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Manxter #127 -Build
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dbsmith
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:34 am    Post subject: Manxter #127 -Build Reply with quote

Rewind 9 years ago, we brought the '69 bug home, it had been sitting in the ladies yard for 13 years. Paid $500. My son was almost 16 and we had planned on making a baja for his first ride. We ended up taking it all the way down to the pan and reconditioned it into a roller. But then life and daughter's college expenses got in the way, and it sat till last year when we decided it needed to be brought back to life as a Manxter 2+2

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David
Manxter #127
MC 3929
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dbsmith
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The body went to member at So Cal Bajas, and I started on the pan again. Stripped her naked and sand blasting all the parts in the back yard. Yes it's messy, but trying to do most by myself. RLR welded the new pan halves. I've cleaned, primed, and painting everything. Applied Al's Liner (DIY bed liner). I was very disappointed in the finished product. Their rep said I could spray it in a small undercoating gun, but it was too thick..UGH..had to roll it, and what a mess. Finish didn't come out like I wanted it to. Hindsight, I probably would have used U-pol Raptor.. 2 engine stands make a great rotisserie.

David
Manxter #127

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dbsmith
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pan's coming together again. All parts, bolts and hardware either cleaned and painted or replaced. Just have to install pedals and brake lines. The roll bar doesn't seem to line up very well, been told it's a PIA. May have to make some spacers. When the adjusters were put on the front end, they we're put in the middle so I could go up or down 2". We'll see how that works out.

David
Manxter #127

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dbsmith
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just picked up the trans from Der Transaxle Shop. Rebuilt with 486 R&P, super diff and aluminum side plate.

David
Manxter #127

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sbussard
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good David! Keep at it and you'll be driving in no time. I also used a DIY bedliner. I think it was Duplicolor brand. It was waterbased and looked horrible after the first coat. I think I put on 5 coats before I thought it looked acceptable.

Scott
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Manxter #122
First time, garage built, and living out the childhood dream of owning a life-size Hotwheel!

Check out my build thread-->My Manxter 2+2
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dbsmith
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 8:23 pm    Post subject: #127 Manxter Reply with quote

The trans in, mounted and oiled up. Packed the CV's with grease, installed and torqued down. Emergency brakes lines installed and working. The emergency brake cables from AC Industries were a little too long, so I made a little spacer where the cable enters at the rear. Worked good. Brakes line all run, but having problems the the Master Cylinder (China made). It's going in the trash and buying German MC. That's what I get for going cheap.
I got some seats in it. Now the grandson and I can go Vrrroom...

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dbsmith
SoCal
#127 Manxter - 99.5% done....
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, it seems like the front of the roll bar is off by about 1-1/2" with one side bolted in. Going to need advice on this one. It was a PIA without the body on to get the holes to line up. And are you expected to use both holes in each foot..?

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Dry fit the body onto the pan today. EXCITING.. Seems like a lot of air to be snugging down. Is this normal?

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dbsmith
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manxdavid
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Between the flex in the fiberglass and the flex in the steel of the floors it'll all pull down fine, just use some longer bolts to start with. I've seen them much worse than that, few better in fact.
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Tom_Kathleen
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with manxdavid on the pan to body gaps, they are both a little flexable, and with a thick gasket will seal up.

When building a Manxter you want to place the body as far forward on the pan as you can and the cage as far back as you can, the "C" hoop should be against the rear firewall. This is for hood/ dash tub & windshield surround fitup. This can involve some slight bending of the cage, it is also OK to make the holes lager to make up for mismatches. Do not try to take up large gaps (more that 1/8") between the body and the cage by just pulling it in with the botls, you will crack the fiberglass. Make shims to fill the gaps. The bottom of the cage needs new holes in the body and pan, it is not made to use the existing holes. Tom
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sbussard
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm digging the seats! More miles per smile. I'm posting from my phone so I'll try to post a more helpful post sometime later this weekend when I get to the laptop, but you're in good hands with manxdavid & Tom.

Keep at it!

Scott
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Manxter #122
First time, garage built, and living out the childhood dream of owning a life-size Hotwheel!

Check out my build thread-->My Manxter 2+2
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sbussard
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm digging the seats! More miles per smile. I'm posting from my phone so I'll try to post a more helpful post sometime later this weekend when I get to the laptop, but you're in good hands with manxdavid & Tom.

Keep at it!

Scott
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Check out my build thread-->My Manxter 2+2
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dbsmith
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys.
I feel a lot better knowing I don't have to use the holes in the pan for the front feet on the cage. It just didn't seem like it was lining up well.
Besides having yard work to do this weekend I was able to get some buggy time in. I took the all the small brackets and the side bars for the roll cage and with the grinder and wire wheel, removed all the rough edges and welding slag. Had extra grinding to do where the side bars mount to the front end to clear the welds on the front tube and the sert fitting. I think there ready for paint. And... I cleaned, polished and waxed it. It's been over a year since since I got it, and it was time.

The seats..I had been looking for a beat up pair of PRP seats to throw in to get the feel for height and the steering wheel, hadn't had much luck. Those plastic ones had been in my way for years but hated to throw away. They fit perfect..

Like I think Scott had said "try to do something every day"

David
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did pick up the rims last week. Just plain chrome spokes.

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sbussard
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Davd,
I'm liking the wheels too. What size are they?

Tom has it right also, body as far forward as you can and cage as far back as you can. I had about a gap between 1/4 to 1/2 inch on the C hoop to the rear firewall and used longer bolts to draw them together. It was a mistake trying to do that. I should have made custom spacers to fill the gap. I have spider cracks on the driver's side now. I think I posted a pic in my build thread when it happened. I was sick to my stomach but not much can be done once it happened. So far the cracks haven't spread.

