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How to install power locks in a bay window bus
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tootype2crazy
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 6:44 pm    Post subject: How to install power locks in a bay window bus Reply with quote

I hate, hate, hate, walking around the bus and locking all the doors, especially with our arctic winters here in the midwest. So I am installing power locks with remote key fobs in my bus.

I got Spal's 4 door kit. With this kit the two front doors will lock or unlock all the doors when the plunger is activated or the key is turned from the outside. And of course the wireless system will do the same. Join me in my project of giving all 4 of the doors (including the rear hatch) power-actuated locks. Progress will be slow because it's winter here and I have no garage. Most of the time I just bundle up but when the temp gets below 25F my hands don't work.

The first thing I decided to tackle was the sliding door. Now to get power into the sliding door you can't just run a wire into it because the door moves so much. So I got Spal's sliding door contact kit. It is very similar to the contacts in a vanagon.

Installing it is tricky because the bus b pillar is so thin, and my bus is a sunroof bus so there is a tube behind the b-pillar. Plus the door doesn't go too far inside the bus when it closes. After I installed the sliding door half of the contacts I could see they were contacting on the weather strip channel, not good.

So I got a strip of metal and welded it to the b pillar and then welded a cap on it where the contact can sit flat. Plus the back of the contact does not protrude into the b pillar where the sunroof drain resides. It looks pretty good, almost like the factory did it. I still have to paint and run the wires to it down the b pillar.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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1978 Sunroof Deluxe Bus (daily driver)
1978 Transporter (mom's, making into a camper)
1970 Single Cab 2.1 turbo/EFI 6 Rib, 78 front beam, vanagon backing plates on rear (project)
2001 GTI VR6 (wife's)


Last edited by tootype2crazy on Sun Jan 12, 2014 10:09 pm; edited 1 time in total
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old DKP driver
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 7:18 pm    Post subject: Spal's lock kit Reply with quote

Yes, the Spal's lock kit is similar to the Vanagon factory installation
but,then again, not.

Hope it turns out okay for you.
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TomWesty
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arctic Winters in St. Louis? Rolling Eyes
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vwwestyman
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TomWesty wrote:
Arctic Winters in St. Louis? Rolling Eyes


As of right now, 10:42 am 12/30/13 the temperature in St Louis is 14f. Anchorage Alaska is 16.

Both sound pretty arctic to me! Very Happy

I have always liked the idea of central locking. Lower down on my priority list for sure, but it is somewhere on the list of things I'd like to do. (My bus ends up not getting locked very often because of the reasons the OP mentions.)
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tootype2crazy
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TomWesty wrote:
Arctic Winters in St. Louis? Rolling Eyes


It has to do with the flow of the jet stream. It flows directly over St. Louis and pulls down air out of the arctic on top of us. If the jet stream moves up, we get southern weather. Saturday it was 68F right now it's 17f.
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1978 Transporter (mom's, making into a camper)
1970 Single Cab 2.1 turbo/EFI 6 Rib, 78 front beam, vanagon backing plates on rear (project)
2001 GTI VR6 (wife's)
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tootype2crazy
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwwestyman wrote:
I have always liked the idea of central locking. Lower down on my priority list for sure, but it is somewhere on the list of things I'd like to do. (My bus ends up not getting locked very often because of the reasons the OP mentions.)


The reason I am documenting my process is because there are no threads in this forum on how to do this, at least that I could find. Hopefully it will help give some others ideas on how to do it. The rear hatch is going to be the most challenging because of the lock design. I've got theories on how to do it but it's going to require some significant fabrication.
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air-cooled or nothing for me
1978 Sunroof Deluxe Bus (daily driver)
1978 Transporter (mom's, making into a camper)
1970 Single Cab 2.1 turbo/EFI 6 Rib, 78 front beam, vanagon backing plates on rear (project)
2001 GTI VR6 (wife's)
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ivwshane
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I look forward to your progress, thanks for posting!
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TomWesty wrote:
Arctic Winters in St. Louis? Rolling Eyes

Oh boo who try living with cold and snow on the ground for 6 month out of the year.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the lowest I saw this winter was around 45f. It's a bummer having to wear a long sleeve shirt when I have to go out into the garage. Wink

tootype2crazy do you have pictures of the actuators installed?
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tootype2crazy
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let's stop arguing about the weather in this thread please.

