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Shifter Parts ID T2
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:56 am    Post subject: Shifter Parts ID T2 Reply with quote

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Shifter Parts ID
First I would like to thank all that contributed pictures and information!

Diagram
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SHIFTER
68-79 Shifter 211 711 121E
Shifter rattles, this pin and spring may be rusted solid.
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B. 111 711 115A Shift Lever boot 68-79
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SHIFTER STOP PLATE
68-79 Stop plate 211-711-149
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Left is OE: note ears on plate and Opening is norrower
Right aftermarket:
Note: Ski ramp goes on right when installed. Not left as pictured.

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Note: Ski ramp goes on right when installed. Not left as pictured.
wcfvw69, noted ski ramp on oe stop plate was lower and gap was narrower. He noted that the oe stop plate made shifting smoother and shortened the throw. In this thread.
Shifter plate height question

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Stop plate orientation: short raised tab to left side, ski ramp to right side.

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This raised portion is supposed to be there..
Note: Ski ramp goes on right when installed. Not left as pictured

SHIFT ROD BUSHINGS
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E. 211-711-197 Front Shift Rod Bushing, 1968 to 1973
Thanks to aeromech: Front shift bushing installed.
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Before Front shift rod bushing replacement.

Link

After Front shift rod bushing replacement.

Link


F. 211-711-182 Front Shift Rod Bushing, 1974 to 1979
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Thanks to aeromech for the pic.
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Note: It has been reported that the two Rear shift rod bushings have been found reversed of the following order. So make sure the locating nubs line up!
211-711-185B has one locating nub, NO "C" spring.
211-711-179 has two locating nubs and "C" spring goes inside feathered end.


L. 211-711-185B Bushing, 1968-77 (To Chassis #217 2053 838) (1) Front of Rear Shift Rod.
L. 211-711-185B Bushing, 1977-79 (From Chassis #217 2053 839) (2) Front & Middle of Rear Shift Rod
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Note one locating nub, NO "C" spring.
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M. 211-711-179 Bushing, Rear of Rear Shift Rod 1968 to 1979
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Note two locating nubs and "C" spring goes inside feathered end.

72 ONLY GEARSHIFT ROD REAR
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24. 211-711-221 Guide gearshift rod rear 8/72-72 only
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N. 211- 711 167A Early Rear Shift Rod Boot
N. 211-711-183B Late Rear Shift Rod Boot
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211- 711 167A Early Rear Shift Rod Boot.
This boot started on Splits and was used on Early Bays. I was unable to find, the cut off date.

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211-711-183B Late Rear Shift Rod Boot. No start or end of production dates.

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Here they are next to each other.

P. 311-798-211 Rear Shift Rod Coupler 68-79
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Note: the bent shift coupler on the right is the result of not supporting the rear of the transaxle with the engine pulled.


Link

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Won't fit: It was suggested there may be a burr on the shaft.

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R. 211-711-189 Coupler Set Screw
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1115212.jpg
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square head with hole for safety wire.

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211-711-189A Socket head without safety wire hole, that is self locking.

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Socket head with hole for safety wire.

Front Shift Rods. Ok, here is where I get lost.

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G. 211-711-155E Front Shift Rod 1968 to 1972 (To Chassis #212 2300 000) 

?????????????????????????????
G. 211-711-155G Front Shift Rod 1973 (Chassis #213 2000 001 to 213 2300 000)

?????????????????????????????
G.  211-711-155F Front Shift Rod 1974 to 1975 (Chassis #214 2000 001 to 215 2300 000)

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G.  211-711-155H Front Shift Rod 1976 to 1979 (From Chassis #216 2000 001)

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H.  211-711-169A Front Shift Rod Coupler, set (grub) screw 211-711-189. Same as shift coupler.

Rear Shift Rod

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K.  211-711-171D Rear Shift Rod 1968 to 1972 (To Chassis #212 2300 000)

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12. 211-711-171F Rear Shift Rod (From Chassis #212 2000 001)

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K. 211-711-171L Rear Shift Rod 1973 to 1979 (From Chassis #213 2000 001)

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17. 211-711-195 Guide tube- Rear Shift Rod (shorten to 1479 mm -58 7/32 in.)

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211-711-201 Intermediate piece- Rear Shift Rod (From Chassis #212 2000 001)

Front Shift Rod Support Repair
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68-73 front shift rod support pin repair.

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My fix for a sloppy new front shifter bushing
74-79 front shift rod support repair.

Shifter floor pan pocket repair
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Auto Shifter
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Shift coupler failures

Link


Link


Shifter stop plate adjustment
Shifter stop plate adjustement
Shifter stop plate adjustment[/b]


Last edited by Tcash on Mon Jul 09, 2018 2:14 pm; edited 26 times in total
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome. Obviously you have some free time on your hands and thanks for putting it to good use.
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Wrenchman12
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm in the middle of this task right now.. Thanks for posting so many good pictures.. Dirty greasy job but I'm hoping my bus shifts with ease once this is done!
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Wrenchman12
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so which rear coupler should I go with... Being on the east coast I usually buy parts through bus depot, but they don't seem to have the rear coupler? Only place I found rear coupler is cip1.. but they have 4 to choose from.