Where you said you the roll bars were off 1 1/2 inches, I had to use 2 bar clamps, (2 of their ends clamped together with smaller clamps) to use as a spreader. The largest clamp I had that would work as a spreader was only 36", but if I had longer ones I don't think they would work because 1 "working" end would have been butted against and interfering with one of the insides of the body. I used Jorgenson Clampmasters, since that's what I had from woodworking. I have the Clampmasters in 12, 24, and 36 inch sizes and can't remember what combination I used to make it work right. I clamped the 2 "working" ends together in the middle so when I tightened them, both "non-working" ends pushed the A hoops outward. I hope I'm describing it ok, harder to put into words and it's too damn cold out to take pics tonight. Once I had it where I thought I needed it, I drilled the holes and crossed my fingers....I'm sure there might be an easier way to make/use a spreader, but I used what I had with what I knew. Overall it was a PIA!

Getting the bolts to line up on the brackets on the A and B hoops through the body and into the roll bar that goes front to back (under the fender lines) was the next challenge. I drill small pilot holes and then tried to figure out how close I was and if I need to angle the bit one way or the other. All of these holes get covered by the brackets, but I didn't want to make a mistake that I couldn't cover up. Maybe others just drill larger holes and it might make it easier? I've only built this one buggy in my life and only have that one time of experience. I know I had long pry bars and centers/drifts in the brackets and holes trying to line it all up. For me, the pucker factor was high here. It went against every grain in my body to do it that way and when the fiberglass creaked, I cringed every time. Having an already finished gelcoat/color has it's pluses, but this was one time I was wishing it wasn't finished for fear I was going to wreck it all. I did finally get longer bolts started and that's when I realized the gaps were going to be too large in some places. I ordered additional spacers from Winnie and was able to get them placed, only removing 1 bolt per bracket at time so I didn't have to align it all again.

I don't know what others who have built Manxters have experienced, but putting the body on was one of the bigger challenges for me, but man did it feel great drinking that beer the night it was all buttoned up!

Hope this helps,
Scott
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First time, garage built, and living out the childhood dream of owning a life-size Hotwheel!

Check out my build thread-->My Manxter 2+2
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dbsmith
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott,
Wheels are 15 x 6 for the front and 8" in the back. Standard chrome spokes. I had to save some $ somewhere.
Looks like I'll be making some spacers. A new bandsaw may be in order.. As a carpenter by trade, a new tool was always the best part of the project. Hehe.
Going to pop the body back off and complete the punch list things now that I see how it all fits.
Almost time to paint the roll cage. I was going to try to dry fit it all, then take apart to paint, but now thinking I'm just going to paint and assemble. Hopefully within the next month.
I'm trying to get the nerve to pull the trigger on the Flaming River steering column assembly..$$$$$$

Sorry about your weather..
David
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#127 Manxter - 99.5% done....
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I been thinking.. ( yeh I know scary) about what type of angle iron to use to provide more support for the pan.. Then what about just adding a 2" body lift to the whole thing. Plenty of added strength. I love the idea of the extra leg room inside and having the seats a little higher, a little more clearance off the front end. The downside is having to modify the supports on the roll cage. But nothing a little welding couldn't handle.
Any ideas, good and bad that I'm not seeing.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I swear I posted to your thread the other night, but now it's not here. Pull the trigger on the Flaming River column, you won't be disappointed and it's easy for me to spend your money. And a horizontal mill would work better for making your spacers than a bandsaw, as long as I'm spending your money. You always need a new tool for new project. Just sayin'. Very Happy

For ideas on what is involved for a 2" body lift, check out joescoolcustom's Rascal build. He documents the process very well.

My post from the other night was to let you know to check the brackets welded on the top front of the roll bars by the windshield A hoop, the brackets that the roof hinges on. My were not welded in the same place and it made it more difficult than it needed to be to mount the windshield surround. The driver's side was welded more inward of center of the downward roll bar, while the passenger side was almost dead center on the roll bar. My neighbor helped fit the windshield and the passenger side was the side that gave us trouble, it hit on the fiberglass surround of the windshield. We had to grind a considerable amount off this hinge bracket so the surround would sit down and around the bar.

If yours is the same, better to fix it now before you paint the roll bars.

Scott
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Check out my build thread-->My Manxter 2+2
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dbsmith
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The column I'm thinking of is the stainless finish and they have a Nova steering wheel that's nice. Not a nerd but ok.
I'll check out the other post.
I'm sitting here playing with ideas and cardboard to modify the cage. I want to keep the mounting holes the same, so if I can modify the side rails. Cut and raise the rear support 2" at the engine and make 2 cuts before and after the bend before the front end, I don't think it would be much trouble.
My windshield brackets look real close, they should be good. I going to paint the rollbar myself, making touch ups a little easier.

David
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SoCal
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It' been 2 months and not much going on. Life's gotten in the way. Even though we haven't had much rain and weather's been good. I did order the Watson' Streetworks wiring kit, but haven't even opened the box. Sad
I do tend to open the garage door and stare for a bit and fell asleep last night thinking 'buggy'
David
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 6:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spring is in the air. Do something every day. I think everyone hits a wall every once in awhile. Push through it. Time to get back at it.

Scott
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Manxter #122
First time, garage built, and living out the childhood dream of owning a life-size Hotwheel!

Check out my build thread-->My Manxter 2+2
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