Black Fastback Build Thread

[Volktales]

Glad those seats worked out in the end. Going to look great!
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1974 "Restfalia" Camper 2000 cc EFI 2001-
1970 Beetle first car, rotten, yard art 1985-
1966 Sunroof Beetle, restored 1998-
1964 Ghia, ongoing project 2007-
1962 Beetle Beryl,original paint survivor 2012-
1970 Savannah Beige Beetle 2012-
1992 16v GTI, 100% stock 2006-
1991 "Terseo", wife's old daily 1995-
1969 Chevrolet CST/10 (family owned since new)
1965 Gold Corvair Monza 2021-
1966 and 1965 Monza 2022-

[Clatter]

Thanks for the props.
And the feedback, really..

I went ahead and assembled the arms anyway..


After now getting my own shop press,
it's fun finding all kinds of new uses for it.

The old hammer/driver thing seems positively caveman now!


And,
Cummon.. Try digging the hammertone thing..

Regular old gloss black woulda looked really awful,
Because i didn't get my scars from surgery smoothed out well enough for gloss black.
You'll have to trust me that this looks better,
because it hides the carnage.

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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[ibjack]

I have no problems with the hammertone, my comment was about someone using it to paint their car with it. It was either this or the worse case of orange peel I've ever seen.
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'68 Lotus White T34 automatic sunroof
'64 Manila Yellow T34
'65 Sea Blue Square Panel
the1500club.com
Shop Lacky at the T3/34 Factory, https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100094313902074

[Clatter]

[Chochobeef]

Why not just do a high temp paint on the insides of the boxes? I would imagine the 2000 degree stuff would be plenty and the smell would be gone once cured. A coating on the outside after welding, and i'm pretty sure they would last forever.

Love what your doing, and enjoy the updates.

[Bobnotch]

Steve, I don't know if you'll get any heat transfer if you coat the pipes in ceramic. To be honest, you might want to look at maybe coating them in nickel or something that won't rust, but has good heat transfer. The tins however I'd ceramic coat to keep the heat inside them.
This really is a good question on what to do. Normal bus heaters have aluminum on the pipes, and are just painted on the ends to keep them from rusting. If you just leave the pipes and attached "heat deflector tins" bare, they'll rust inside your outer tins. But I don't know if there's a good coating to use, that still allows a good heat transfer from the pipes. Maybe if the pipes and attached tins were stainless.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[Jason37]

I know you have a ton of time invested in these, but... why not ditch them in favour of headers?


And add a gas heater for warmth?

[Bobnotch]

[Jason37]

The only reason I suggested it was out of jealousy for his ability to incorporate proper heating!

I’m taking the easy way... once the bay window is out of the garage and work can again commence on the notch.

[Xevin]

Send them up to Oregon and have them plated like your fancy nuts
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Keep on Busin'

[Clatter]

I built this current motor basically around a set of heater boxes.

When picking a strategy for doing a type 4, you basically pick the header first,
And work your way through to the heads,
Then pick the cam last.

Because I went from 1.8 heads, with 41 x 35 valves,
Then went to 2.0 heads, with 42 x 36 (they work with my linkage),
I'm now going to move from a Web 494 to 163/86b.
A 2056 with 2.0 heads is really going to be choked by this stock heater exhaust,
And the dual-pattern cam will be more needed than ever.
Have really gotten carried away with this motor,
And am indeed going to be leaving a lot of power on the table running these heaters.
TWO balanced type 4 78 stroker cranks are sitting right here,
But it would be foolish to put them one this particular motor.
All it would do is make a torqued-out short-shifting tractor motor.


Now that I have a gas heater project to start (after the car is assembled )
Once the gas heater is in and working,
I'll make up a proper header, or buy a tangerine --> http://www.tangerineracing.com/otherporsche.htm
And build a motor around that,
With a big stoker crank, Nickies, big welded heads, etc.

Basically, doing these heater boxes makes it so I can get this dang thing done some day before I die!!
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Brent]

My experience with ceramic coating.

My Type 3 heater boxes are ceramic coated inside and out.

- They do not stink
- They put out plenty of heat

You can get the Tech Line products online. Same as what a 'pro' uses and you'll probably do a better job yourself for less money.

You probably don't want to soak the fabric you'll be using. So, I'd suggest coat the insides, add the fabric, then clean up the weld areas and plug weld the shrouds. Then coat the outside. That gets you as close as you can to fully coated.

Save the spray paint for an old lawnmower...
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69 Fastback Build
Berg5 Build

[Bobnotch]

[Clatter]

[ataraxia]

I dig the "Harley" sticker on your tool box...

[Brent]

[Clatter]

[Clatter]

[Clatter]

There's been a bunch of little things going on,
But,
They are just too small/petty to be worth actually posting about.
(Even for this, the most small/petty build thread on the forum).

For example,
When i took apart the squareback in the beginning of this thread,
it was a double-spring-plate setup,
And the bolts were too long.
been watching the Pick-N-Pull website for a 944.
So,
One showed up in San Jose,
So i drove there and got six bolts, six nuts, and twelve washers.. Took most of the day.
Some even stripped on the way out,
But,
Just dumb luck, there was a single-spring-plate beetle there that i got the bolts from,
and they're the same.
I also forgot how it all goes together TBPH..
So, I'll call it a win.
$2, plus gas.

Here's something worth showing?
I did up some of those rear hard lines using William's tubing stuff.
Decided to go up/over like a beetle,
instead of underneath, like a 944,
Because of the arm chop, this made sense.

I got another clutch cable in, and (hopefully) correctly measured this time,
To be sent out and shortened.

Chasing grit out of heater cable conduits..

Forgot how the flaps and cables go together for the heat vents in the rear kicks;
Got to go see my roller pan at Larry's and take a couple pics.

Assembling rear e-brake stuff.
(How do i only have one of four anti-chatter springs?
And why does Pelican get me for $70 for four?
There they were sitting on the ground at the PNP, too..

Grinding clearance, scraping off powder coat, etc. etc. etc.

Tons of little fiddly details to make all of the controls work and everything to fit at the rear of the car... Will spare you guys the details.
Tons of time, with little to show.
Sure do wish this wasn't just my mock-up mock-up,
Because the whole thing has to come back apart to fit out the door.


Progress is progress, right?
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Critter1]