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ScootrBug64
Samba Member
Joined: July 19, 2013
Posts: 6
Location: Miami
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 Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 8:19 am Post subject: New buggy owner. |
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Hello everybody. As the title says I'm a new buggy owner, full of excitement and lots of questions. The buggy is on a 1964 shortened chassis, street legal and currently registered with antique plates!!! Is a drivable project and is driven almost everyday. We (me and the buggy) need your combined knowledge. We have found answers to plenty of our questions using the search feature but there's always need for more input.
Floor replacement:Best way to proceed (cost effective,durability,time to complete,etc.)
1.Stock floorpans reinforced with 1" square tube inside the outer channel. That's how it is right now.
2.Fabricate a perimeter from 1"x1" or 2"x2" square tube and use stock floorpans, (if such thing is possible).
3.Same as #2 for perimeter but using sheet metal maybe 1/8" for a completely flat floor.
Of course I want to retain the stock tunnel b/c of the VIN number.
Although I am mechanically inclined, I have no experience in fabrication and living in an apartment community presents a challenge for this kind of project. So I'm looking for recommended fabricators in the Miami,FL area. I've seen a few locals but so far they are either unconvincing, flatly refuse the project or simply don't know squat about manx clones. I will appreciate very much all the help. And of course, there will be many more questions!!! |
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LeeVW
Samba Member
Joined: June 14, 2006
Posts: 1016
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| Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 9:20 am Post subject: |
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| 1.Stock floorpans reinforced with 1" square tube inside the outer channel. That's how it is right now. |
That's how mine is, and the chassis seemed reasonably stiff, or at least I thought so until I made a cage for the buggy. Nothing adds strength like a cage. It ties everything together and acts like a truss. You're basically putting all the rigidity the Bug body provided (or more) back into the design.
Is your buggy used just for street, or do you plan to off-road it too? One of the things I would do differently if I could do it over is add a 1" body lift to provide more room for larger tires. This is accomplished by putting the 1" tubing on top of the pan instead of inside the channel underneath. It's easier said than done, but it would provide a lot more room! This would be a mild mod, as a 3" lift is already offered. I just didn't want to go that high.
I take it your floor pans are rusted out and need to be replaced? If so, can you use the sections that are offered, or are the edges rotten too? If you need full pans, these are good ones. Obviously, they would need to be shortened, but you could use the existing ones as patterns.
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new/body_sheet_metal/bug_sheet_metal/floor_pan.cfm
Lee |
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ScootrBug64
Samba Member
Joined: July 19, 2013
Posts: 6
Location: Miami
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| Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 10:11 am Post subject: |
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| Thanks LeeVW. For sure there will be a roll cage that ties in the front and rear suspension. The buggy will spend most of the time on pavement but I also thought about a 1" lift for the occasional off-road blast with a taller tire change. |
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jspbtown
Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004
Posts: 5157
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| Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 10:22 am Post subject: |
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| For sure there will be a roll cage that ties in the front and rear suspension. The buggy will spend most of the time on pavement but I also thought about a 1" lift for the occasional off-road blast with a taller tire change |
Given that I would think that #3 makes the most sense. |
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ScootrBug64
Samba Member
Joined: July 19, 2013
Posts: 6
Location: Miami
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| Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 11:12 am Post subject: |
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Thanks jspbtown!!!
Anybody else with more ideas or advice? I'm looking for fabricators with experience in this type of buggies, preferably in or as close as possible to my area. Thanks!!! |
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drs1023
Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2011
Posts: 1682
Location: Georgia, USA
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| Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 6:54 am Post subject: |
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These floor pans were fairly easy to install. The perimeter and pans had rusted almost completely off - only enough left to get a few measurements for width. I welded 3 cross beams of 1 3/16" thick wall square tubing spaced front to rear. Then I made the perimeter from 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 3/16" angle iron. I left enough material off each side of the tunnel to attach the sheet metal to and 4" x 2" x 1/4" plates to the bottom of the angle iron to attach the roll bars. This is a full length '63.
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jspbtown
Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004
Posts: 5157
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| Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 9:51 am Post subject: |
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| How did you bend that diamondplate? I could barely cut mine...never mind bend it! |
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drs1023
Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2011
Posts: 1682
Location: Georgia, USA
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| Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 10:09 am Post subject: |
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| A local machine shop let me use their hydraulic 12' long press brake. Wish I had something like it at home. |
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