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volksgroove Samba Member

Joined: October 19, 2010 Posts: 239 Location: Apopka, FL
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Posted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 11:40 am Post subject: Drop plate installation step-by-step |
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Although there is lots of mention of drop plates in different threads... I feel there needs to be one that explains the installation step by step.
This is not a thread to debate whether or not drop plates are necessary. There's plenty of that argument already on other threads. This is an informational thread for people that are attempting to actually do an installation. I will be posting step by step photographs on my installation of 4.5" drop plates on a 63 beetle. This thread is also helpful if you are simply trying to adjust your ride height slightly with stock plates or existing drop plates. It's the same process.
First of all, this is not an effort to sell more of my drop plates. I really don't care whose plates you use (though I obviously believe in ours)... the important thing here is that you DO install and run drop plates to lower the rear of your car. Why? It's exactly the same reason you should run drop spindles in the front of your car. The goal is to lower the body as much as possible while maintaining suspension geometry as close to stock as possible. You will still have the negative camber, but it is possible to have correct toe alignment and preload when low.
Now... there are many reasons for drop plates, but these are the most important in my opinion due to their direct effect on the safety and performance of your car:
1. Proper toe adjustment. If you've ever heard the term "pigeon toed", this refers to a person that walks around with their toes pointing in and their heels pointing out. Toe-in is when the front of your wheels are closer together than the rear of your wheels. This is what causes the rear of the vehicle to get "squirrelly" when driving at higher speeds. The reason toe in is a problem with lowered cars using stock plates is because as the spring plate pivots upwards from the torsion rod, it begins to pull your axles forward. One solution is extending your plates, but you still lose the ride quality that a pre load on your torsion rod provides.
2. Preload on your torsion rods. If you've ever removed a stock spring plate before on a car that isn't lowered, you are aware of the danger of the spring plate when it slides just past the lower ledge on the torsion housing. As the plate comes out past the lower bump ledge, it will spring quickly down releasing its energy. Keep yourself out of the way, or you're liable to get a nasty bruise. (I use a floor jack during this step to eliminate that risk) I explain this in a simple way: If you take a rubber band and pull it back, you have put a preload on it. When you let it go, it flies forward. If you take the same rubber band and simply toss it forward, it does not have the same energy. When your spring plates are set with a preload, this energy is pushing down against the bumps in the road pushing up... this softens feel of those bumps inside the vehicle, and allows the driver to maintain proper control of the car. When you have no preload on the vehicle, you will feel every little bump in the road, and often you will bottom the car out. Also, the car will travel further up and down with a soft suspension, putting the delicate bottom of your engine dangerously close to the ground.
The following is a list of things you will need to do an installation on a level concrete surface:
floor jack
(4) jack stands
magnetic angle finder
3/8 drive metric socket set
1/2 drive metric socket set
set of metric wrenches
(2) small pry bars
medium hammer
large hammer
set of (4) good spring plate bushings
drop plates
grease
pb blaster
cut off wheel
grinder
safety glasses
ear protection
gloves
Please save your comments until the very end of this discussion so that people coming here to use this as a resource don't have to scroll through 7 pages to see the process. If you just can't wait that long to say what you want to say, private message me please. I will be posting pics and instructions as I go along through this installation. _________________ 1969 Riviera "Ethel"
1965 beetle father/son build
1988 Scirocco 16v father/son build
Last edited by volksgroove on Sun Nov 17, 2013 11:11 am; edited 1 time in total |
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volksgroove Samba Member

Joined: October 19, 2010 Posts: 239 Location: Apopka, FL
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Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2013 3:28 pm Post subject: |
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Okay... so let's look at our tools:
Impact gun to take wheels off is faster, but you can use a 4 way or breaker bar. Stock wheels are usually 19mm. Custom wheel lugs are a bit larger. 19 mm wrench is same as 3/4", so you can use either. You will need 19, 17, and 15 mm sockets... 19mm (or 3/4") and 17 mm wrench. Ratchet wrenches are also helpful, but not necessary. 1/2" drive ratchet with small extension, 1/4 or 3/8 drive ratchet with 10 mm deep socket. You'll need your trusty BFH... big f*&king hammer... and some small pry bars. Magnetic angle finder is vital... as well as jack and jack stands. If you are lucky enough to have a lift... you can also use that, but you must get the chassis level (zero degrees).
Drop plates, good bushings, and PB blaster round off the basic tool kit. _________________ 1969 Riviera "Ethel"
1965 beetle father/son build
1988 Scirocco 16v father/son build |
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volksgroove Samba Member

