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air bleed screws IDFs
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yammi450
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 1:00 pm    Post subject: air bleed screws IDFs Reply with quote

I was wondering if I should mess with my air bleed screws if the throats are off a little. They are 1/4 of a point off on the snail gauge. should I worry about that or not?
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

probably not,but there yours do it if you wish.I found on mine closing them up some makes for easyer tuning& better running motor.But with that said....you never know if they were where they should of been to start with...aparently not for me. if there off I would bring the high ones down,not low one up.
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spectre6000
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're saying the snail gauge reads something like 4.5 on one side of the carb and 4.75 on the same side, then yes, that's how you reconcile the difference. You'll want to open it up a crack (a tiny crack) on the 4.5 side.

Whether or not it's worth worrying about is something people can argue about. Were it me and I were putting time and energy into properly setting up my carbs and I want my engine to run the best it possibly can, you bet your ass I'm going to fret that quarter cfm to the best of my abilities.

That said, there is a reason the cylinders are off. Wear in the cylinder, perhaps a bent throttle shaft, something up with the throttle plate, maybe something weird with the manifold or head casting could be throwing it off. maybe worth investigation, maybe you know why it's off, maybe it's not worth the time to investigate since the bleed screw can rectify it (the symptom at least).
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-'84 M1009 CUCV
-'81 K10
"Buy the best, cry once." -Gene Berg
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Jesse1914
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

spectre6000 wrote:
If you're saying the snail gauge reads something like 4.5 on one side of the carb and 4.75 on the same side, then yes, that's how you reconcile the difference. You'll want to open it up a crack (a tiny crack) on the 4.5 side.

Whether or not it's worth worrying about is something people can argue about. Were it me and I were putting time and energy into properly setting up my carbs and I want my engine to run the best it possibly can, you bet your ass I'm going to fret that quarter cfm to the best of my abilities.

That said, there is a reason the cylinders are off. Wear in the cylinder, perhaps a bent throttle shaft, something up with the throttle plate, maybe something weird with the manifold or head casting could be throwing it off. maybe worth investigation, maybe you know why it's off, maybe it's not worth the time to investigate since the bleed screw can rectify it (the symptom at least).


Pretty much.
X2
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You have to heat the tips up until they are a straw color... Then quench them in Soy Sauce.
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Jesse1914
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

spectre6000 wrote:
If you're saying the snail gauge reads something like 4.5 on one side of the carb and 4.75 on the same side, then yes, that's how you reconcile the difference. You'll want to open it up a crack (a tiny crack) on the 4.5 side.

Whether or not it's worth worrying about is something people can argue about. Were it me and I were putting time and energy into properly setting up my carbs and I want my engine to run the best it possibly can, you bet your ass I'm going to fret that quarter cfm to the best of my abilities.

That said, there is a reason the cylinders are off. Wear in the cylinder, perhaps a bent throttle shaft, something up with the throttle plate, maybe something weird with the manifold or head casting could be throwing it off. maybe worth investigation, maybe you know why it's off, maybe it's not worth the time to investigate since the bleed screw can rectify it (the symptom at least).


Pretty much.
X2
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You have to heat the tips up until they are a straw color... Then quench them in Soy Sauce.
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Jesse1914
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

spectre6000 wrote:
If you're saying the snail gauge reads something like 4.5 on one side of the carb and 4.75 on the same side, then yes, that's how you reconcile the difference. You'll want to open it up a crack (a tiny crack) on the 4.5 side.

Whether or not it's worth worrying about is something people can argue about. Were it me and I were putting time and energy into properly setting up my carbs and I want my engine to run the best it possibly can, you bet your ass I'm going to fret that quarter cfm to the best of my abilities.

That said, there is a reason the cylinders are off. Wear in the cylinder, perhaps a bent throttle shaft, something up with the throttle plate, maybe something weird with the manifold or head casting could be throwing it off. maybe worth investigation, maybe you know why it's off, maybe it's not worth the time to investigate since the bleed screw can rectify it (the symptom at least).


Pretty much.
X2
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You have to heat the tips up until they are a straw color... Then quench them in Soy Sauce.
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Jesse1914
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My apologies. "Smart phone owner" issues...
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jesse1914 wrote:
My apologies. "Smart phone owner" issues...



Don't you mean not "too" smart phone?.... Actually if you will review posts after making them, you can (usually) delete any duplicates as long as you are last poster, meaning that no one has responded after you....

Dale
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yammi450
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Opened the lower barrels up (1 on each carb). Took at least 3/4 turn to even out the vacuum signal. Re sync carbs and re did LBI. It runs worse with random popping through the carbs. I'll put them back( all closed).
Should I sync the lower vacuum barrels or the higher vacuum ones?
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

do you have gaskets under the stacks? a leek there will change the reading,also it's a flow meater, not vacume gauge.I lower the high.unless there already closed.but be sure that is what it needs.
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spectre6000
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark, you are very hard to follow sometimes. I'm not trying to be a jerk, but spelling and grammar are really important when you're trying to communicate solely via text.

This is how "leeks" in your "meater" would appear to the casual observer:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


(OK, maybe a bit of a jerk)

yammi450 wrote:
Opened the lower barrels up (1 on each carb). Took at least 3/4 turn to even out the vacuum signal. Re sync carbs and re did LBI. It runs worse with random popping through the carbs. I'll put them back( all closed).
Should I sync the lower vacuum barrels or the higher vacuum ones?


Does not compute... Lower barrels? Close all of the air correction screws all the way and start there (make sure you're actually manipulating the air correction screws and not the venturi set screws or idle mixture screws or something). If you're out of balance with all of the air correction screws all the way closed, you can bring a barrel up to meet a higher flow cylinder by opening the correction screw associated with that cylinder. If you were only a quarter of a cfm off on one cylinder, 3/4 of a turn sounds like a bit much to need to pull it out...
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-'58 German Market Deluxe Beetle (in progress)
-'84 M1009 CUCV
-'81 K10
"Buy the best, cry once." -Gene Berg
"A cheap man will always buy the cheapest thing available, and then buys another one hoping for a better result, and then spends the rest of his life in misery complaining about it. A thrifty man will buy a good part once and never think about it again." -RockCrusher
"Don't feed the Shitty Parts Monster!" -Me
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SBD
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

spectre6000 wrote:
This is how "leeks" in your "meater" would appear to the casual observer:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm glad you didn't find a different kind of "leeking meater" to show a picture of.... Very Happy
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

here a leek there a leek old McDonald had a leek or did he take a leek....

Most people who tune Webers forget they (the air correction screws) are there once they are closed completely .... As recommended by almost all WEBER tuning guides.....

Popping back through carbs indicates lean mix in what ever cylinder is doing the popping...

Dale
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“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
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spectre6000
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Innovate-MTX-L-Wideband-Oxygen-Sensor-Kit-3844-p/innovate-3844.htm

Your new best friend.
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Jason Hopper

-'58 German Market Deluxe Beetle (in progress)
-'84 M1009 CUCV
-'81 K10
"Buy the best, cry once." -Gene Berg
"A cheap man will always buy the cheapest thing available, and then buys another one hoping for a better result, and then spends the rest of his life in misery complaining about it. A thrifty man will buy a good part once and never think about it again." -RockCrusher
"Don't feed the Shitty Parts Monster!" -Me
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