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the windsheild rust repair continues..........picts
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RASTAVAN
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 5:23 pm    Post subject: the windsheild rust repair continues..........picts Reply with quote

what a pain my patooty! i had nooo idea that id have to cut apart my funky green repair panel to make it fit! i thought it was a direct replacement, no muss, no fuss! i was at least a 1/4" off the window post when i line the windshield wiper holes up eitherside. then once i got the holes lined up the post area on the repair panel wouldnt line up without twisting the round front out of position. so i cut that off and put it where it needed to be. made sure my body lines lined up and there ya have it. i gotta weld on those ears that wrap around the sill and nose. any suggestions on how to "wrap" them?

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airschooled
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have no idea how to comment on bodywork, but I will ask:

Will the wiper holes line up with the wiper mechanism after you've moved the front holes around?
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RASTAVAN
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
I have no idea how to comment on bodywork, but I will ask:

Will the wiper holes line up with the wiper mechanism after you've moved the front holes around?
the only constant was the w/w holes. i made sure that the mechanism did line up.
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notchboy
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I feel your pain - sort of. I had my bus recently pained. The painter also fixed my front windshield as you did with the same problems. Shitty part was he cut the section out of the bus the size of the green panel only to be let down as you are. He had used other green panels in the past with no problems - so he thought Gerson had this right as well. But unfortunately he didnt.

So my painter had to re do the whole thing spending twice- three times the effort to get it right - back tracking on his work.

In the end I got a good job - but the painter had to eat some hours fabbing that shit to fit.

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t3kg wrote:

OK, this thread is over. You win.

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RASTAVAN
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 7:43 pm    Post subject: i think i made a booboo........ Reply with quote

looking at picts of other buses and then looking at my repair, i think i lost the "bubble" bodyline on the very front of the bus! crap! Crying or Very sad d'oh!
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Joey
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't understand why you had to cut the piece up so much. The only place I cut mine was the at top of the pillar ends.

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Joey
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 7:56 pm    Post subject: Re: i think i made a booboo........ Reply with quote

RASTAVAN wrote:
looking at picts of other buses and then looking at my repair, i think i lost the "bubble" bodyline on the very front of the bus! crap! Crying or Very sad d'oh!


I welded mine in on the body line as well. I wasn't worried about the look of the finished product though... I just needed it fixed!

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This is how I'll be welding it in the next time I do it...

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skills@eurocarsplus
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i used the panel, with no real problems.

here are a few tips for those of you who care to listen

NEVER ASSUME any panel is correct...ever

always cut the old area out on the small side. this will allow you to trim the body away to match the panel

NEVER cut body lines away...ever. as you will find out, the door gap is going to look like shit. also, try to leave the belt line up about 1/4 inch so you don't disturb the factory line

so, now that you have had a taste of what can happen, paying a pro looks like a good deal, don't it? (except for notchboy's guy. shame on him for jumping in head first. fitting panels takes a shit ton of time)

this is how you should do it (bottom of this post)

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...p;start=80
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[email protected] wrote:
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Thanks for the correction. I used to be a nice guy, then I ruined it by exposing myself to the public.

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Also the fact that people are agreeing with Skills, it's a turn of events for samba history
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germansupplyscott
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i've used the klassicfab lower windshield panel several times and it has fit perfectly each time. i don't understand why there are two 10mm gaps in the green panel.

one thing skills says above, and i will reiterate, is that you usually don't need to use the whole repair panel when doing this lower windshield job. you can section the green metal into the bus seamlessly and end up with a better repair due to maintaining most, if not all of the original body lines.
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notchboy
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine had to be widened by at least a half inch. And yes my body guy was pissed because he knew better. He was going off of other gerson fitments. It was an ill fitting part. Bad batch?
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t3kg wrote:

OK, this thread is over. You win.

Jason "notchboy" Weigel
1964 1500 S
1964 T34 S Convertible
1977 Westfalia Camper pop-top
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notchboy
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool
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t3kg wrote:

OK, this thread is over. You win.

Jason "notchboy" Weigel
1964 1500 S
1964 T34 S Convertible
1977 Westfalia Camper pop-top


Last edited by notchboy on Fri Dec 06, 2013 8:01 am; edited 1 time in total
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RASTAVAN
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 5:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joey wrote:
I don't understand why you had to cut the piece up so much. The only place I cut mine was the at top of the pillar ends.

