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Subaru ej25 2.5 wiring harness question, need advice
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whynotvw
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 5:39 am    Post subject: Subaru ej25 2.5 wiring harness question, need advice Reply with quote

I'm getting a real good deal on a 2000 ej25 complete engine with about 80K miles. But it doesn't come with wiring harness but it does come with ECU. How difficult is it to get a wiring harness ? Or should I keep looking for a complete engine that comes with wiring harness.

by the way the engine is coming from 2000 impreza 2.5 rs 5 sp

thanks for the advice in advance.
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Syncro Jael
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are a few places you can purchase a finished harness.
This is just one of them...

http://subaruvanagon.com/conversion_services_01.htm

My EJ22 has been in for 10 years 104K miles. No issues, always starts, always purrs like a new kitten. When it decides to sleep, I will install another one just like it. Laughing
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DAV!D
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go to car-parts.com and search that car model in your area and see what comes up. Go to ebay and do the same.

You are best off to try and find a u pull it type junk yard that you can pull the harness yourself.
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ftp2leta
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 7:49 am    Post subject: Re: Subaru ej25 2.5 wiring harness question, need advice Reply with quote

whynotvw wrote:
Or should I keep looking for a complete engine that comes with wiring harness.


Yes, or, find any harness and plenum between 99-2005

Ben
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I prefer to use all matched parts coming from running donors Wink
Makes life much easier.
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whynotvw
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everyone for your input. The seller decided to sell his wiring harness and ecu after all.

The engine has 80k miles should I change the head gaskets and do the timing kit while the motor is out?
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

whynotvw wrote:
Thanks everyone for your input. The seller decided to sell his wiring harness and ecu after all.

The engine has 80k miles should I change the head gaskets and do the timing kit while the motor is out?


My engine had ~60,000 miles and I did the timing belt, water pump, etc. Might as well while its in your hands! Wink

I didn't replace the head gaskets.
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whynotvw
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jake de Villiers wrote:
whynotvw wrote:
Thanks everyone for your input. The seller decided to sell his wiring harness and ecu after all.

The engine has 80k miles should I change the head gaskets and do the timing kit while the motor is out?


My engine had ~60,000 miles and I did the timing belt, water pump, etc. Might as well while its in your hands! Wink

I didn't replace the head gaskets.


How many miles do you have now total.
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ftp2leta
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 5:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

whynotvw wrote:
should I change the head gaskets and do the timing kit while the motor is out?


You should not even ask that question. DO IT.
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rubbachicken
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

change them while the engine is out, it'll save you taking the motor out to do the job later.
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Syncro Jael
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

X2 On the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, pulleys, etc.

Here is a video on the process. Yours will be a snap with the engine out! Cool
I did mine with the engine in. Removing the exhaust and tin was easier than pulling the engine. Gotta love Suby's. Laughing


Link

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ftp2leta
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Head torque sequence

Note - oil head bolt threads and washer

1) Tighten all bolts to 29 N-m (3.0 kgf-m, 22 ft-lbs) in alphabetical sequence.
2) Then tighten all bolts to 69 N.m (7.0 kgf-m, 51 ft-lbs) in alphabetical sequence.
3) Back off all bolts by 180" first; back them off by 180" again.
4) Tighten the bolts (a) and (b) to 34 N-m (3.5kgf-m, 25 ft-lb).
5) Tighten the bolts (c), (d), (e) and (f) to 15 N.m (1.5 kgf-m, 11 ft-lb).
6) Tighten all bolts by 80 to 90" in alphabetical sequence.
CAUTION: Do not tighten the bolts more than 90".
7) Further tighten all bolts by 80 to 90" in alphabetical sequence.
CAUTION: Ensure the total "re-tightening angle" [in the former two steps], do not exceed 180".

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

whynotvw wrote:
Jake de Villiers wrote:
whynotvw wrote:
Thanks everyone for your input. The seller decided to sell his wiring harness and ecu after all.

The engine has 80k miles should I change the head gaskets and do the timing kit while the motor is out?


