Official Mexican / Brazilian Beetles - All years

[plagos_g]

Update:

Managed to run basic settings and also readjust the idle screw. I may still have to run it once more later, adjusting the idle screw again, but now it idles at around 900-1000 rpm, and recognises the TPS in 0 degrees as intended.
I suspect the IAC is at fault, as it was previously connected to the oil filler neck instead of the air filter.

At least, it shouldn't drink the entire gas tank in a few kms!

I don't think the inner hose is broken, as I've seen plenty of bugs with that problem, causing severe issues, and this one doesn't seem to show any of those.

Thank you for your input, GArBa
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1998 Volkswagen Sedan (MexiBeetle, daily drive)
1987 Volkswagen Kombi (crew cab, br)

[pathfinder_88]

Ok folks, still trying to sort out my ‘95’s current no start issue. I determined I had no spark leading me to the hall sensor or the coil. When I ground the centre signal pin for the hall sensor on the distributor (from the tech videos I have watched) I should get spark at the coil and injectors cycling. I’m getting neither so I don’t believe it’s a coil issue. Probing the coil plug, all looks fine. I’ve ordered the hall sensor but I’m not thinking this is not the problem either. Am I into the ECU now? Are there specific grounds I should be checking? Relay/fuse I’m missing?
Thanks!

[plagos_g]

Maybe, just maybe, the ignition is the issue? I saw a bug the other day where there is no spark while the starter is engaged, yet if the key is let go at the right time, the engine starts. Starting is tricky but possible. Otherwise, have you checked both relays at the front? What about the alarm system?
_________________
1998 Volkswagen Sedan (MexiBeetle, daily drive)
1987 Volkswagen Kombi (crew cab, br)

[pathfinder_88]

Here is the latest on my no spark situation:

Grounding the signal pin (centre) on the hall sensor plug DOES cycle the injectors however I get no spark at the coil. Testing the coil plug, I have power and ground and back probing to the ecu control looks fine. I had another coil on hand and tested it also, no spark. I took the ecu out to look for any burnt resistors, all looked fine (I know this isn’t definitive). The ecu relay is new. It would seem this is an issue with the coil being signaled to fire. I’ve removed the hall sensor as the issue by manually probing its signal to the coil. The coil is also not the issue. The coil wiring from the ecu to the coil appears and tests fine.

I’m not sure how the immobilizer works on the ‘95? Does it kill fuel or ignition? It has the cylinder on the drivers fender. I’ve never touched it. The issue started out gradually and has resolved in the car having no spark. I’m just about to take it to a mechanic unless anyone has any ideas?

[hopkin]

I don't if this will help, here are a couple pages from the Digifant Workshop manual, not specifically for the Mexican Beetles.

_________________
1971 Super Beetle (past)
1971 Super Beetle (past)
1974 SunBug (past)
1972 914 (past)
1991 Honda Civic (Original Owner)
1996 'Open Air' Mexican Beetle (current)
2015 Golf (current)
2017 Dune Edition (daughter's car)

[blue72beetle]

I've seen pictures of the bottom of the alternator stand, it has an o-ring on it.

Does anyone know if the 1600i stands have this baffle under it too?

_________________
-Andy-
-1970 Ghia-
-1971 Bus 1776 Microsquirt EFI-

[hopkin]

I have a spare alternator stand for the 1600i (ACD engine). It has a baffle built in, along with the seal that you refer to:

Here's a pic of the baffle:

My parts list shows that the baffle is used.
_________________
1971 Super Beetle (past)
1971 Super Beetle (past)
1974 SunBug (past)
1972 914 (past)
1991 Honda Civic (Original Owner)
1996 'Open Air' Mexican Beetle (current)
2015 Golf (current)
2017 Dune Edition (daughter's car)

[dedtalasch]

Colleagues, do you have experience in removing the steering shaft? I want to protect the lower part from corrosion, but I can't remove it.
I disconnected the bolts under the tank, removed all the equipment in the cabin, but something still interferes... I assume the shaft is moving forward? then the steering wheel adapter and bushing are what I need to remove?

[hopkin]

[pathfinder_88]

Folks,

Waiting on diagnostics on my ecu. I’m wondering, if it’s not easily fixed, if we have a source for used ecu’s?

[hopkin]

[pathfinder_88]

[hopkin]

[mildensteve]

Well it is about time...

I purchased my 1996 City in 2004. The older guy I got it from didn't have any of the papers from Mexico. At the time I wasn't sure what was involved in getting it titled in Texas so didn't bother. But I also didn't drive it except up and down the street. Fast forward to 2021. Guess it is time. Anyone have recent experience, step by step, on how to do this in Texas now that the car is officially over 25 years old? I would like to drive it legally.

[nx6h]

Hello where exactly is fuel filter on a 2003 i have vague idea it is accessed from underneath and is somewhere near the LH heat exchanger

[hopkin]

[nx6h]

Thanks car was driving fine when parked in 2019 . Took it to MOT (safety check) yesterday and after a few miles it started sputtering and then cut out and i had to get a tow home . Won't fire at all just turns over so going to try changing filter . i had fuel stabilizer in tank but petrol is about two years old

[alikatcraig]

ragami wrote:
... WVWZZZ11ZEM01o711 ... Ryan

I had an alpine white 1984 11EM010372 whilst living in the UK that I bought new in Aachen. Agreed that they were better built than Mexican domestic market models. The gearbox is a case in point - quality bearings. My '85 Jubilee is a daily driver with a 2L motor, and the original trans but with a 3.88 R&P and super diff.
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1967 Ghia
1971 Deluxe Microbus
1974 Convertible Bug
1973 Standard Bug
1998 Mexican Bug

[Pegasín]

A few pages before (#140) I talked about the oil condensation like a "cream" or "foam" .

Here's an example

This is the result of driving on winter in a city with wet weather. Only urban driving and short journeys.

Two weeks ago, during my last vacations I try to refill but the pipe was closed full of this cream! The oil fell from the refilling box becouse the hole was fully closed. After driving a pair of hours on the highway part of this cream was evaporated and then it was abel to refill the engine...

I don´t kown how I can solve this problem. Somebody says installing the thermostatic flap. Somebody says that it's a problem of breathing... My 1971 T2 Kombi doesn't have condensation problems.

[GArBa]

Go with semi-synthetic or full-synthetic oil. It is far less hygroscopic.
Also, clean the elbow hose from the expansion chamber to the air filter, or your engine won't be able to suck back oily vapors and it will be keeping moisture in the chamber and increase the amount of emulsion.
_________________
cars:
'97 type 1 1600i
'14 type AA Seat Mii (sadly dead after 270.000 km)
'22 type C1 T-Cross
'23 type AC3 Hyundai I10 (VW no longer makes small cars!)
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moped:
'82 Benelli Magnum 3v