Joined: October 19, 2010 Posts: 239 Location: Apopka, FL
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Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2013 3:31 pm Post subject: |
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This is our 63 beetle we are installing drop plates on. This is my typical customer... bought a lowered bug that rides like shit. Two outer spline drop with stock spring plates. Looks cool in this picture, but handles poorly and rides rough. Rear wheel alignment is poor due to toe in. Notice how far the rear wheels are in the wheel opening. this is due to the stock plates not having enough toe adjustment to pull the wheels back when low. _________________ 1969 Riviera "Ethel"
1965 beetle father/son build
1988 Scirocco 16v father/son build |
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volksgroove Samba Member

Joined: October 19, 2010 Posts: 239 Location: Apopka, FL
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Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2013 3:36 pm Post subject: |
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Jack the rear of car up from this trans/engine support. It is attached to the frame and is capable of supporting the weight of the car. Install the rear jack stands in under the torsion tube as shown here:
you will see a weld a few inches from the outer spring plate housing. I put the jack just inside this weld on both sides and ease the car down. You want the wheels just slightly off the ground. It is important not to jack the car up too far because we will be using a floor jack later to remove/install the spring plates, so you can't be too far off the ground.
I usually jack the car up in front from the lower tube on the beam, but then your jack will be in the way of the jack stands. Instead, go just behind the front wheel on one side and jack up from the frame head just back from the beam itself. Always pay attention to the rear jack stands when you are jacking the front of the car up. If they begin to move on you, lower the car back down and reposition the jack. You can also use small pieces of 2x4 to set under the tires, then add a board to the jack so the jack never raises real high. As a jack goes up, it also goes back towards the handle since it is pivoting back towards you (kinda like a draw bridge).
Put the jack stands under the lower torsion tube as close to the side plates as possible. _________________ 1969 Riviera "Ethel"
1965 beetle father/son build
1988 Scirocco 16v father/son build |
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volksgroove Samba Member

Joined: October 19, 2010 Posts: 239 Location: Apopka, FL
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Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2013 3:48 pm Post subject: |
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We should now have the car safely on all four jack stands. You need to pay attention and make sure that the jacks are all settled flat, and the tubes are nested in the "crotch" of the jack stands.
Now, we need to make sure our car is level (zero degrees). We take our magnetic angle finder and set it in the door jam on top of the rocker like this:
It is really not a perfect place to get a measurement from, since may heater channel/rockers have been replaced, and often this area has bondo on it. You can also set it on top of the tunnel if there is no carpet. I've also used the bottom of the tunnel under the car as a reference. You can also use your eyes and step back to see if it looks level... but, really, we need a true zero degrees to do this correctly. Adjust your jack stands as needed to establish this. Sometimes folded up pieces of cardboard can be wedged between the stands and the tubes to get just that little bit of extra adjustment. _________________ 1969 Riviera "Ethel"
1965 beetle father/son build
1988 Scirocco 16v father/son build |
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volksgroove Samba Member

Joined: October 19, 2010 Posts: 239 Location: Apopka, FL
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Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2013 3:52 pm Post subject: |
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Now, remove the rear wheels. You should see something similar to this:
Now, we need to remove the shock first. There should be bolts through the upper and lower holes on the shock. You will need a 19mm and 17mm. Fastest way is with an impact on one side, and a wrench on the other. Ratchet on one side and wrench on the other will also work.
Once the shock is removed, it's time to remove the axle hub from the spring plate:
These should be 19mm on both the nut and bolt. Often, they are replaced with smaller bolts. You should correct this before you install the hub to the drop plate.
These should be 19mm on both the nut and bolt. Often, they are replaced with smaller bolts. You should correct this before you install the hub to the drop plate. Do not try and use the cheaper American bolt sizes... they are either too thick and you have minimal adjustment for toe, or they are too small. This is not a place to compromise a few dollars. I believe the bolt/nut should be a 12 x 1.5mm... thickness of bolt is more important than thread pitch. You could substitute a 12 x 1.25mm. I recommend lock washers as well. _________________ 1969 Riviera "Ethel"
1965 beetle father/son build
1988 Scirocco 16v father/son build |
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volksgroove Samba Member

