My first 2332 build. HELP!

flyboat · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 7:49 pm Post subject:

To each his own, Right?

He's a business man. He'll sell you what you want, grumbling all the way. lol

He's been a tremendous help to us all
_________________
79 super Vert
62 Ragtop Bug
66 tintop Westy
Porsche 914
09 Z06 Vette track car

db69 · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 7:46 pm Post subject:

Yeah I love ACN's site it has been a huge help and so has John but I'm not sure he will sell me any parts if I don't use the short rods! Lol!

flyboat · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 7:23 pm Post subject:

You're better off buying the heads and intakes from the same supplier. You know they're made to work together that way. Get the carbs and linkages separate. If you go with the CB heads and intake, they can help with the carbs and linkages too I suppose. I like Aircooled.net for a lot of my parts as well. John is very good with carbs, jetting setup etc.
_________________
79 super Vert
62 Ragtop Bug
66 tintop Westy
Porsche 914
09 Z06 Vette track car

db69 · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 7:13 pm Post subject:

So would I be better off buying carbs seperate and the bigger intakes and linkage etc. or a carb kit? I assume the intakes with a kit would have to be welded and match ported?

flyboat · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 7:09 pm Post subject:

bolt on. But if you want the same heads as I have, you need they're big beef intakes to go with them. They too are cnc port matched. Otherwise you'll have to have a regular set of intake ports welded up and port matched. PITA
_________________
79 super Vert
62 Ragtop Bug
66 tintop Westy
Porsche 914
09 Z06 Vette track car

db69 · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 7:05 pm Post subject:

Are the cnc ported heads bolt on or should they be cleaned up or polished or otherwise prepped before installation?

flyboat · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 6:39 pm Post subject:

db69 · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 6:24 pm Post subject:

Yes balancing and mock ups for clearance an Comp. Height are definitely in the plan. Now that we got the rod issue out of the way how do those heads compare to 42 intake heads (performance vs longevity comparison )?

flyboat · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 6:10 pm Post subject:

flyboat · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 5:59 pm Post subject:

So about all the discussion on rod length. Here are my thoughts. The shorter the rod the quicker it will turn up. It'll have better throttle response. the down side is side loading. the rod is at a bit more angle when the piston is about to come back up. this creates side load. Is that a problem. Well, usually not unless it is ridiculous side angle. It just means your engine life may be less than otherwise. But its a performance engine anyway. It's not going to go 100,000 miles with extreme side load and high compression and big cubes. Why? the main reason is you wont be able to keep your foot out of it Very Happy

If longevity was important, go with a longer rod. I like 5.5 with 84 mm stroke. So, set the engine up with a low deck and a large combustion chamber. You'll have to deck the head and then open the chamber up so the compression is where you want it to be. This will give you a long rod for longevity, and small deck height for proper combustions set up. And an engine that won't be too wide. A stock style head cut .120" will net a combustion chamber of 39cc. To get a good deck height, you will want to be in the low 50's at least. There is plenty of material for that. Or you can buy the heads like you want with the chamber like you want from some of the good head machinist.

Long story short, all of the combinations work. Do you want snappy, or do you want longevity. or do you want a narrow engine for your engine bay. Everything is a trade off.
_________________
79 super Vert
62 Ragtop Bug
66 tintop Westy
Porsche 914
09 Z06 Vette track car

db69 · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 5:53 pm Post subject:

Dan Ruddock · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 5:39 pm Post subject:

Bad bug · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 5:02 pm Post subject:

This question is for the guys that have used 5.4 inch rods on a 84mm crank. Did the piston exit the bottom of the sleeve on the down stroke.

mark tucker · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 4:49 pm Post subject:

wonder why mine fit?oh ya I fitted it....just like everything else...batterys not included and some assy required.

[email protected] · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:40 am Post subject:

it may seem that way until you have to

find out the engine tin no longer fits properly; gaps everywhere
Find out the exhaust doesn't fit any more and must be modified
find out the engine is not wider and is a $)*#)& to fit into the engine bay.
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mark tucker · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 9:32 am Post subject:

ease of assy.....hmm either way you will have to figure deck&shim for it.unless you happon uppon some majick parts that do it by them selves. theo says a .040" shim shouls do it with 5.4 rods. add .100 for a 5.5,add another .100 for a 5.6....but is theo building your motor?
so i think it has been said the short rod will take some extra clearancing on the pistons...the 5.5 dosent....isant that easyer???

db69 · Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 2:40 am Post subject:

I think uhh... Eenie meenie miney moe...I think for me it's going to be 5.4 rods for the best of both worlds. No piston skirt clearance issues and no width issue. And I may be wrong but it seams like there is a lot of hair splitting going on wih the whole rod length discussion here. Correct me if I'm wrong with facts and numbers please failure rate of short vs long rods and torque short vs long. My main priority with the rods is ease of assembly

oldschool5er · Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 7:55 pm Post subject:

There are no issues with running a 5.4 rod with a 84mm crank with it being a "short Rod". That rod ratio was even used in other engines from Detroit. It generates Torque and as for breaking a good quality rod (not Stock) I call BS. I have built so many race motors using this ratio I have lost count and with absolutley No failures. I have used this ratio in my own motor's for decades and even after pulling them apart 10 years later and many miles of use NO more side wear than any other well designed and built motor. Like they said running Porsche rods with 84mm strokes has been done by me and many many others since the 70's but those rods had to be prepped and at the time were the only rods available. I just tore down a engine using H-Beam rods and Wiseco slipper skirts that was built 15 years ago. It was still running when it was torn down. Guess what? normal wear and this was on a 9:1 motor. Carillo Porsche rod length Berg crank.

slalombuggy · Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 6:06 pm Post subject:

db69 · Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 4:46 pm Post subject:


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