Hot Judson 36er

[D-train]

ok guys, need a hand here.
have a stock 36er with judson, on the highway it runs sweet for about 20mins then gets hot and dies like no fuel is getting through.
wait 5-10mins an away it goes again.
ive tried this a couple of times an both times after it stops i jack the decklid for more airflow an it runs fine again.
has the same problem on cold and hot days and stopped at the same place on the road both times.

been trying to figure it out for ages now.

stock engine
timing is at 7.5
copper line cooler
judson coil

any help/thoughts/info would be good.

(john??...)
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[Fishynos72]

Judson's have a particular issue. perhaps you're suffering from it....

they lean off. the engine suddenly feels like it is running really good. But it will get hotter and hotter until rings melt. I've heard a few examples of this happening. can't remember exactly how to fix the issue.

Obviously if you haven't already install the stronger 'judson' fuel pump spring and maybe take your carby jet size up a little?


just my 2c chances are I'm wrong
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1972 1302
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[jnr356]

checked your tappets lately dion?
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[D-train]

Fishynos, I have the larger spring and jet installed, that's one thing I've been thinking it is too, that or a vapour lock on the tank but the tank seems fine still too.

Jnr, I rechecked tappets/head torque/timing just last week thinkin it might of been a valve.

always running 98 octane in it too, won't use any fuel lower than that
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[60ragtop]

check your fuel tap for debris floating in it. pull it of and just run a regular tap and see if it takes care of it. I also had a bug that had a piece of straw in the main line floating around causing same problems That one was a fun one to figure out.
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Rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
ASA certified in 1987
Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986

[D-train]

I rebuilt the fuel tap an cleaned the tank thoroughly when I built it, but I'll check it again since I'm nearly out of fuel, the lawn mower gets my tank fuel too..

Was staring at the engine and noticed something. Was missing the front nut off the carb to Judson to manifold but the waste was there. New nut didn't tighten up but pulled the stud, so put a bolt in from the underside through.

Maybe too much air intake was making it run hotter?

Have to test it this arvo an see.
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[Fishynos72]

More air would lean it off and cause overheating like I said
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Collector of all things Volkswagen, Hazet and Matra.

1972 1302
1973 type2a
1957 type11
2005 Caddy panel van
2006 Golf R32

[AirCooledClassics]

If you want a qwick check on the vapor lock . Take a big cold drink and some ice in the cup . when the car dies ice the fuel pump .if it.s vapor lock it should start and the problem is located. the big fear here is is the heat being created by the engine(leaning out) or as simple as the fuel line boiling up near the heater box .The other thing heat related is spark ie /cond.or coil. these can fail under heat. how hot is the engine can you still handle the dipstick without pain.
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[D-train]

Fishynos, im hoping that it is because of too lean, when i retightened it fuel an mmo squeezed out of the gap, so this might fix the problem. didnt get to run it 2day on the highway but ill go for one in the morn.

acc, the engine around town runs at 175f an on the highway gets up to 250f this temp is a capillary run gauge from the dipstick hole.
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[henry roberts]

sorted?

[D-train]

Not sure Henry.
Ran this mornin for half hour on highway, only 80kmph cause of roadworks, but 220f with decklid shut n around 200f with it open. So not sure if it will be correct without running at 100kmph.
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[earthquake]

Do you have a good vent on the gas tank? I had this problem on a 76 1200 Honda Civic. It would suck a vacuum on the tank and it would not pull fuel to the pump. next time it does it, unscrew the fuel cap slowly and listen for a sucking sound.

Casey
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[D-train]

to tell the truth, my cap doesnt seal that well.
its a new gasket, but the outer casing spins so i cant put the cap on properly, so doest quite seal correctly anyway.. haha

someone also has mentioned that the seals in the oil cooler could be squished too much causing it to not have good flow. not a bad thought, something ill have to look at.
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[vwhelmot]

I have the same problem as you only after I shut the engine off to fill up with fuel or something like that. It then sometimes refuses to start and only a bump start will get it going again. I have tried everything I know to fix this problem as its more random than yours. All I know its that its definitely fuel related and not electrical. Its a vapour lock I think due to higher engine temps.

[D-train]

[Karly]

hope you find the issue... mine also runs great on hwys as long as I don't turn off and try to restart straight away.

I can have problems starting mine if its been sitting for a long time as lack of fuel and then 6v struggles to get things moving! Driving daily its great though even in these 40 degree days its been ok (not doing hwy speeds though!), I do wedge the engine lid open and have set the oiler to higher than normal in hope it helps to keep things a little cooler.
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[vwhelmot]

Did you fix this problem unlike me?!

[D-train]

It seems to be running fine still and hasn't gotten too hot. I havnt taken it for a long highway run yet. (Over an hour) but seems ok, I've installed the Pertronix points back into it too.
So until I do over an hour run I won't have full confirmation yet, but I will let u know how it goes at 100km plus for a extended time
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[vwhelmot]

I can go for a drive say 25 miles and it runs perfect, no splutters, nothing. If I stop it sometimes and try to restart it , it will crank over and over till the cows come home and it wont even cough or fire whatsoever.
Ive tried squirting easy start down the carb, nothing
Ive opened the top of the carb to make sure there was fuel in the float chamber , which there was.
Ive removed the plugs which were not wet, but are sparking
Ive tried new condenser, points, starter, starter gearbox bushing, installed a yellow top modern gell optima 6v battery
Ive checked for air leaks around the manifold
Ive checked the tank for shit and venting
Valve clearences
Timing
The list goes on.
As you can see, it boils my piss and I cant trust the car . the only way it will start is by bumping it. Once it starts it smokes a little bit but not bad and will continue to run fine. I can then stop the engine with the key and it will restart straight away.

I think its either a faulty coil,(breaking down with the heat ,I run a Judson magneto coil) or a petrol evaporating problem.
Im going to hook up another coil and try that first.
GGGRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!! Ive had this problem for the last 9 years!

[D-train]

That does sound really annoying, an for 9 years too!! Mine will strut again if I stop after a trip, but I have the back jacked too to get more air in, is yours?
When I didn't have it jacked it wouldn't start, so I jack it wait 5 an away it went again.
It seems to be a problem they have doin this
When mine starts to get too hot it makes a faint rattley sound or if it's under a bit of load then heats up.
I've tried to find the problem with that too, but can't find much.
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