Author |
Message |
Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50337
|
Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 10:25 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Crankey wrote: |
Quote: |
They said they had to pull the engine to replace it. |
ummm I hope they were winking at you when they said that. you know where the thermostat is ? as far as I've seen, they are on the bottom and to the side of the engine towards the pulley end. very accessible. you still end up loosing most of your coolant I think, and maybe putting the van through a heat cycle to burp out the air..plus diagnosing time...I can see 5 hrs + in it I spose. things always seem to take longer than expected.
but no way do you need to pull the engine. |
Yes I would like to see pictures of the OP setup. On my 2.2 Subiwagon the thermostat is very accessible. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mraible Samba Member
Joined: December 27, 2013 Posts: 70 Location: Denver, CO
|
Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 11:45 pm Post subject: |
|
|
You are correct, they did not pull the engine. Looking closer at the receipt, there's 117 for the diagnosis (bleeding, pressure check and replacing cap). Replacing the thermostat was 294. It says it required the removal of the subframe.
They also mentioned a couple warnings:
* Upper radiator hose is dangerously close to A/C clutch
* Front crankshaft seal is leaking
I hope to make a run up to Rocky Mountain Westy in the next couple weeks to get these looked at.
Cheers,
Matt |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Rocky Mountain Westy Samba Member
Joined: April 17, 2008 Posts: 1031 Location: Fort Collins Colorado
|
Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 8:24 am Post subject: |
|
|
This vehicle has a Small Car engine mount and carrier. It is a PITA to do a thermostat. You need to pull the skid plate, carrier bar, engine mount, possibly exhaust parts. Then do the thermostat. Oh yeah, then you have to put it all back together and bleed it out.
$500 is a going rate deal, actually it is probably a touch cheap for a random mechanic that doesn't work on this stuff all the time.
Now those of us with RMW engine carriers, that is a one hour job. _________________ Rocky Mountain Westy Inc.
www.rockymountainwesty.com
970-310-3441
[email protected]
The Splitzgauer build (when I have time to work on it and update the thread)
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=497133 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
dobryan Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2006 Posts: 16501 Location: Brookeville, MD
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
mraible Samba Member
Joined: December 27, 2013 Posts: 70 Location: Denver, CO
|
Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 5:16 pm Post subject: |
|
|
So I drove it around Denver a bit today to run some errands. Less than 10 miles total. After my last stop, the coolant light flashed all the way home (1/2 mile).
I looked at the engine and noticed the cooling tank was empty. When I loosened the cap, there was the familiar air "woosh" and the coolant filled back up to just over halfway.
Of course, the light went off, but I'm wondering if this is a warning sign that things are still a bit out of whack? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
JeffRobenolt Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2007 Posts: 1513 Location: Wisconsin
|
Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 5:39 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Something is wrong, you need to stop driving before the motor is junk.
Could be something small or big.
Get it to RMW. _________________ --------------------------------------------------------
jfats808 wrote: |
Most, some, few is not all. You can always learn something from everyone , even the fool. |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
flomulgator Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2013 Posts: 950 Location: Leavenworth, WA
|
Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 5:50 pm Post subject: |
|
|
When I had my little rear heater disaster, at one point in that fiasco I had the exact same thing happen: I opened the cap and coolant came rushing in. But it was gone from somewhere else, and I believe it was being pushed the highest point by a bubble of hot, expanding gas lower in the system (the coolant resevoir is the high point). My system was totally eff'ed at that point and I was trying to limp home. You can read about that misadventure here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=577547&highlight=coolant+sos
It seems something is boiling, or something is leaking allowing air into the system, which loves to expand when heated. Do you recall what your temps were doing when you were driving?
Did the shop in Montana use an OEM, genuine Subaru Thermostat? That can be an issue with your engine and the EJ22.
I agree that RMW is the way to go if you want professional diagnosis and repair, and that overheating is a quick road to head gasket failure. Good luck. _________________ She's built like a steakhouse, but she handles like a bistro! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mraible Samba Member
Joined: December 27, 2013 Posts: 70 Location: Denver, CO
|
Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 6:04 pm Post subject: |
|
|
After yesterday's successful 500-mile, 12 hour journey, I don't feel like it's something major, but you never know.
