Solo windshield install?

[Crankey]

Hey all...I did search and read some threads on windshield install.

I have some rust above the fuse box at the windshield corner (at least...maybe other bottom corner too)
I can't see the rust unless I lift the edge of the seal. Hope it's not bad. I do have an entire lower frame edge for donor material if I need to cut and weld much but if it's only a small hole I hope I won't need very much of that.

I have suction cups to lift out the glass...I plan on a new oem seal.
Best place to buy that seal suggestions ? While I'm buying that I'd like to get new seals for the rear side windows of the cab too (yeah doka cab) so I'd be great if the source can provide all three seals.

Doka is sitting dead. No chance if driving anywhere now. So I'm wondering if when the rust repair is done should I attempt a solo install, never having don't it or any windshield install before ?
Should I call a mobile installer ? Or enlist a kindly, experienced helper on it ?
Best fellow I can think of lives close by but with kids, family and it being summer season I hate to bug him...but I'll try. Just wonder how long it takes if you know the drill ?

Main concern is I only have a tig welder and I've found that a mig is a bit better for the super quick tac welds on thin sheet metal. That said I can weld a stainless sink into a stainless counter top and when I'm done it looks like it was factory stamped perfectly in the counter top sheet. I definitely tig that but I also have aluminum heat sink to help and it's made easy because the weld zone is flat.

Shipping the truck for new engine later this year and will drive home in December-ish and would like to not fret over a rainy 3 hr drive with dripping over the fuse box.

Thing I don't get is, if you pull your cord to drag the seal over the lip from inside the cab then what keeps the windshield from falling on the floor while your messing around with the cord ? Ratchet strap laterally around the windshield and front pillers ? Straps of duct tape vertically up the windshield and onto the roof ? It's an original windshield and I really don't want to destroy it. Really really want that oem logo in the corner. I'm in Seattle so yep a good seal is mega important.

Thanks for your thoughts. Won't take a knife to the og seal untill I have a new oem seal in my hands.

[MarkWard]

My wife keeps the glass from falling. TIG is fine. Magnets can hold your repair piece. Nickel bronze rod or whatever it’s called. Melts with less heat.
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[Crankey]

Hmm yeah I have plenty of silicon bronze weld rod and it takes to steel alright.
No wife available here. Just a small cat.

[MarkWard]

Neighbor?
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[Crankey]

Well, yeah and as I mentioned he knows the drill very well. Used to work at a vanagon resto shop here. He's the best option for assistance but I try to avoid taking him from kids and family duties. If it's only an hour of time it's probably fine he's only 5 blocks away. We can probably find a free hour somewhere between now and October ish 😂

[MarkWard]

The windshield sometimes needs a gentle push from the outside as you rope it in. Glass installers work alone all the time. The vanagon and bay’s have a pretty upright piece of glass. Maybe a glass/mirror suction cup on the inside to help if you go it alone.
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[Crankey]

That's what I expect, push and pull happening at the same time. I don't think it'd be safe to try it alone.
I'd rather pay totally un skilled help just to stand outside and keep the near vertical glass from falling. My friend and boss also lives near me and we install some big metal stuff in 1%er grade homes all the time so I know he and I are very careful with difficult tasks.

The other hard part so far is people saying just use my old seals from the side cab windows when I swap in the slider windows but I'd rather have the insurance of new seals just in case.
What I have now is actually nice, not hard or cracked at all. Just want to be safe with new seals if needed. Either way I haven't found a source for those seals yet.

[Crankey]

SSP brand from Heritage parts center any good ? It's all I can see for the side window glass now. Nothing listed on van cafe and go westy is out of stock. Emailed questions to both.

Is there such a thing as actual oem seals any more ?

[old_man]

I've done all my cars, including my sinka/vanagon, solo. I use the ratchet strap trick.