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me either!
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RASTAVAN
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 5:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

skills@eurocarsplus wrote:
i used the panel, with no real problems.

here are a few tips for those of you who care to listen

NEVER ASSUME any panel is correct...ever

always cut the old area out on the small side. this will allow you to trim the body away to match the panel

NEVER cut body lines away...ever. as you will find out, the door gap is going to look like shit. also, try to leave the belt line up about 1/4 inch so you don't disturb the factory line

so, now that you have had a taste of what can happen, paying a pro looks like a good deal, don't it? (except for notchboy's guy. shame on him for jumping in head first. fitting panels takes a shit ton of time)

this is how you should do it (bottom of this post)

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...p;start=80
i cant afford a bodyshop to do the work and from what ive read that most shops have no more skills than i have. and youre right, never assume anything, prepare for the worst, but pray for the best. if you had looked at the before picts i posted earlier you would understand why i had to cut the whole thing away. thank you for the link though.
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RASTAVAN
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

germansupplyscott wrote:
i've used the klassicfab lower windshield panel several times and it has fit perfectly each time. i don't understand why there are two 10mm gaps in the green panel.

one thing skills says above, and i will reiterate, is that you usually don't need to use the whole repair panel when doing this lower windshield job. you can section the green metal into the bus seamlessly and end up with a better repair due to maintaining most, if not all of the original body lines.
absolootly right. i know now that the peice was not meant to be a direct replacement part. live and learn, and hindsight is 20/20. if anyone would like to rescue this champagne from me now is the time to do it.
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Gerson
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

that lower windshield repair section is stamped on a die, ALL of the the windshield repair sections that have been sold, ever, have come from the same die from day one.....we have sold over 300 of those repair sections in the last 2 years.........we made that panel larger than it had to be, you are not really supposed to remove and replace the whole panel, specially from top to bottom...the lower part of that curve is really not an ideal place to splice that panel in....the ideal place would be in the middle of the hump/curve.......as far as the panel being short, well, we used a perfect donor pieces as a template to make the die...I can see it being short 1mm o2mm, but an inch, no way.....I am sorry that you had these problems with the piece....
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that's not patina, that's fucking rust man!!!!

we (klassicfab) make the funky green panels...........
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RASTAVAN
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gerson wrote:
that lower windshield repair section is stamped on a die, ALL of the the windshield repair sections that have been sold, ever, have come from the same die from day one.....we have sold over 300 of those repair sections in the last 2 years.........we made that panel larger than it had to be, you are not really supposed to remove and replace the whole panel, specially from top to bottom...the lower part of that curve is really not an ideal place to splice that panel in....the ideal place would be in the middle of the hump/curve.......as far as the panel being short, well, we used a perfect donor pieces as a template to make the die...I can see it being short 1mm o2mm, but an inch, no way.....I am sorry that you had these problems with the piece....
thank you for the explanation and the apology, i wish i couldve just used pieces and not cut at the body line like i did(see picts above). foolish me. do you sell a whole face piece? or do you know anyone one here in the florida area that has a decent donor?
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Bradgt74
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta- I wouldn't give up just yet. From the pics, it looks like you can go a head and slowly tack it in. Take your time so you don't warp the panel. You can make two filler strips for the voids you now have.

Take a break from the nose and start on your driver's side middle window sill. That panel fill fit like a glove! Wink As long as you are making progress somewhere, your motivation should continue to push you on.
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You were drinking last night, weren't you Shame on you
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BUSBOSS
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bradgt74 wrote:
From the pics, it looks like you can go a head and slowly tack it in.


Except that the bubble line is gone; it will look pushed in like a pug's face. You'll be throwing good money and time after bad. I would start over with a new nose skin and new panel. If you are putting in the time now might as well do it right once.
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airkooledchris
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BUSBOSS wrote:
Bradgt74 wrote:
From the pics, it looks like you can go a head and slowly tack it in.


Except that the bubble line is gone; it will look pushed in like a pug's face. You'll be throwing good money and time after bad. I would start over with a new nose skin and new panel. If you are putting in the time now might as well do it right once.



unfortunately, that's how it is now. lesson learned. get a donor nose skin or one of those replacements with the spot for the Brazilian emblem on it.
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babysnakes
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 4:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The PO of my SC cut at the belt line welded in a Klokker piece. My body guy is pretty good and after much debate I bought the Gerson lower windshield and bought some donor metal. Orange bus Bob found me a belt line piece from door to door. We plan on cutting the piece 1" above and 1" below the the belt line. So Gerson green on top,donor on the middle and bus on the bottom.If all goes well we should retain the proper contours.
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