Is it worth trying to drive it up to RMW (70 miles)? Or better to upgrade my AAA membership and get it towed up? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
flomulgator Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2013 Posts: 950 Location: Leavenworth, WA
|
Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 6:12 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Depends on your engine temps. I'd sure as hell make sure your coolant is full, you have some extra (you have onboard water though) and may consider building a Libby Bong (search the site I'm on phone) before driving up. 13mm wrench or pliers, grill comes off w/ good pull FYI
Watch your temp gauge and pull over if it starts climbing far above the LED.
If you AAA you will require a flatbed for the driveline, be sure to specify. Mines already taken a ride on one! _________________ She's built like a steakhouse, but she handles like a bistro! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50337
|
Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 7:37 pm Post subject: |
|
|
mraible wrote: |
So I drove it around Denver a bit today to run some errands. Less than 10 miles total. After my last stop, the coolant light flashed all the way home (1/2 mile).
I looked at the engine and noticed the cooling tank was empty. When I loosened the cap, there was the familiar air "woosh" and the coolant filled back up to just over halfway.
Of course, the light went off, but I'm wondering if this is a warning sign that things are still a bit out of whack? |
It is sounding more likely that you have a combustion leak forcing gases into the cooling system. This happens on Subaru engines as well as the original WBXers and is one of the reasons Subaru pushes their coolant conditioner. You should be able to find someone local who could run a check to see if you have products of combustion in your coolant, you can also do it yourself.
http://www.ehow.com/how_7885485_test-exhaust-gases-coolant.html |
|
Back to top |
|
|
pnwkayaker Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2008 Posts: 919 Location: Sammamish, WA
|
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 6:30 am Post subject: |
|
|
mraible wrote: |
After yesterday's successful 500-mile, 12 hour journey, I don't feel like it's something major, but you never know.
Is it worth trying to drive it up to RMW (70 miles)? Or better to upgrade my AAA membership and get it towed up? |
From the link in your original post, it seems that you've spent quite some chunk to purchase that Syncro, and still, you've been constantly worrying about the state of that engine since almost the beginning.
I would eliminate any worries and drive those 70 miles (less than an hr with your SVX) and get it checked by RMW. Best case, they just tell you everything is perfect and you have an awesome Syncro, worst case, they fix whatever's wrong and you're worry-free. Either case is a win-win in my book, the last thing I want to do is to be worrying about the conversion when I'm going off-road or up in the mountains (AAA doesn't go to some places I like to go). _________________ 87 Syncro Westy EJ25 ("Tardis")
Seattle Meetup at Marymoor (link)
A collection of Simple Useful Mods (SUM) (link) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ftp2leta Samba Member
Joined: October 11, 2004 Posts: 3271 Location: Montreal
|
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 8:28 am Post subject: |
|
|
First of all the T-stat replacement take a few hours, 2-3 including bleeding the van. Picture bellow show an SVX with SC mount. Follow the big hose on the upper left
Worse case you have to remove the right engine support.
Second, it's NOT the thermostat, that is BS.
Third, if you keep having air and bleeding problem you have air pressure in the cooling system = bad news for you.
On older 2.5L it take 2 minutes to remove the T-stat:
On later 2.5L it's a very close design like the SVX engine
It can still be done pretty easily on a lift.
But again, T-stat RARELY die in the close position. T-stat are design this way.
So you may be looking at a head gasket issue.. and it's a pain on 3.3.
Ben _________________ Working with rust, grease, dirt and dust is a sad truth.
------------------------------------------------------
FI part for sale: http://www.benplace.com/parts_sale1.htm
My site: http://www.benplace.com/vw2.htm
Subi conversion: http://www.benplace.com/vanaru_eng.htm
Youtube http://www.youtube.com/user/ftp2leta |
|
Back to top |
|
|
kalispell365 Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2010 Posts: 889 Location: PNW
|
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 8:56 am Post subject: |
|
|
mraible wrote: |
After yesterday's successful 500-mile, 12 hour journey, I don't feel like it's something major, but you never know.