Joined: October 19, 2010 Posts: 239 Location: Apopka, FL
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 10:29 am Post subject: |
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You will need to get the plate in front of the axle hub in order to pull it off of the torsion rod.
(for this thread, I put his stock plate back on with a preload. 2 outer spline drop would not have a preload, and the plate can easily be slid off without using a jack)
notice the spring plate is still pushing down against the lower ledge of the spring plate housing. You will need to get the jack under the end of the plate and jack it up a bit. Take the 2 pry bars and carefully pry the spring plate out from the housing so that you can release the jack down allowing the plate to release its pre load. Do not just pry the plate over the lower ledge without a jack under the end of the plate. The pre load will quickly release, and you could injure yourself. You must have a jack available at this point, since you managed to jack the car up. Use it...
When the pre load has been released, your stock indexing should be 21 degrees or so. That is the angle down from the zero degrees that your chassis is at. Each outer spline on the torsion is around 8 degrees... so, that ever popular 2 spline drop puts your stock plate at around 5-6 degrees. That basically means zero preload and shitty ride quality.
It is important to know what the spring plate angle is at your starting point. Write it down as a reference, so you can always put the car back to this if necessary. Some people like to put a mark on the end of the torsion rod and the edge of the spline collar as well. I don't worry about that because I use the angle finder instead.
The goal of proper drop plate selection is to be able to index the plate as close to 21 degrees as possible. So, if you only want 3-4" of drop I recommend 3" drop plates. If you want more, use the 4.5" drop plates. The closer you are to 21 degrees, the better your ride quality. _________________ 1969 Riviera "Ethel"
1965 beetle father/son build
1988 Scirocco 16v father/son build
Last edited by volksgroove on Sun Nov 17, 2013 11:44 am; edited 1 time in total |
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volksgroove Samba Member

Joined: October 19, 2010 Posts: 239 Location: Apopka, FL
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 10:41 am Post subject: |
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If you have trouble removing the stock plate from the torsion rod, try and soak it with PB blaster
Once you remove it, use PB or grease to lube the crap out of the rod. Also soak the inner splines as well. most people are scared to pull the torsion rod out completely, but you must if you want to accurately set up your rear suspension. If you follow my procedure on here, you will never have trouble with the inner/outer spline confusion again.
Now it's time to install the drop plate onto the torsion rod. For this install, we are indexing the plate at 21 degrees. Each degree down from there would net you an additional 1/4" of drop. In other words, if you wanted a 5.5" drop... you would use the 4.5" plates and index an additional 1" by going down 4 degrees... so, you would install the plates at 17 degrees.
Forget everything you've ever heard about inner and outer splines. I have simplified this as follows: On the drivers (left) side of the car, you will always put the plate onto the torsion rod around the 4:00 position. On the passenger (right) side of the car, you will always install the plate around the 8:00 position.
the picture above is me installing the plate on the passenger (right) side of the vehicle at the 8:00 position. If I went up one outer spline, the plate would be closer to the 9:00 position... if I went down one outer spline, the plate would be closer to the 7:00 position.
Now we need to check our indexing:
_________________ 1969 Riviera "Ethel"
1965 beetle father/son build
1988 Scirocco 16v father/son build |
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volksgroove Samba Member