Back on topic

Today I installed the computers for the system as well as ran all the wiring (almost). What a pain in the ass it is to run wiring up the a-pillars! I have yet to run the wire down the b-pillar for the slider. I started to do it but it was getting dark so I had to come in. It seems like it is not going to be easy because the top of the b-pillar is sealed up pretty well.

Here is where I mounted the computers:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The smaller box in the foreground is Spal's brain for the lock system, the larger one is the wireless brain. The wireless brain's mounting tabs broke off the moment I started to screw them in so I ended up zip tying it down. It's in there well so I'm not too worried.

I have not yet installed the actuators but when I do I will post up pictures here.
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air-cooled or nothing for me
1978 Sunroof Deluxe Bus (daily driver)
1978 Transporter (mom's, making into a camper)
1970 Single Cab 2.1 turbo/EFI 6 Rib, 78 front beam, vanagon backing plates on rear (project)
2001 GTI VR6 (wife's)
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jakokombi
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kite string blown through the pillars with compressed air will make pulling wires a cake walk. Wink
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tootype2crazy
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jakokombi wrote:
Kite string blown through the pillars with compressed air will make pulling wires a cake walk. Wink


Good tip, I'll try that for sure. I was using a small gauge steel wire. Where the a-pillar opens up under the dash the wire more or less has to make a right angle out of the pillar. It was very tricky to get it to do that.
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air-cooled or nothing for me
1978 Sunroof Deluxe Bus (daily driver)
1978 Transporter (mom's, making into a camper)
1970 Single Cab 2.1 turbo/EFI 6 Rib, 78 front beam, vanagon backing plates on rear (project)
2001 GTI VR6 (wife's)
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tootype2crazy
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 31, 2013 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well it only took me about 2 1/2 hours to get the wire down the b-pillar today Mad. There are so many things protruding into the pillar that getting anything in there is quite difficult. I tried the kite string but it just got caught on something and wouldn't go any further. I ended up getting a heavier steel wire and making a twist handle on the end like this _/`\_ so I could twist it on its way down. It finally went all the way down and I got the wired pulled through.

Then I set my sights on how I am going to get the actuator to work with the sliding door handle. I took it off and inspected the back and found that the lock button has a nice tab just hanging out on it that doesn't really do much but move back and forth with the knob.

This tab is circled in these photos
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


So I cut open the bottom of the handle so I could access in there and then took a drill bit and drilled a hole in that tab. I then took an actuator rod and bent it to a 's' shape on the very end and inserted it in the hole. Then to keep it from coming out I tacked 2 welds on the rod on either side of the tab, working through the little window on the back of the handle. It works really well and only requires about 4 pounds to operate it. The actuators push and pull 8 pounds so it should work out nice.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now I just have to install it back into the door and then mount the actuator and hook it up. While it's out I am going to clean out the inside of the handle and lube it too.
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air-cooled or nothing for me
1978 Sunroof Deluxe Bus (daily driver)
1978 Transporter (mom's, making into a camper)
1970 Single Cab 2.1 turbo/EFI 6 Rib, 78 front beam, vanagon backing plates on rear (project)
2001 GTI VR6 (wife's)
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Dansux
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like the progress so far!

The door panel fits kind of snug at the bottom of the sliding door lock/handle. What are your plans to keep the actuating rod from rubbing against the door panel.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TomWesty wrote:
Arctic Winters in St. Louis? Rolling Eyes

Damn! I retract that question! Embarassed Stay warm man!
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tootype2crazy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TomWesty wrote:
TomWesty wrote:
Arctic Winters in St. Louis? Rolling Eyes

Damn! I retract that question! Embarassed Stay warm man!


