Black Fastback Build Thread

[Brent]

I do like the dark red flake. How do you think it will look with your bright red brake calipers?
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69 Fastback Build
Berg5 Build

[Clatter]

[Jason37]

[Clatter]

LOL!

Can always change the center color of wheels very easily anytime.

Other things are a bit harder,
Like a cam change...

After getting my last case back from vapor blast,
(And having the vapor blast guy tell me he is soon moving out-of-state )
I decided to do some details on this other case here before getting it blasted.

They just looked kinda disappointing after vapor blast,
Last couple I did,
Because the casting, and the cleanup, is so rough.
It just shows all of the flaws in fine detail..

So I started in; I’m NOT taking the bait and going full polish.

Started with some roloc discs and flap-wheels, but scratches require polishing.
Decided to stick with a burr, like factory..

Just did a more careful job,
Doing more places,
And using a finer burr.
You can see here where Deiter or Franz back at VW used a rough burr,
And moved quickly.
I can do a bit of smoothing to make things look better,
But still basically like it was..

We’ll see how it looks after the vapor treatment;
Should be good enough for the heater box motor.

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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Jason37]

Go full polish... I dare you.

[Clatter]

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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Brent]

http://www.arnoldsdesign.com/Vapor-Blasting.html

Brad is top notch! Not local, but he does killer work.
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69 Fastback Build
Berg5 Build

[Clatter]

The build grinds very slowly along...


Been doing a bunch of this:

I'm tooling up to start rebuilding transaxles!!

First off, my vapor blaster packed up and moved out of the PRC like everyone else.
Its REAL hard to get the gumption up to box and ship cases and the like, when i used to just drop them off down the street.

Speaking of making up a box to ship; Two Saturday afternoons later..

Since the local chromers here moved away like everybody else,
or they SUCK now..
These are going to ISP for a "California Single Chrome" EPA-friendly Don't-Park-it-Outside-Overnight type of 'catalog parts' chrome job.
They will, however, straighten them out,
(which is the hard part of a bumper job),
So they should be good enough for a while.
If they still aren't up to snuff,
We'll go to Sherm's or maybe the local plater,
for a triple-chrome job.
Maybe it won't be so bad if they're already straight..

After seeing the PT bumpers side-by-side with the real thing,
It seems like the real thing is going to have to be my choice.
Even if it requires a few tries to get there..


Started ripping apart the motor for a cam change.
Since I'm running the nice 2.0 heads instead of the 1.8 S heads now,
We decided to up the cam from a 494 to a 163/86b.

Problem is, the heads have 60cc.
And you don't DARE fly-cut Type 4 heads..

My conundrum is thus; Want to get at least 9:1 CR;
(86b is 260' at .050)

Deck is .046.
Piston dish is 2.5cc
Chambers are 60cc
Total is 62.5cc
Bore is 96mm
Stroke is 71mm
This gives but a mere 8.2:1 CR

Take away the piston dish - 8.5

Deck to .040 - 8.3

Deck to .030 - 8.5

Deck to .030 and also remove piston dish - 8.8

Still not enough!

Plus,
The piston might not have that much crown meat to machine the dish out,
.030 isn't really enough deck (technically speaking),
And shortening cylinders hasn't exactly been the most successful operation I've paid someone to do lately..

Upping the stroke to 78mm, however..
This gives me an easy 9:1 CR at .040 deck,
9.1 at .035
Without touching the pistons or the cylinders,
And all i have to do is buy some shims.
(And take the flywheel/crank/pp/fan in for a rebalance... )

So,
The main question comes down to the exhaust at this point...
Does, or does not, the hogged-out, shortened, 411/412 pipes, and S&S header flow enough for a 2270 and 86b??
Shore would hate to leave a bunch of power on the table,
And make the dang thing hard to tune or hot running, or...?

Shore do wish Jake was back on the forums all the time like the old days.

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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Bobnotch]

Might send Nate an e-mail, since he's not on here that often either. You could try it with Jake as well. Can't guarantee either will reply back. Is there anyone at the Type 4 store that would know?
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[Clatter]

Aawwww, yeah.. Mon-ay!!
Gotta love new tools!
Check out the postcard Samstag Sales sent with the tools..

ANyways,
I'm trying trying to get up the nerve to cut these rare/expen$ive 2.0 914 heads...
Skeered to do it!

In order to use the beehives,
(The only singles I can find up to the task),
You have to cut them to type1 single spring specs:

Because the heads originally came with 9mm exhaust stems,
The exhaust guide boss is gonna end up a little thin..

Just for good measure, I called Web.
They have a set of springs that they claim are type4 specific,
So the singles don't need the boss trimmed, like type 1 springs.
(They also said the singles are duals with the inners just missing).
And, of course, the 86b wouldn't work with singles..

I just spent $150 on the set to have them here to measure and noodle with;
To try and get my courage up.
Scat T1 duals are like $35..
Gotta pay to play..
Er, or just measure?