I'm thinking I'll go with the so called heavy duty one? Has anyone else tried it?

here's the link

http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=coupler&sort=7
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1967250s
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get the heavy duty. Some of them are really cheap and bend.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TCASH has done many items like this. They are getting better because he puts all the data for one item together.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok so I discovered today that my rear shift rod (long piece) has two bushings that are the same with only the single tab.. there is only one hole in the rod for both bushings..

here is a picture of the bushings

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So there is no way that I can put the double tab bushing with the metal ring insert on.. I have an early LATE Bay jan73.. Standard transmission bus.. looking above at the microfiche of the automatic diagram I noticed that the long shift rod of an automatic only uses one style of bushing too. Could I have an automatic shift rod in my standard bus??? They don't look to be the same.. or is it more likely some standard buses did not use the bushing with the double tabs/metal ring insert?
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There seems to be no carved in stone rule to shift rod bushings, different years and different months have different styles and combinations.
You can file off one of the plastic titties to use the double one or drill another hole in the rod.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah that's a good point busdaddy.. I could just carve off one of the tabs on a double tab bushing.. or maybe I should just put in two of the single tab bushings like it has been and forget about it.. I've been driving it like that for 15 yrs and its likely been like that for a lot longer? Really think getting all the old grease and dirt out and replacing with new.... and replacing the rear coupler (that was well good and bent) d'oh! should make a good improvement.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wrenchman12 wrote:
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Wooooo...., someone let the back of the transmission drop, while it's out now would be a good time to have a look at the bracket inside the nosecone for cracks.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here, I will add this to the thread for anyone interested.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone make a kit for this refresh? Or does everything need to be sourced seperately?
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 12:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are quite a few different ball housings and stop plates floating around. The ball housing, Bentley calls it a bracket, and I refer to it as the shifter pivot tower, come with side cutouts for stop plates with side tabs or no side cutouts for the plain stop plates without side tabs.

Early bays had the stop plates without tabs and pivot towers without the side cutouts. As far as I know they are the same as used on some years of bugs. Some bugs used stop plates with square ends.

Late bays used the stop plates with side tabs that protrude from the side cutouts in the pivot towers. The stop plate can be moved around when adjusting by pushing on the exposed tabs. The pivot tower bolts still need to be loosened to adjust but just a little bit. The early bay setup needs the 2 bolts losened a lot and the pivot tower raised up quite a ways to push in underneath with a screwdriver to reposition the stop plate.

Stop plates with side tabs require that the pivot towers with side slots be used. But the stop plates without tabs (my prefered ones) work with either style of pivot tower. Except when used with towers with slots then the slots turn into quite an air leak in the winter.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ivwshane wrote:
Does anyone make a kit for this refresh? Or does everything need to be sourced separately?

Hi
The bushings come in a kit. Everything else is separate.
Good Luck

GUACAMOLE BUS MECHANICALS SHIFTER
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="germansupplyscott"]
Tcash wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I don't know what the part number for 24 is. Or where you are going to find it.

#24 is 211 711 221. no idea where you would get this part besides old stock somewhere.

the parts book diagram (yellowed image above top) shows a '72 shift rod and the front bushing #15 as 211 711 185B which on most Buses is actually in the rear location. 211 711 179 is the bush with the metal ring inside and it is normally at the front (except '72, it looks like). So the '72 shift rod must be unique not only in it's 2-piece design but also in using the bushings in the reverse location than other years.


Thanks Scott for the part number.
On the 72. The drawing depicts bushing 179 front - 185B rear. But as you pointed out the text has 185B front - 179 rear. Wonder what is correct.

Thanks again
Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 7:22 am    Post subject: Front shifter bushing bracket repair. Reply with quote

Thanks to aeromech.

aeromech wrote:
I ran into this same issue recently with a 1976 I've been working on. Last week I installed a newly rebuilt transaxle from Transworks here in El Cajon.

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While I had the transaxle out I removed the shift rod assembly and refurbished the rod along with new nylons birdies. Once all together we went for a ride and I found shifting difficult so we started looking and found this.

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I don't have a welder so I fabricated a repair doubler from .092 stainless.

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If you're going to do this the size of the doubler should be about 1 7/8 X 2 1/4. The size of the bushing hole is 1.00 inches. Here's a pic of it installed. I mounted the doubler on the aft side and this worked out fine even though the bushing actually sits a tad bit aft from original.

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I haven't driven it yet but my guess is that this will be a good repair.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joey wrote this thread.
I changed the shift rod bushings.../WITHOUT removing the engine and transmission.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 11:51 am    Post subject: Hockey Stick guide broken and Ball worn out Reply with quote

url=http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7417386#7417386]Hockey Stick guide broken and Ball worn out[/url]

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Replaced with a metal ball.


Last edited by Tcash on Mon Jul 18, 2016 10:01 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone know the length of the shifters in the picture? I would like to know the length of the OG VW shifter, if possible, from "bell" to knob, or top of round/square hole to knob.

Thanks,
Robbie

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
Does anyone know the length of the shifters in the picture?


So after four years of hitting my forehead on the dash for third and patting the passenger on the knee for fourth, I found out that there is a distinct difference between the two shifters in the photo. The overall length of the OG shifter is about three to four inches longer, so we don't need shift extensions, but the REAL difference is the axial bend of the "elbow". See in the Bentley reverse lock out (stop) plate adjustment section, that 2nd gear should have the short lower section vertical and the main handle shaft tilted towards the driver? The crap aftermarket shifter is opposite: 1st and 2nd handle is centered, then 3rd and 4th are tilted to the right enough to annoy the passenger. I wholeheartedly despise whoever approved the aftermarket shifter production prototype…

See in the picture below how the "pipe bowl" indexing pin is tilted "up" more in the OGVW shifter on the left. Yeah, that's a BIG deal. Thanks Volkswagen.
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