Yeah the -30F windchill had me thinking about the weather argument in this thread, lol. Don't expect any updates on the power locks with this weather. I am now saving to build a garage add-on to my house. In about 10 years time the weather wont be an issue anymore Shocked.
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air-cooled or nothing for me
1978 Sunroof Deluxe Bus (daily driver)
1978 Transporter (mom's, making into a camper)
1970 Single Cab 2.1 turbo/EFI 6 Rib, 78 front beam, vanagon backing plates on rear (project)
2001 GTI VR6 (wife's)
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tootype2crazy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dansux wrote:
I like the progress so far!

The door panel fits kind of snug at the bottom of the sliding door lock/handle. What are your plans to keep the actuating rod from rubbing against the door panel.


The handle is now installed, I still have to hook up the connection to the actuator, it is also installed. Wiring is in order too. I almost got it all done but a new bus got delivered to me and I got all giddy checking it out, then the next day the the blizzard came. Here are some shots of the handle in place. The door panel shan't be a problem:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I will post up more whole pictures when I get to working on it again. I am going to install a plastic grommet in that hole for a pro look.
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air-cooled or nothing for me
1978 Sunroof Deluxe Bus (daily driver)
1978 Transporter (mom's, making into a camper)
1970 Single Cab 2.1 turbo/EFI 6 Rib, 78 front beam, vanagon backing plates on rear (project)
2001 GTI VR6 (wife's)
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tootype2crazy
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good news! The sliding door lock is fully functional. I got the actuator rod hooked up and adjusted and finished up the wiring on the sliding door today (was waiting for a F-crimp OE style wire crimper and terminals to show up in the mail, it rocks and all my terminals are now factory style!!!!). I tested it with a spare battery and boom and bam, it works like a charm! I am very happy. I love it when a plan comes together. I left my phone at work but when I get it back I will post up a vid of it in action. Next I will be moving on to the rear hatch, which is a real head scratcher because of the lock design. Last will be the front doors and the final wiring under the dash.
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air-cooled or nothing for me
1978 Sunroof Deluxe Bus (daily driver)
1978 Transporter (mom's, making into a camper)
1970 Single Cab 2.1 turbo/EFI 6 Rib, 78 front beam, vanagon backing plates on rear (project)
2001 GTI VR6 (wife's)
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very interesting. I'm wanting to do something like this with my bus. Keep up the good work!
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tootype2crazy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The power locks are now done. I had a brief window of nice weather last week and got them done.

Here is a shot of how the sliding door is done:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I had to cut that big hole to get the actuator down in the door. Attaching the rod inside the door was fun.

Here is the device I made (sorry for my crude welding, I was welding thick pieces of metal and wanted the welds to take for strength).

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


To make it I got a 3/8 thick 9/16 inch long #8 steel screw stand-off and a 4mm tool steel rod from Mcmaster-Carr. I welded little pieces of metal on the spacer to act as a block for the lock button and to keep the spacer from spinning. I slipped the spacer onto the rod and welded pieces of angle iron on the ends and then welded that hole bit to a piece of sheet metal. The sheet metal got holes drilled in it and the spacer got a rod welded to it and it got installed like this:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


To install it I had to take the latch out so I could drill two holes and weld in some 6mm x 1.0 weld nuts.

Here you can see the actuator installed and wired up:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Then I moved to the front doors. They were much easier and a lot faster to accomplish.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


In this photo you can see the small hole I had to cut to gain access to the door lock rod as well as to make room for the clamp that holds the actuator rod to the door lock rod.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


In this photo you can see where the actuator is installed. That door was a junkyard find because my original one was all smashed up, in case you are wondering. The bus will be getting paint soon.

And here is a video I made of them in action.


Link

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air-cooled or nothing for me
1978 Sunroof Deluxe Bus (daily driver)
1978 Transporter (mom's, making into a camper)
1970 Single Cab 2.1 turbo/EFI 6 Rib, 78 front beam, vanagon backing plates on rear (project)
2001 GTI VR6 (wife's)
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