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New Manual Transaxle How Hot?
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Syncro Jael
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 5:14 pm    Post subject: New Manual Transaxle How Hot? Reply with quote

Just installed the AA Transaxle. How hot is a normal operating temperature?
I shot it with a temperature gun and it is running from 170 at the bell housing and 125 at the decoupler. Dead center at the output flanges is 148.

Is this normal wirh outside temps at 54 degrees?
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 5:26 pm    Post subject: trans temp Reply with quote

Blue Bay Bus Here you go! Mine are close to these. 160 hot most of the time less :
Some data from Alaric
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6123272#6123272

this is with a bad tranny cooler pump:
> I noticed the trans temp rising on the highway back from High Point NC. 185deg at 70mph so I had to slow down to 60mph to keep it at 160deg

this is with a properly working tranny cooler pump:
> I ran the van down the highway yesterday at 75mph and a 90 degrees out side and the trans temp never went past 135deg.

Some data from Bill (similar to Alarics temps with no cooler)
> Report: trans temp going and returning from NWMF (2,500mi) 160-175 degrees f.

Dereks input on target tranny temps:
>According to info posted by Derek Drew, 160 degrees F is when parts start to go out of spec.

Conclusion, Bill and Alaric's trannies, without a working tranny cooler, operate at or above 160F.

fwiw, anyone can check tranny temp with an IR gun, no sender installation required.

Bottom line is Alaric has developed a temperature control system that works. And my bet is most uncooled trannies see 160F+. At that temperature, I think motors with torque above 200ft lbs begin to move things around in ways that produce damage.

The reason Alaric sees tranny damage and Bill does not, is not that Alarics tranny runs hotter than Bills, its that Alarics motor has more torque than Bills.

According to Derek's 160F benchmark, both Alaric and Bill are experiencing heat expansion that puts the tranny tolerances out of spec. Once you get that, you need to apply torque in excess of 200ft lbs, to produce damage.

So my rule of thumb is, if you have more than 200ft lbs of torque, a tranny cooler can help.

Just my armchair analysis.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Thank you! Very Happy
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 7:46 pm    Post subject: Re: New Manual Transaxle How Hot? Reply with quote

Syncro Jael wrote:
Just installed the AA Transaxle. How hot is a normal operating temperature?
I shot it with a temperature gun and it is running from 170 at the bell housing and 125 at the decoupler. Dead center at the output flanges is 148.

Is this normal wirh outside temps at 54 degrees?


Since the temperature's you report are highest at the motor end, coolest at the far end of the transmission, I'd venture to say a good deal of the heat in the transmission is from the motor being coupled to the tranny.

Hotter motor, means hotter tranny.

maybe I ought to move my engine oil auxiliary cooler out from above the tranny Question Question Question
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been reading all the posts I can find on manual transmission temperatures and what is acceptable.

My son is on a visit and he has a bone stock 2.1 WBX and non locker transaxle in his 87 Syncro. He is fully loaded with gear.

I have a Subaru EJ22 1994 and a rebuilt AA locker transaxle in mine with about 1400 miles on it now. My Syncro is not loaded down.

We both drove the same distance about 50 miles and the outside temperature was about 60° and we were freeway driving at 65-70.

Once we stopped I got out and checked our tranny temps with an IR gun.
His was at 163° at the drivers side output shaft and mine was at 174°.

I have a new tranny, new gear lube and I followed him at the same speeds. I am wondering why I am running 10° over him?

Any ideas??? Rolling Eyes

I have been checking transmission temps a lot now that I have read some of these threads. My rebuild has included the new aluminum gear housing, new aluminum main housing, AA main shaft retainer plate, and oiling plates. I have also read that unless you have an engine with more than 200fp of torque you shouldn't have any issues with tearing stuff up with temps over 160°. I have also noticed if I shoot the output flange or CV on either side the temp is about 20° hotter than the side of the aluminum case Shocked

I am also running Mobil Delvac 75/90. The same as Daryl Crying or Very sad told me he is running in his Syncro.

I am really after some of the expert opinions on what transaxle temps are acceptable and safe so I can make this tranny last for a long time.

I also have now installed a temperature gauge to monitor my tranny temps.
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Last edited by Syncro Jael on Wed Mar 19, 2014 10:05 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Syncro Jael wrote:
I have been reading all the posts I can find on manual transmission temperatures and what is acceptable.

My son is on a visit and he has a bone stock 2.1 WBX and non locker transaxle in his 87 Syncro.

I have a Subaru EJ22 1994 and a rebuilt AA locker transaxle in mine with about 1400 miles on it now.

We both drove the same distance about 50 miles and the outside temperature was about 60° and we were freeway driving at 65-70.

Once we stopped I got out and checked our tranny temps with an IR gun.
His was at 163° at the drivers side output shaft and mine was at 174°.

I have a new tranny, new gear lube and I followed him at the same speeds. I am wondering why I am running 10° over him?

Any ideas??? Rolling Eyes

I have been checking transmission temps a lot now that I have read some of these threads. My rebuild has included the new aluminum gear housing, new aluminum main housing, AA main shaft retainer plate, and oiling plates. I have also read that unless you have an engine with more than 200fp of torque you shouldn't have any issues with tearing stuff up with temps over 160°. I have also noticed if I shoot the output flange or CV on either side the temp is about 20° hotter than the side of the aluminum case Shocked

I am also running Mobil Delvac 75/90. The same as Daryl Crying or Very sad told me he is running in his Syncro.