My engine had ~60,000 miles and I did the timing belt, water pump, etc. Might as well while its in your hands! Wink

I didn't replace the head gaskets.


How many miles do you have now total.


I've put a little over 40,000 miles on the van since the transplant. Its my daily driver.
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furrylittleotter
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They had sorted out the head gasket issues by 2000 so I would not change the gaskets. it is due for a timing belt though if it is still the original.

Have fun with the conversion and welcome to the wonderful world of Subaru power. It is a glorious thing! Frees up so much space under the rear seat because you do snot need to bring half of a spare engine with you everywhere.

(for the record you DO NOT need to pull the motor to change the head gaskets if you ever need to. I don't know where some of these folks get their information, it is obviously not first or even second hand experience).


Neil2

*Edit*, BTW where are you located, CA?
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

furrylittleotter wrote:
They had sorted out the head gasket issues by 2000 so I would not change the gaskets.


They sorted out the internal head gasket leak and gained an external leak.

Make sure you get your gaskets from Subaru or allwheeldriveauto

Here is a link that will tell you all you would ever want to know about Subaru head gaskets

http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/

Jeff
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zippyslug31
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Certainly would be easier to do the belts with the motor sitting on an engine stand, but aren't they "pretty easy" to do even with the motor installed?
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Howesight
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

zippyslug31 wrote:
Certainly would be easier to do the belts with the motor sitting on an engine stand, but aren't they "pretty easy" to do even with the motor installed?


Depending on the adaptor (SC, Outfront, Kennedy, RMW), access to the timing belt area varies. It's not just that. You also need to remove all accessory belts, your coolant crossover pipe (unless you have a reversed coolant manifold), remove the accessory drive tensioners, remove your muffler, and on and on. No sane Subaru tech would change the timing belt without changing the water pump. So you are draining coolant also. Then you are filling, burping etc.

If the engine is out, it is a breeze doing all these things and you don't spend hours stooped over. At least that's my experience. At a minimum, you will want to change cam seals, meaning the valve covers are coming off - - not a comfortable job under the van.

The head gasket job is easy on the 2.2 or 2.5. Subaru head gaskets are not something that might go wrong. Instead, it's best to think of them as consumable items. When you inevitably have a running issue in future (because sensors do fail), you will not be wondering if the issue has to do with a failing head gasket, timing belt or water pump.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ftp2leta wrote:
whynotvw wrote:
should I change the head gaskets and do the timing kit while the motor is out?


You should not even ask that question. DO IT.


LOL Yes sir, thanks Ben,

Question, I have two choices, One is with full ej25 with the full ej25 wiring harness with complete rebuild.

or

ej25 short block with ej22 heads so (franenmotor) same complete rebuild. i can use my current ej22 wiring harness With this set up I save money on wiring harness

so what would you do.? anyone
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ftp2leta
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jrobewesty wrote:

They sorted out the internal head gasket leak and gained an external leak.

Make sure you get your gaskets from Subaru or allwheeldriveauto

Jeff


Voila!

Worse case it's a leak at the lower oil return passage (bottom).

Engine lowered for head gasket change (2009, made a terrible stupid mistake wile doing the timing and bent 2 valves - 2 hours job):

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Some reading for you guys (hidden page on my site):


http://www.benplace.com/subaru_25_bent_valve.htm

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



That said, my 2 personal car are 2 old Subaru (2002), a forester and a legacy. Both have around 200,000km. Both are on original head gasket.

The Forester as BAD piston slap since we owned it (4-5 years).

In my life I had worse problem with Honda's and Toyota's so Subaru's are no worse or better then a lot of other car companies...
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 7:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

whynotvw wrote:
two choices, One is with full ej25 with the full ej25 wiring harness with complete rebuild.

or

ej25 short block with ej22 heads so (franenmotor) same complete rebuild. i can use my current ej22 wiring harness With this set up I save money on wiring harness

so what would you do.? anyone


Frankenmotor, of course! With Stan's header if possible. I'm building a custom one with even smaller equal length primaries but Stan's is sweet looking!

Neil2
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