[Crankey]

Cool nice job, exactly what I was thinking

[ImAddicted]

Those same suction cups you are gonna use to lift it out of the hole work quite nicely to help you pull into place. Hold one, pull some rope. Switch side. Rinse. Repeat.
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1979 Transporter (sold)
KC1MUR

[Crankey]

I have 2 larger ones, about 7-8 inch or so. Looks doable alone even for me.

Looks like I have a volunteer. Fortunately there's no time constraints on it.

[Crankey]

I can't seem to find anyone stating OEM and the manufacturer name clearly.
Is febi oem ? I see some sellers stating febi Bilstein seals but they don't say oem ?

Some say molded corners and go westy says the seam is at the top and not the bottom like what's on my vehicle now. So what is actual oem ?

[16CVs]

Do you want OE or OEM? There is a difference. The chances of finding either one is slim.

If’n your seal is solid and working then give it a cleaning with some Simple Green or other cleaner to get the dirt and debris out from the contact points and re use it. That seal has lasted 30 + years and you want to replace it with some after market crap that’ll start cracking in a year or 2. The OE compounds are far superior to any replacement parts.

As far as the install goes, put the rubber on the glass and put the rope in the groove and set it in the opening, it will just sit there. Ive driven cars with windows just sitting in the opening. The second person and a strap are just pure overkill. Don’t overthink this, if you’re not comfortable with this and are scared of loosing your old “OE” glass then pay a pro to do it.

OE = Original Equipment — cake with Car new or bought item from dealer with logo.

OEM = Made by OE supplier but not always the same quality or spec, but usually as good as you get without buying from a dealer or OE Parts supplier.


Stacy
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1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[T3messie]

Do not buy new seals.

The seals can be washed in the washing machine together with some rags, then a massage with vaseline, use a lot of vaseline for install too..

Windshield install is done in 15 minutes, cabin window in 5.

[16CVs]

I use Glass cleaner first as it evaporates quickly, on the second try I use WD40. I don’t like Vaseline as it is heavy bodied and will retain dirt and debris.

Stacy
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[Crankey]

[16CVs]

Unfortunately windshields do not have production dates clearly printed on them like a tire. The same people that will toss tires because they’re old or close to a wear bar will drive a windshield until it’s broken. Some have this attachment to the OE logo. Windshields wear out, that get pitted and wiper worn and the laminate fades just like the plastic in a convertible top window. See my past rants about previous glass color options.

Pulling glass is risky as any small blemish in the surface is where it will break with uneven pressure. I pull a lot of glass and save it, but even I don’t have a 100% pull rate.

The first step to pulling glass and saving both the seal and the glass is the willingness to know that the glass may break. Next step is go over the glass with a Sharpie and circle all defects like pits and small stars (time to replace ).
When pulling a rubber set window like a Vanagon I pull the rubber back between the rubber and the body and use the WD 40 stray to get between it
And let it loosen it up and act as gliding surface to help it pop out. I then hop inside with my feet At a corner and ever so gently put pressure on the glass as the seal begins to drop behind the pinchweld, gently work your away across the top and down the sides. Another way is take a Straight screwdriver or hook tool and push the lip of the rubber up under the edge of the pinch weld until loose

Hope this helps

Stacy
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[Crankey]

Thanks it helps a lot !
Yeah...I suppose if the seal had raised letters saying Michelin I might feel more attached to saving that earlier too. Funny but I do have a tire collection going. Hard to trash a tire when it looks great.
Maybe I get a stencil and a tiny sand blaster and do a fake logo in new glass.
I do have a couple stars but they've been there without change since I got it about 2007-8
I'll check the local German wrecker to see what van stuff they've saved. Vanagons are popular here so I'd think they would save glass and rubber stuff.

Thanks again Stacy !

[T3messie]

Get a lot of cutoffs from a sapling or dowel and place them between the inner lip of the seal and the car body. Then push gently, maybe you have to help the outer lip to get unstuck from the frame with some lubricant.

One man job, never broke a window or cut a seal in some 20 plus removals.