Is it worth trying to drive it up to RMW (70 miles)? Or better to upgrade my AAA membership and get it towed up? |
You cant just keep driving the van around with something wrong with the cooling system...youre ruining the motor by allowing air pockets in the coolant passages! Im betting the damage now(head gaskets) was caused by you doing exactly that.Just because it made the trip,doesnt mean there isnt damage being done.I see this mentality all the time with my Subaru customers... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Rocky Mountain Westy Samba Member
Joined: April 17, 2008 Posts: 1031 Location: Fort Collins Colorado
|
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 8:58 am Post subject: |
|
|
Man, you guys all jump to worst case scenario quick. I am way more of a optimist. My guess in that there is a small coolant leak and the coolant keeps going low by leaking. Than the light flashes. Fix the leak and then the light doesn't flash. The pressure in the coolant system is normal. Every engine has coolant pressure when warm, It is supposed too. Now don't try and go opening your coolant bottle when it is hot to prove me wrong. It will blow up and burn the crap out of you, I have seen it happen, alright so I did it to myself.
Now that is me being optimistic, There is a outside chance you have a head gasket issue. Like Ben said. It is expensive on a SVX, like very expensive. I would say it is very unlikely that is the case although, I have done them before.
Keep me posted if and when you want to drop off the van. You mentioned something about upgrading your AAA? Do it. Every Vanagon owner should always have the best package available. I can't tell you to drive it here or not but you need the best AAA coverage for sure. _________________ Rocky Mountain Westy Inc.
www.rockymountainwesty.com
970-310-3441
[email protected]
The Splitzgauer build (when I have time to work on it and update the thread)
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=497133 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Escorial Syncro Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2004 Posts: 437 Location: Manitou Springs, CO
|
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 9:07 am Post subject: |
|
|
Did I miss it, or have they tested for exhaust gas in the coolant? Simple test. I'm with Mike on the optimistic side, but I've dealt with several subies that just gain air, sometimes fast, sometimes slow, but it usually ends up as a head gasket. Seems like a few minutes in Mike's shop and a proper diagnosis could be found. Best of luck, hate to hear of syncro relationships that start out this way. ($$$$$)
Joel _________________ Joel Lane
1985 Vanagon converted to syncro, ALH TDI, Reimo Primus top with Westy interior
2002 Toyota Tundra 4x4
1974 Honda CL360 Scrambler (for sale!) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
kalispell365 Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2010 Posts: 889 Location: PNW
|
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 9:34 am Post subject: |
|
|
Rocky Mountain Westy wrote: |
Man, you guys all jump to worst case scenario quick. I am way more of a optimist. My guess in that there is a small coolant leak and the coolant keeps going low by leaking. Than the light flashes. Fix the leak and then the light doesn't flash. The pressure in the coolant system is normal. Every engine has coolant pressure when warm, It is supposed too. Now don't try and go opening your coolant bottle when it is hot to prove me wrong. It will blow up and burn the crap out of you, I have seen it happen, alright so I did it to myself.
Now that is me being optimistic, There is a outside chance you have a head gasket issue. Like Ben said. It is expensive on a SVX, like very expensive. I would say it is very unlikely that is the case although, I have done them before.
Keep me posted if and when you want to drop off the van. You mentioned something about upgrading your AAA? Do it. Every Vanagon owner should always have the best package available. I can't tell you to drive it here or not but you need the best AAA coverage for sure. |
My worst case scenario is based on experience.The owner said the shop did a thorough check over in Montana,did they pressure test the cooling system? Also,the owner has alluded to the van getting hot already.Owning a Subaru based business,I am sure you all at RMW are well aware of how little of an amount of time overheating a Subaru engine will most certainly cause bad head gaskets...This is about the only weakness in the Subaru design.
Its not that im a pessamist,I just dont believe in getting a customer in the shop under the assumption that the fix is simple,when there is a 50/50 chance in all fairness that the van will need head gaskets.I believe this is setting the customer up for a fifty percent chance of disappointment and ultimately dissatisfaction in your shop/online diagnosis.
