heart sank when coolant started gushing out of the hole. How embarrassing!

Does anyone have any thoughts on a repair? I’m hoping I don’t have to pull the head to repair or replace it.

I was thinking about installing a stud in the hole with some hi temp sealant Or jb weld it and hope for the best... any thoughts?


Last edited by dschaftlein on Sun Jan 26, 2020 10:21 am; edited 1 time in total
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2019 3:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Broken Bolts / Studs..... What's the SECRET? Reply with quote

Quoted entire post and added here......

jlrftype7 wrote:
Mods, feel free to move this as need, wasn't sure of the right Forum to post in:....


Recently I needed to 'dissolve' 2 lug studs on an older Jaguar Sedan due to the really bad habit of their small lug nuts seizing to the studs, then shearing in half when you try to remove the rounded lug nut with the usual special Removal Sockets made for rounded nuts of all kinds.

So, it's Drill time. Only, due to fairly robust construction of the Lug Studs, regular Drill bits don't really make a dent on these studs, which is weird, but true.
Enter the Matco Hyperstep Drill Bits. These aren't mine, I had to borrow them for the work, and WOW, did they ever work, stunning actually.

I'm adding pictures so you can see how to apply using the Drill bits to broken bolts and studs on your VW. You don't need to buy a whole set, Matco will sell single bits as needed, this would allow you to just buy what you want, as needed for an exhaust stud on a Cyl. Head, etc.

The tip of the drill bits is where the Step wording comes in. They look like tiny versions of a Unibit on their cutting edge. VERY fast cutting, but you have control as well, so if you don't want the bit to self feed with hand drilling, it won't. I went the normal Pilot Hole method, then up 2 sizes at a time after that. What I noticed right away with the larger bits is that once you run out of the Pilot Hole and bottom out as normal, these bits just keep drilling almost as easily as if the smaller Pilot Hole was still there.
They're just that aggressive and sharp. I used regular old Sulfur Cutting Oil since the work was all steel, the drilling temps seem to stay way under what a normal 118 to 135 degree bit tip profile would have given me for this job, so the HyperStep Bits seem to cut cooler as well.

I haven't had a need to add to my drill bit collection in years, my 'Good" set from Wurth, the old Lighting Drill Bits was my go-to set for anything that my regular Cobalt Drill Bits were struggling with. Not any more, I'll have to get a set of these Drill bits from Matco....
I doubt Matco makes them, but I think for now they have a sales lock on the bits until that expires and we see them for sale elsewhere. Matco is sweetening the deal with a Lifetime Warranty on the sizes above 1/4" I think.
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https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/power-tools/accessories/drill-bits/best-drill-bits/hyper-step/

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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 2:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Broken Bolts / Studs..... What's the SECRET? Reply with quote

Well, one more post confirming the weld-O-nut strategy. Had a stud that was stuck incredibly bad. I snapped off at the surface. I luckily could get an 1/8th of a turn of a rocker nut on it. Welded it up solid and then shocked it with "Freeze Off" and with a few back and forths she came out clean. Threads were easily cleaned up. It's worth getting the welder out. I will go this route from now on.

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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarkWard wrote:
Quality bolts are rated among other things for clamping force. What you see in the picture is "clamping" force. Gets you down the road and cheaper than a rental car.


Heh heh. Ya, it got me down the road then down another, and another and..... it never failed.

Neil.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

insyncro wrote:
Someone put Grade 8 bolts in place of the Grade 12 studs....not advised.

Hence your issues after all of those heat cycles.

A collet type stud puller (not the cheesy wedge style), mine is a Snap On, will remove those in less than a minute.


This is good if the threads are not damaged at the end, allowing threading on of the above tool. But, if the end is buggered up and damaged from previous attempts with say a vice grip, the threaded collet tool is a no go.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

and part of the problem of dissimilar metals reacting with each other via electrolysis and galvanic corrosion . . . I got lucky with heat and wax recently. Year ago, I did volvo exhaust manifold studs that were well known to snap easily upon removal - the process took five days of heating/pb blaster soaks. Sometimes, time is your friend but it is a pain to proceed so slowly!
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Halifaxwesty
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Had awesome success getting this exhaust stud out...hammer on sacrificial 8mm socket.....small bead of weld...and 3/8th impact...out first try...

After heating it red hot...and using some lube no luck....
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I often use these with quick bursts delivered with a 3/8 impact gun. You can use smaller sizes for broken studs, they really grip!

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=641938&group_ID=680941

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 12:14 pm    Post subject: boltls Reply with quote

i guess if you had to you could take it to a machinist and they could use a water jet if you cant get a grip on the broken bolt.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had these two bolts break off 7-8 years ago. Never bothered to fix it, always something else to do.

So they were seized years ago and sat in the weather broken for 7 years.

Cleaned off the rust, used a torch to heat up the captured nut to red hot, liberally applied Candle Wax, clamped on the vise grips and wiggled them left right left right and then unscrewed the remnants.

Almost as easy as bolts with a head!

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 10:06 am    Post subject: remove broken bolts Reply with quote

i would think if you could take the head or whatever part to a machinist they could mill out the broken bolt very easily with a direct plunge bit.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am thinking of buying an induction heater. That way I can heat a broken stud or bolt red hot from one end to the other while inside the aluminium head or case.

Two summers ago I spend way too many hours trying to remove the exhaust studs from a Type 4 head and was quite afraid that I had used so much heat that the heads would give trouble in short order after being put back in service. I also have at home a couple of WBXer blocks with sheared head studs that an experienced mechanic gave up on.

I might start by finding a rental induction unit and seeing how it works to learn whether it is worth the price or no.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That piece of "art" is why others make fun of VW owners.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quality bolts are rated among other things for clamping force. What you see in the picture is "clamping" force. Gets you down the road and cheaper than a rental car.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

insyncro wrote:
RicoS wrote:
What in the HELL is this?


Fine art Laughing


Folk art, surely! Wink
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RicoS wrote:
What in the HELL is this?


Fine art Laughing
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vanagon Nut wrote:

"temporary" repair that is still holding up. Haven't tried the welding technique yet. Maybe doing that on this (repaired) stuck bolt would have had poor results? Wink


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What in the HELL is this?
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For when you can't use heat, or don't have a welder use this:

Quickcenter

http://www.quikcenter.com/application.htm

Works consistently well.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

djkeev wrote:
I think a lot of people don't use welders on broken bolts, but instead resort to other less successful methods, is simply that they do not own a welder.

Dave


What? Doesn't every Vanagon owner have one? Wink

Yah, they're an outlay of cash. Especially when you include a decent size shielding gas tank. But good point. Haven't looked but I bet decent lower hour MIG setups can be found used for a reasonable price.


Neil.

"temporary" repair that is still holding up. Haven't tried the welding technique yet. Maybe doing that on this (repaired) stuck bolt would have had poor results? Wink


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