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OC's Project "Some Day"
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

once I can bolt some axles on I can figure out maximum angle and therefore the bottom of my suspension travel and begin laying out where airbags are mounted. Where bags end up will dictate how low I can mount the fuel tank. I wanted to set it right above the trans but I'm thinking that may not end up happening like I hoped. May just end up on the deck like normal. It would be nice to get the center of gravity a bit lower though.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trans mounts look good. I am going to change my trans mounts this winter. I bought some 944 axles off ebay for the type 4 CVs and I think they are on 19 1-4" axles, I can take a good measurement if you want.

Looks great.

Ed
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 5:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ordered 19-1/4" Empi race prepped axles. I would imagine they'd be here before the weekend.
Working on fabbing upper and lower mount plates for the 3800 air bags.
Having the majority of the transmission fabbing done sure is a load off my mind. I'm excited to see the suspension start to take form now.
As soon as it can hold it's own but up in the air I can start working on reinstalling the Quad 4 motor. I should prolly finish prep all the tranmission work I've done before that like trimming excess metal and painting because getting the motor onto the transmission with zero clearance is not going to be something I want to do again. I figure I will have to unmount the trans, suspend the motor while trying to mate the trans to it, bolt them together, then carefully lower them back straight onto the trans mounts. I think I might need some spare hands for that. Definitely not making future clutch services something to look forward to with this build.
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 5:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe I can make the rear of the cage removable. Now that would be smart huh?
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mocked up airbag mount plates out of poster board last night. Hoping to get to the metal yard for some more plate then it's circle grinding time. Not sure if I want to go with 1/4" on these since the bags already have a pretty beefy plate on either end, Thinking 1/8" would be fine and much easier to cut with my grinder.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ORANGECRUSHer wrote:
Maybe I can make the rear of the cage removable. Now that would be smart huh?


OC I just built a pickup bed for my buggy and flange mounted it, I think you could do the same to your rear cage,


[img]
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[/img]

Ed
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh boy. I can see my self redesigning the entire rear cage now too.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

that is pretty cool.
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking over Ed's pictures above I notice something I've had a question about;
Is there a purpose to mounting shocks with the piston rod pointing up?(boots on top)
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 10:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Updated goals:
8. Convert rear to disk brakes-----Pending
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OC I mounted the shocks that way because they are for a lifted Chevy pickup and that is the way they mount on the truck. I bought both shocks at a yard sale for $10 for both of them and they were new and never put on the truck. They seem to work great and I am pleased with the ride.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm. OK. I ask because I will have two on either side and they won't be running their full travel so I was thinking if I flip one it might balance out the dampening.
Like I said before, I think too much. Idea

then again that makes no sense at all...
that would make sense if I was talking about mounting one short and one long.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oc you should run spacers on your hiem to help with your clearance problem.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The hiem on my torsion eliminators?
the hiems are already out to far.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have a welder and little bit of fab skills ,I will show you how to fix it for good pm me your number
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 5:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can explain it right here. I'm sure everyone could benefit. Especially since that's what this thread is intended to do.
Popcorn Popcorn
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Started cutting of frame pieces that aren't needed or need to be moved. Finished my X-brace and cross bar above trans which will serve as both anchor point for airbags and downtube reinforcement mounting point for horns. Axles should be in today. So much stuff to do all of a sudden. Hard to decide what to work on somedays.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 5:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 6:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Because I love boring people with a pic every time I weld a bead here's an update from last night.
I think I have all the brackets and crap from the previous build ground off and prettied now. Still have to round off the trans mounts and make them sexy.

I am planning on replacing the bar that used to run across width-wise behind the seats but I'm moving it back a few inches to line up with the new X-brace.
I also need to design a bar up higher on the X-brace to attach my harness to. I'm not sure exactly where that's going to end up but I need to make it shoulder level I believe and tie it back into the main hoop.

Trying to keep things simple and accessible yet correct is a challenge since I don't do this stuff every day.

Still contemplating how to make an airbag mount pivot. Hmmm?


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Oh yeah. And I'm making the rear of the engine cage removable. Having it chopped off is making it real nice for working in my cramped space.
Thanks to Ed for giving me that idea.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On a side note.
I have a tube notcher from Eastwood that spun the threads on the hole saw adapter shortly after starting to use it last year. I welded it on and can use it but I found something new(to me) which I feel compelled to share for people who haven't heard and can use it.
It's called Tubemiter and it's software that prints out a 2D outline of the notch you tell it to make. It's freeware and extremely simple and dull, but it does the trick. You give it the diameter of the notched tube and the tube it meets, the thickness of the tube and the included angle.
It displays a 2D outline that you print then cut out and then wrap around the tube to mark with a sharpie.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Then it's just a matter of following the line with a cutting wheel(plasma cutter would be awesome) and then a little fine tuning which you'd have to do with a notcher anyway. Well at least the Eastwood I have.

It's easy to make center line marks on the template so you can index it to the tube. I use scotch tape and tightly tape it while it's on the tube and it doesn't move while I'm transferring marks and then when I slide it off I can reuse it on another tube in the future.
I hate sitting listening to a hole saw chattering and then having an oily mess of a tube to clean up when done. When I use these, it takes me roughly ten minutes per notch including taping up the template the first time I use it.
The one I've been using.
http://www.ozhpv.org.au/shed/tubemiter.htm
I found this different one for macs which seems to have more to it from the pics.
http://download.cnet.com/TubeMiter/3000-2054_4-10972981.html

It'd be nice if I can find one that displays in inches instead of mm. Take a look around, it seems there are a few out there that may be better. Hope it helps someone.

Now I just wish I could find a practical way to mark a line down the length of the tube so I can clock more accurately.
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