Is this wear on fulcrum plates and paddles severe?

[grey60]

Both sets of plates have similar marks, as do the axles/paddles on either side.

I haven't got to the pinion yet -- taking it all apart to evaluate if worth rebuilding or using for parts and just buying a rebuilt unit somewhere -- but these marks already give me pause.

Before I parked it to do current work on it, there didn't seem to be any symptoms… other than profuse leakage out passenger side axle at the bearing, which I almost accepted as 'normal' …

Also worth mentioning that the weep hole on one of the axle bearing cover plates was plugged… and… it may have had wrong size seals in the covers… and… yeah… most of what came out when I drained the transmission was water with about a half-inch of metal shavings on each of the drain plug magnets…
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1960 grey panel

[novetti]

How is the axle spade?

The Bentley calls 0.30mm or 0.40mm max (or somewhere there) of play between the Plates, axle spade assembled into the crown gear with a feeler gage.

Once I had a set with minimum play (in tolerance) that still had a noticeable loud clunk. I replaced both F plates and crown gear and fixed the noise.

[gears]

Yes, it's junk and should be replaced.
_________________
aka Pablo, Geary
9.36 @ 146 in '86 Hot & Sticky
'90 Syncro Westy SVX
'87 Syncro GL 2.5
https://guardtransaxle.com

[BarryL]

In my opinion, what he ^^^^^ says.

I've been softening the sharp corners of the rectangle, lately. Don't know if that's bad but it works for me.

[gears]

Yes, definitely round the corners a bit .. they don't need to be that pointy.
_________________
aka Pablo, Geary
9.36 @ 146 in '86 Hot & Sticky
'90 Syncro Westy SVX
'87 Syncro GL 2.5
https://guardtransaxle.com

[grey60]

My grasp of the nomenclature may be off a bit?

When I said 'paddles' I might have meant 'spades' -- i.e., the end of the shaft opposite splines that fits into the side gear on either side, between the two fulcrum plates…

The surface on both axles is worn in about the same location and manner as shown in the pic of the plates.

There weren't any symptoms like 'clunking' or knocking sounds before I parked it, so not sure if I can justify replacing everything on this one point.

What is the rationale behind rounding the corners, btw? What radius?

Thanks!
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1960 grey panel

[gears]

.
Grey, I don't blame you for not wanting to change the axles too .. that's your call. But those won't disintegrate like your fulcrums could. So long as no high spots exist, you could be OK on the axles.

The sharp corners on the fulcrums don't add anything, and at times (in a binding situation) those pointy corners can promote cracks in the OD of the side gear. (In fact, you should be closely inspecting the OD of the side gear, outside of where the fulcrums contact.)

Here's a crude instruction sheet I was working on for our 356 TBDs .. virtually the same parts as VW swing axle.

_________________
aka Pablo, Geary
9.36 @ 146 in '86 Hot & Sticky
'90 Syncro Westy SVX
'87 Syncro GL 2.5
https://guardtransaxle.com

[cru62]

You should replace everything that touched those plates. The hardening is worn off of them and the base metal is being eroded. If they are that bad the side gears and the axles will most likely not be in spec. If you merely replace the fulcrum plates the hardened surfaces of the new ones will ruin the old parts at an accerated rate.
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"My biggest worry is that when I die, my wife will sell all my parts for what I told her I paid for them"-Jon

Jokes about German sausage are the wurst.

Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

[Riff Raff]

Great info gears

When I am assembling transaxles, I have always installed the axles such that the wear points on the axles (and fulcrums if I am re using them)are "reversed".
Swap left for right effectively.
AFAIK, there is no "memory" in axles and they can turn either direction.

On axles that have some wear, but are not badly pitted, is this an acceptable procedure to extend the life of the axle?
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The greatest obstacle to discovery is not ignorance, but the illusion of knowledge
- Daniel Boorstin

[gears]

On a stock splittie, I'd probably do what you're doing. But for longer axle bugs, I've always kept axles on their original side. (Aftermarket bug axles definitely develop a permanent twist in drag racing.)
_________________
aka Pablo, Geary
9.36 @ 146 in '86 Hot & Sticky
'90 Syncro Westy SVX
'87 Syncro GL 2.5
https://guardtransaxle.com

[sled]

dont go this far...it makes a lot of noise (the bug still drove though!!)

_________________
drive your split.

[durfeec]

[gears]

Ultra-raised or ultra-lowered rear end ?
_________________
aka Pablo, Geary
9.36 @ 146 in '86 Hot & Sticky
'90 Syncro Westy SVX
'87 Syncro GL 2.5
https://guardtransaxle.com

[sled]

wide offsets have nothing to do with it. yes in my old bug before I raised the tranny. It had about 10,000 miles on it lowered before the fulcrums were too noisy to drive with.

_________________
drive your split.

[BarryL]

One way (not the only way) of softening the fulcrum plate.

Think Ill stay out of the "swapping axles" conversation for now.

[grey60]

[grey60]

Oh, one other thing.

I was reading either the Bentley or Series 1200-1600 Type 2 Shop Manual the other night, and I came across reference to there being a spring with a ball bearing on the end of the spade. A pre-load I guess?

My axles (which have a 10 and a C on the end) did not have the spring/bearing when I took everything apart.

If I buy new fulcrums and flip the spades over, should I try and obtain/refit the spring and bearings?
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1960 grey panel

[gears]

The spring-loaded ball was just one idea to eliminate any clicky-clacky noises. They aren't necessary, so I wouldn't go out of my way to find them.
_________________
aka Pablo, Geary
9.36 @ 146 in '86 Hot & Sticky
'90 Syncro Westy SVX
'87 Syncro GL 2.5
https://guardtransaxle.com

[Clara]

[mattcuddy]