Joined: October 19, 2010 Posts: 239 Location: Apopka, FL
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 11:00 am Post subject: |
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it is important at this stage that the drop plate is not being pushed down by the axle hub. Pull the drum/hub as far back out of the way as possible. You may need to put above the plate and support with a jack stand. Be careful not to knock the jack stand over and let the drum crash down on your leg...
now, back to the indexing. I put an angle finder on the drop plate and it told me the plate was at 19 degrees. That's lower than we want on this install. This is how to adjust that: To raise the car on the right side, you need to remove the drop plate from the outer splines. Carefully grab the torsion rod with both hands, one to pull it and the other slightly turning it COUNTER CLOCKWISE to raise the car. Each inner spline adjustment will net you one degree of change, so long as you install the drop plate back at the 8:00 position.
As you carefully pull the torsion rod out of the inner splines, you want to put a turning motion on it towards the direction you want to adjust.
Right side of car:
clockwise will lower car
counter clockwise will raise car
left side of car:
clockwise will raise car
counter clockwise will lower car
As you pull the torsion rod with a turning force applied in the direction you want the rod to turn, you will feel the tapered end of the rod slip out of the inner splines and you then turn and push back in. As the rod finds the next spline, it will push in. You need to have lots of PB or grease handy to ensure the ease of this step. Rusty torsion rod and inner splines make this process difficult.
At this point, we need to reinstall the drop plate onto the outer splines and check the indexing angle.
If we did the previous step correctly, and moved the torsion rod 2 inner splines in the counter clockwise direction... we should have gone from 19 degrees to the 21 degrees that we are looking for. (each inner spline adjustment is not EXACTLY one degree... so, repeat until you have achieved the desired angle. I call it one degree for less confusion. Bottom line is, adjust until you get it close to the goal on BOTH sides)
I will sum this up with 2 examples here for the RIGHT SIDE
drop plate at 8:00 position
angle: 19 degrees (we want 21)
change needed: 2 inner spline adjustment counter clockwise to raise
reinstall plate at 8:00 position
drop plate at 8:00 position
angle: 22 degrees (we want 21)
change needed: 1 inner spline adjustment clockwise to lower
reinstall plate at 8:00 position
I will sum this up with 2 examples here for the LEFT SIDE
drop plate at 4:00 position
angle: 19 degrees (we want 21)
change needed: 2 inner spline adjustment clockwise to raise
reinstall plate at 4:00 position
drop plate at 4:00 position
angle: 22 degrees (we want 21)
change needed: 1 inner spline adjustment counter clockwise to lower
reinstall plate at 4:00 position _________________ 1969 Riviera "Ethel"
1965 beetle father/son build
1988 Scirocco 16v father/son build |
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volksgroove Samba Member

Joined: October 19, 2010 Posts: 239 Location: Apopka, FL
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 11:20 am Post subject: |
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Now that we have achieved the desired angle of indexing, it is time to jack the drop plate up so we can hammer the plate fully onto the outer splines and onto the lower ledge of the spring plate housing. You must jack the plate up from the end or you will simply pick the car up off the jack stands.
sorry for the crappy picture, but this is the jack pushing the drop plate up from the end so the torsion rod will twist and allow us to finish installing the plate onto the lower ledge of the spring plate housing.
this picture shows that we have jacked the plate up enough now to finish hammering it into place
this is the drop plate installed with proper pre load, supported by the lower ledge of spring plate housing.
Now, we need to reinstall the spring plate cover with the 4 bolts. This is difficult sometimes... use 2 longer bolts to get the cover started, and tighten down. Then, use 2 of the smaller bolts and remove the longer ones. Install the remaining 2 short bolts.
You may have to pry against the body a bit to get the bolts started. _________________ 1969 Riviera "Ethel"
1965 beetle father/son build
1988 Scirocco 16v father/son build |
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volksgroove Samba Member

Joined: October 19, 2010 Posts: 239 Location: Apopka, FL
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 11:25 am Post subject: |
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Now we need to cut off the bump stop from the upper shock tower.
I have an air compressor, so this is what I used. You could also use electric tools... please use ear and eye protection... and gloves. Be careful not to hit any brake lines.
this picture shows the plate below the shock tower, with enough removed to allow the plate to raise if necessary. With proper pre load, you will rarely see the plate go this high... but, just in case. _________________ 1969 Riviera "Ethel"
1965 beetle father/son build
1988 Scirocco 16v father/son build |
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volksgroove Samba Member

