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Rocky Jennings Rear Heater Valve - Beefy!
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LandSailor
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 9:13 am    Post subject: Rocky Jennings Rear Heater Valve - Beefy! Reply with quote

Like most folks with wives who don't like being cold and not enough funds to get the Propex, removing the rear heater was met with much resistance. However, the constant, but slow, drip, drip, drip needs to be fixed.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1407932

I ordered one of these on Thursday. It arrived Saturday via USPS Priority Mail. As mentioned in the ad, you have to enlarge the heater core holes to 1/4". My core looks like it's in good shape, but if it breaks when drilling it, well, at least I can shut it off solidly while I wait for the replacement. Smile

"Beefy" doesn't come close to describing the valve. For a few bucks more than the almost always out of stock original, I think this is the way to go. I don't know what mods are required to the cover to allow for the larger size. If by some strange chance it does actually leak, at least it's repairable, too.

The hurriedly shot phone pic didn't turn out well, so I will take some install pics when I do the job.
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Yondermtn
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd love to see and hear more details of your installation so keep us updated. Smile
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bmxanddie
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This looks great!
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iltis74
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 1:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smart. You're essentially buying the aluminum flange, as everything else, o-ring included, is at your local hardware store. Odds of that ever leaking are slim to none.
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carterzest
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 1:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any and Everything Rocky Jennings does is a tribute to our community Exclamation

You should check out his WBX. He also builds them by hand, one at a time!
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svenakela
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 2:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue handle is a standard color saying that the valve is made for corroding environments, such as salt water and beyond. Should always be used in ocean going yachts and Vanagons. Smile
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LandSailor
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, it's done. Total time, minus a few stupid moves on my part, was about thirty minutes.

Here's the old valve that was leaking from around the screw:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Those Fluid Line Clamps from Harbor Freight are fantastic! I had no leaks and the hoses show no signs of their application. Cheap, too! I have to say, between these, the Hose Removal Pliers (for the blue pressure cap), and the Made in the USA ramps I bought, my last trip to HF was money well spent.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-fluid-line-clamp-set-65116.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/hose-remover-pliers-66638.html

New bolts installed. I did not have to drill out the heater core as mentioned in the ad. With very little "umphf", they screwed right into the plastic. It didn't feel like it was stressing it, at all.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


No photos of me removing the heater core and cleaning it. Very simple job and reassuring to see that it was in good shape. LOTS of hair and dirt caught, though.

Valve installed loosely for test fit.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Comparison shot
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


OEM hose cut just about where the flow restrictor was located. I found it very difficult to cut the hose and thought I had really screwed up. Eventually, it slid onto the barb with a nice fit, though, but I think the original flare would fit around it, too.

It's hand tight to the radiator flange. "Snug" would be a better word. You do not want to crack the thirty year old plastic, so be firm, but gentle.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The restrictor does not fit in the barb opening. That might be a nice addition to the kit since the throat of the valve is definitely bigger than the diameter of the restrictor. Also, don't think that little piece of rubber will fit in the opening of the heater core. It pops right in!

It was tested for leaks. None were found, and the cover fits right over it. The modifications mentioned in the ad are likely so you can operate the valve without removing the cover.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Excellent product. Shipped quickly and on-time. I have a small road trip coming up tomorrow, so it should get a good test at highway speeds.

The only suggestions I would offer to the kit would be an Instruction Sheet and possibly a Delrin or similarly machined flow restrictor to maintain the originally engineered flow rate.
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blaze80
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great! I bought just the aluminum flange and plan to get the brass ball valve and barb fitting from hardware store. Has anyone used just the aluminum flange and built rest of the assembly?> If so, what size ball valve and what size barb fitting? I went to Lowes and HD and neither had them! Don't know how the heck they can't stock these seemingly common sized valve parts- but nothing at either- lots of PVC fittings and valves but no brass...any sizes/ recommendations would be appreciated!
Thanks
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LandSailor
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

blaze80 wrote:
Has anyone used just the aluminum flange and built rest of the assembly?.... seemingly common sized valve parts-


How much does just the flange cost?

There's the rub. What is your research time worth?
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blaze80
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flange is $40...as you can see on RJ's other ad... yeah, guess I should have fronted the other $40 but too late I suppose.
So I take it you don't know the sizes? Thanks for the input though.
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blaze80
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Landsailor- looks like my research time of an hour was worth the $40! Laughing
For anyone looking to go the cheaper route and assembling yourself- you'll need a 3/8" nipple, 3/8" ball valve, a 5/8" hose barb (w/ 3/8" thread), plumbers tape, and I went with 1/4-20 socket cap screws (stainless) and nylon lock nuts to complete the job. As mentioned- my local Lowes and HD didn't have everything but my local family- owned hardware store did.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just cant get enough of this thing,it looks great!
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LandSailor
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just realized that he raised the price $10 since I ordered it in February.
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tristessa
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LandSailor wrote:
I just realized that he raised the price $10 since I ordered it in February.

I work at a neighborhood hardware store. After the lead-free brass regulations went into effect on January 1st, we've seen price increases on valves and fittings, and some of the less-popular styles of valves are NLA or back-ordered until they get enough free capacity to do a run.

I can't say for sure, but that might have something to do with it...
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LandSailor wrote:
Well, it's done. Total time, minus a few stupid moves on my part, was about thirty minutes.

It was tested for leaks. None were found, and the cover fits right over it.

Excellent product. Shipped quickly and on-time. I have a small road trip coming up tomorrow, so it should get a good test at highway speeds.


Great Write-up.

Does the lever of the RJE valve, when in the off position (pointing up) have enough headroom or clearance under the cover?

Can you reach into the slot in the cover and toggle the lever?

How did it hold up on your road trip?
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LandSailor
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="DeadSetMonkey"]
LandSailor wrote:

Great Write-up.

Does the lever of the RJE valve, when in the off position (pointing up) have enough headroom or clearance under the cover?

Can you reach into the slot in the cover and toggle the lever?

How did it hold up on your road trip?


Thank you for the props!

The handle rotates down to shut it off. (Ball valves have the hole in the ball aligned with the handle, so you can always tell if they're open or closed.) You need to modify the cover to be able to access it, but honestly, I never even thought about that being the purpose for that hole since my cover only has one good screw hole under it.

It was perfect on the trip. No runs, drips, or errors.
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Yondermtn
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just got my valve in the mail today. It's definitely beefier than the stock valve and not much more $$. I do wish the nuts and bolts were included so I don't have to make a trip to the store before I install it, but not a big deal.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a different fitting for where the hose slips on,this one is correct,just like the factory end. Really nice!

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MTM0/5615...;ppt=C0108

The valve in his kit is a Mueller R850, I believe it also is sold at Ace.

Also,the correct mounting hardware is as follows:

6x25 stainless socket head cap screw x2(easier to hold with an allen wrench while tightening the nut.)

m6 stainless flat washer x2 (for under the socket screw head to reinforce the heater core flange.)

m6 stainless lock nut x2

As far as the restrictor, you can purchase a 5/8 O.D. x 1/4 I.D. spacer, 3/4 inch in length, in either nylon or steel,mine was a chrome spacer! and it will fit in the hose and replicate the reducer perfectly.

these should all be available at your local Ace,etc.

Hope this helps.

With all this thread has,you should be able to build a very nice valve thanks to RJE and the other posters.
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LandSailor
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bolts and nuts were included with mine, so it was probably an oversight.
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mozcar78
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 8:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just wanted to add to this for people who want to source their own ball valve.
Its a 'homewerks worldwide' product, 3/8" ball valve.

http://www.midlandhardware.com/531233.html#
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