We'll use them on the big motor; the one with the 86b/86c..
And the polished case..
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Clatter]

I went by Larry the Painter’s..

And Look!
He’s working on my car...!

I think I’m being patronized..
He knows Tuesday is my day off,
And a Jaguar and a Beetle have since now both done and gone.

BUT,

My car was crookeder, and is going to be straighter, than either of those.
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Jason37]

I would avoid cutting those heads by any means necessary. On mine the guides were loose and I have to go one oversize. Scared if you take that much off, and you need to go oversized guides your screwed.


And you need to sneak away on a workday to see if he is working on it...

[Clatter]

[Brent]

[Bobnotch]

[Clatter]

"Take all the time you need.. Here's an extra thousand dollars.."

"Can I get you anything?"

You catch far more ants with honey.

The car is really getting straighter and straighter...!

That section he's working on right there; OOoooo…
He's SO cussing my name..!

"WHO is the Motherf... that Warped this SO Goddam..”

Any of you who might have read this last year when I was even doing a little how-to..
Just do the exact opposite of what I say, and you'll be on the right track.
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Clatter]

So, I waffle back and forth,
Mocking up the 2.0 heads and then the 1.8 heads..

Trying on the exhaust, and fiddling.

One thing that springs to life with moving from 2056 to 2270, is the fact that the header won't fit anymore.
If I space out the cylinders with shims, the header tubes will have to be lengthened..

The 1.8 heads give me a perfect 9.1:1 if I just bolt them on!

Dag, the pushrods are even already cut, the whole thing's already balanced...
Now I'm on a quest to put a cable linkage on it, and just run the 2056 already.
That exhaust will choke a 2270 anyways, right?

Too many choices!

Anyhow,
Actual progress cleaning up the little spots where the heater shells will weld back together.
Can't have ceramic coating fouling the welds..

Set up my spring cutter and tested it on a piece of wood.

A LOT less scary cutting a set of 1.8 heads vs. 2.0!
Another reason to keep it 2056...


Dumb stuff, but there you go.
All part of the process..
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Jason37]

I’d say go 2270.... just because you seem to like to create more work for yourself!😂

But really, finish off your exhaust, cut the 1.8l heads and run the 2056. If for some reason you find it’s under powered, build the 2270.

For your exhaust, could you spot weld it back together? Eastwood makes a mig nozzle that is designed for spot welding.

[Clatter]

Jason, you're right...

I'm out of my mind for fixing a carb linkage issue with a stroker crank!



Have decided to put the fusking 2056 together already (With the 163/86b),
And get on with life..
Will just force myself to figure out a linkage;
Going to order a Sync Link for IDFs and fab some DCNF baseplates methinks.


Anyways, on that note, some things happened.

Finally committed to heater box assembly...

Started out by dousing the inner heat exchanger/stub pipes with phosphoric acid.
This will hopefully keep the majority of rust at bay,
But promote the exchange of heat from header to air,
(And not stink too bad).

The phosphoric got rinsed off after it had a chance to react a while and convert rust,
Plus, it got splashed in cracks and crevices that might not get coated otherwise.

Cut some strips of super-high-temp insulation from Thermal Zero,
And laid them on the bottom side of the box.
Gravity should keep them in place,
Plus, that's the 'cold side' of the box.
Doing the top side would involve some shells of some sort or another,
(like the factory did),
To keep the insulation from falling down and blocking the airflow/fins.
That was just too much effort, and i don't really need that much heat.

Here's the header in place;
You can see the phosphoric flashing off chalky as it dries.

Spent a bunch of time with different tools leveraging the shells back together.
Folding over seams with all manner of smasher tools and prying/hammering, etc.
They got mocked up onto the motor several times before any welds were made.

Once i was 100% sure the location was copacetic,
I layed on a big blobs o' MIG.

Seam smashing could really progress to tightness once welds were done.
Having shells located tightly to headers means i can crimp everything tight-tight.

Here's as far as i got - one side welded, the other side ready for weld.
Tomorrow's plans include finish welding, finish grind, and double-check fits like alternator bracket, etc.

They will go to ceramic coat, but what color??

Silver fake-chrome looks great, and really holds up well.
It lasts the longest, and i definitely want the extractor tubes that color.
But what about the boxes themselves?? Kind of want a dark gray, or cast iron gray color?
Want them to go 'away' or 'back' because they are so ugly, and detract.
(Plus they will be lumpy from all my hackage )
Maybe ceramic coat the fan shroud -and- the heater boxes dark gray?
Flat black?
Maybe all silver all the way thru..?
Wonder if ceramic coat works with that mag shroud?


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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Jason37]

Have you thought about a silver vein type coating on the boxes? Hides a lot more than a flat coat. And in case you haven’t heard it enough, you are killing it. Your drive, passion and desire to make it right is impressive.