That being said,I come from the front range,and your shop has a SUPERB reputation,its just human nature for the customer now to EXPECT the best case scenario based on your posting. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Rocky Mountain Westy Samba Member
Joined: April 17, 2008 Posts: 1031 Location: Fort Collins Colorado
|
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 10:11 am Post subject: |
|
|
kalispell365 wrote: |
Rocky Mountain Westy wrote: |
Man, you guys all jump to worst case scenario quick. I am way more of a optimist. My guess in that there is a small coolant leak and the coolant keeps going low by leaking. Than the light flashes. Fix the leak and then the light doesn't flash. The pressure in the coolant system is normal. Every engine has coolant pressure when warm, It is supposed too. Now don't try and go opening your coolant bottle when it is hot to prove me wrong. It will blow up and burn the crap out of you, I have seen it happen, alright so I did it to myself.
Now that is me being optimistic, There is a outside chance you have a head gasket issue. Like Ben said. It is expensive on a SVX, like very expensive. I would say it is very unlikely that is the case although, I have done them before.
Keep me posted if and when you want to drop off the van. You mentioned something about upgrading your AAA? Do it. Every Vanagon owner should always have the best package available. I can't tell you to drive it here or not but you need the best AAA coverage for sure. |
My worst case scenario is based on experience.The owner said the shop did a thorough check over in Montana,did they pressure test the cooling system? Also,the owner has alluded to the van getting hot already.Owning a Subaru based business,I am sure you all at RMW are well aware of how little of an amount of time overheating a Subaru engine will most certainly cause bad head gaskets...This is about the only weakness in the Subaru design.
Its not that im a pessamist,I just dont believe in getting a customer in the shop under the assumption that the fix is simple,when there is a 50/50 chance in all fairness that the van will need head gaskets.I believe this is setting the customer up for a fifty percent chance of disappointment and ultimately dissatisfaction in your shop/online diagnosis.
That being said,I come from the front range,and your shop has a SUPERB reputation,its just human nature for the customer now to EXPECT the best case scenario based on your posting. |
I get what you are saying for sure. It is just my interpretation of the information supplied in this thread that it is more like a 85/15% chance of head gasket failure. I am not a big fan of going to worst case scenario without accurate diagnosis. That being said, I have probably already said to much. We all know how the internet tone can be twisted and miscommunicated. It really is a horrible way to try and convey your thoughts and opinions. _________________ Rocky Mountain Westy Inc.
www.rockymountainwesty.com
970-310-3441
[email protected]
The Splitzgauer build (when I have time to work on it and update the thread)
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=497133 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
flomulgator Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2013 Posts: 950 Location: Leavenworth, WA
|
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 10:18 am Post subject: |
|
|
Question for my own edification:
I've heard of head gasket issues being worse on a particular series of EJ25 engines. Are the gaskets relatively more robust on the older EG33 / EJ22 head desgin? _________________ She's built like a steakhouse, but she handles like a bistro! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
insyncro Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002 Posts: 15086 Location: New York
|
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 10:51 am Post subject: |
|
|
The Samba Forums, pure optimism |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Jake de Villiers Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2007 Posts: 5911 Location: Tsawwassen, BC
|
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 12:03 pm Post subject: |
|
|
flomulgator wrote: |
Question for my own edification:
I've heard of head gasket issues being worse on a particular series of EJ25 engines. Are the gaskets relatively more robust on the older EG33 / EJ22 head design? |
The weak head gaskets were on the EJ25, EJ25D and the very early EJ251, the first iterations of the EJ25 engine series from 1996 - 1999. Replacement head gaskets are available that make those engines as tight as the later versions. _________________ '84 Vanagon GL 1.9 WBX
'86 Westy Weekender Poptop/2.5 Subaru/5 Speed Posi/Audi Front Brakes/16 x 7 Mercedes Wheels - answers to 'Dixie'
@jakedevilliersmusic1
http://sites.google.com/site/subyjake/mydixiedarlin%27
www.crescentbeachguitar.com
www.thebassspa.com |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|