Joined: October 19, 2010 Posts: 239 Location: Apopka, FL
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 11:32 am Post subject: |
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Now, reinstall the axle hub onto the drop plate. Notice the additional toe adjustment we put into our plates. this is where you will move the axle forward or backward to set the toe alignment. you can take a measurement of the axle to the torsion tube close to the trans, and then the same measurement close to the axle hub. You want the axle to run parallel with the torsion tube. That will get you close... then, take it to get a real alignment at a tire shop. You will also need to install shorter shocks... though, this car came in with some lower air shocks already installed.
the 63 we lowered in these pictures has an aftermarket front transmission mount. I believe it is a bit too thin, and we had to pull the axles all the way forward in the drop plate in order to get toe alignment.
this is the car back on the ground with our drop plates installed. Customer immediately noticed the difference on a test drive, compared to the 2 outer spline drop he had on stock plates.
I truly hope this thread is helpful. I spend so much time on the phone, or in emails and texts explaining this process to customers... thought I would try and put it all in one place with pics. Sorry if the pics aren't perfect, and I probably should have taken a bunch more... but, you can always message me if you still have questions.
feel free to comment now on this thread... though I refuse to engage in the debate of drop plates vs. extended notched plates.
Good luck, and enjoy the ride!
 _________________ 1969 Riviera "Ethel"
1965 beetle father/son build
1988 Scirocco 16v father/son build
Last edited by volksgroove on Mon Dec 02, 2013 12:44 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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joe56vw Samba Member
Joined: June 24, 2004 Posts: 3202 Location: Olympia wa
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 12:05 pm Post subject: |
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volksgroove wrote: |
Jack the rear of car up from this trans/engine support. It is attached to the frame and is capable of supporting the weight of the car. Install the rear jack stands in under the torsion tube as shown here:
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you might have had good luck with this so far but I have seen lots of cradle bent up and damaged from people doing this
it also limits on how high you can jack the car up if you jack it up from in front of the nosecone you can get it a lot higher _________________ '60 15 window walkthrough
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559931&highlight=
why is there no sarcasism button on here? |
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volksgroove Samba Member

Joined: October 19, 2010 Posts: 239 Location: Apopka, FL
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 12:16 pm Post subject: |
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Agreed... You can jack from the left or right where it meets the frame with success, though it may bring the car up uneven. _________________ 1969 Riviera "Ethel"
1965 beetle father/son build
1988 Scirocco 16v father/son build |
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pfcmooney Samba Member
Joined: December 07, 2011 Posts: 219 Location: New Brockton, AL
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 1:32 pm Post subject: |
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Awesome write up man! Thanks! _________________ Thinking comes from not knowing... |
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schwim Samba Member

Joined: May 18, 2008 Posts: 304 Location: Coastal VA, 'Murica
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djshutup Samba Member
Joined: April 16, 2013 Posts: 190 Location: United States
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 4:44 pm Post subject: |
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don't ever plan on doing it but thanks for the guide. There needs to be pictured guides for everything!
 _________________ 1967 Volkswagen Bug (stock). 1980 Yamaha XS400 Special II (stock). Ya I like stock classics |
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Kevinx Samba Member

Joined: November 08, 2012 Posts: 186 Location: Gainesville Florida
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 5:37 pm Post subject: |
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Nice comprehensive write up. _________________ In life there is but one way out |
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volksgroove Samba Member

Joined: October 19, 2010 Posts: 239 Location: Apopka, FL
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 8:39 pm Post subject: |
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vwkind wrote: |
don't ever plan on doing it but thanks for the guide. There needs to be pictured guides for everything!
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This procedure is also helpful to correct stock spring plate indexing. I've even used this on a bay window that was sagging in the rear. Took plates off, installed new bushings, and added a bit of extra preload to even out the ride height. _________________ 1969 Riviera "Ethel"
1965 beetle father/son build
1988 Scirocco 16v father/son build |
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1965VWBUGGER Samba Member

Joined: March 10, 2013 Posts: 216 Location: Sedro Woolley, Washington
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Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 8:47 pm Post subject: |
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How much Negative camber did you end up with? _________________ 1965 VW Beetle Project "SIX5BUG" now Zaney"s Rally Racer
2011 VW Golf TDI DSG Malone Stg 1.5 (Traded)
2013 VW Tiguan 4 Mo 2.0 TFSI. APR Stg 1.5. (Totaled)
2023 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E |
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