I am really after some of the expert opinions on what transaxle temps are acceptable and safe so I can make this tranny last for a long time.

I also have now installed a temperature gauge to monitor my tranny temps.


shot in the dark, but is it possible that the New aluminum main housing is allowing less heat dissipation?
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There has been speculation that engine conversions and adapter plates cause more heat transfer to the transmission, but I don't know. It cold be more related to power output?

I haven't measured with an IR gun in a while but the gauge for my trans takes a LONG time to even get up to the 150* area and I haven't seen it go above that yet. Normally it hangs around 120* or so. I also keep my speeds below 65 mph for the most part. I'm still planning my gear oil pump and filter pretty soon though since I know it's going to get hot outside!
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hans j wrote:
There has been speculation that engine conversions and adapter plates cause more heat transfer to the transmission, but I don't know.


I have noticed the bell housing is always running about 180° so I know the aluminum main housing is getting some heat from the engine.

The decoupler runs around 125° when the tranny is up to 170°.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is case temperature and oil temperature. They can be different. The one wire temp sensors are going to read the hottest temp because they are using the threads as a ground for the circuit. So it could be reading the case temp not the lube temp.

I'd be curious to know the temp of the oil coming out of the case and the only way to do that would be with an inline temp sensor with a pump/cooler design. I have an electric transmission cooler pump on the race car. It is extremely loud. Not sure how it would be in a Vanagon. I have a temp sensor mounted on the discharge of the pump and a temp switch in the case to turn the pump on and off. I have a warning light to let me know when the pump is running.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rsxsr wrote:
There is case temperature and oil temperature.


My temperature gauge is reading "case temperature". I am guessing my case temperature is cooler than the oil inside? But not by much. From what I have read, the case gets hot and expands and applying torque beyond engineered limits bearings or other parts move and begin to wear out faster.

I am just really looking for someone to tell me when my case temperature is at a dangerous or unacceptable limit. So I know when to stop and let it cool down. Is the limit 180° or 200° or Question

I use oil and head temp gauges in my old air-cooled engines that let me know it is time to give them a break or get out of the throttle.

That is what I am after here too.

I have not tracked my Porsche but from what others that do, their tranny temps are well over 200° with no issues, maybe? That is one reason I like running Mobil Delvac. Porsche guys run it and they are cousins to VW's. Laughing
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you by any chance take readings of the front diff temps on both vans when you measured the tranny temps? Do both vans have decouplers and if so were they both in the same mode?

Mark
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I am guessing my case temperature is cooler than the oil inside? But not by much.


I was thinking the opposite actually. That is why I mentioned it. For a cooler to work, the gear oil would need to absorb the heat from the case as well as the hard parts and then dissipate the heat in the cooler. I am thinking a lot of the case heat is, as suggested, coming from the engine and exhaust temp.

I have an AA transaxle on our Vanagon. I am not hitting the power thresholds mentioned above. I know that when we stop for the night after a day of driving, you have to get out of the Van and go for a walk. The radiant heat of everything cooling down is incredible. So far it has held up fine.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On reading this thread I'm just thinking about cutting a bleach bottle in half from the top down and zip-tying it to an easy to reach spot underneath to use it as a scoop to see if it directs enough air to circulate around the gearbox to aid in cooling. More so you need a way for the air to get out too.
It would probably need some ducting as the air would probably just spill over the top end and not go upwards.

The trouble is after driving down some of the hot summer roads I did last summer I don't see it getting much cooler air up around it. It might help though!
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is an update:

I have my transaxle temp gauge installed. I ran it down the freeway to get it up to about 130°, stopped got out my IR gun and shot the same spot on the case. I was off about 5° Shocked

I went back and looked at the gauge again and it had risen 4°. Shot with the IR gun and now they are the same temp Cool.

Ambient Temperature outside was 59°
Mounted gauge read 135°
IR Gun read 135°

From what I am seeing I believe the case is cooling off as the airflow is being directed along the case. I have read on a thread here that it might be as beneficial to use air to help cool the transaxle. I have built a small air scoop on my skid plate to help force air under and into the main transaxle housing.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is a good thing! Now this weekend I am making a rubber flap that should extend down when road speeds are high enough to direct a larger airflow around the transaxle. I got this idea from my Porsche, it has (2)two rubber flaps that extend when the car is up to speed to divert air across the inner CV joints. (YEAH THEY GET HOT). They use rubber in case they come in contact with anything on the road. So if you follow a 2000 or newer Porsche down the freeway, you will see these extended down.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a thread with lots of temperature readings

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=558339
Jon_slider wrote:
Today I tested the Tranny Cooler with its radiator fan off, per gears suggestion, with just the pump running. Max temperature achieved was 140F @ 70mph when outside temp was 65F, a differential of 75F.

I then tested the same no fan, yes pump configuration going over highway 17, and max temp achieved was 140F, @ 55mph uphill, when outside temp was 60F, a difference of 80F

So here are some differential temperature preliminary benchmarks

1. No cooling system, 100F differential @ 70mph flat freeway, 120F differential going over HWY 17@55mph

2. Cooling system radiator fan On, pump on, freeway differential 65F, hwy 17 differential 65F

3. Cooling system radiator fan Off, pump on, freeway differential 75F, hwy 17 differential 80F

I look forward to getting a working thermoswitch installed, so I don't have to keep switching the system off and on by hand. If the pump runs full time, even with the radiator fan off, below 45mph around town, flat ground, operating temperatures drop below 120F.

It also appears to me that below 45mph, no cooling system is needed. The majority of the heat build I see, is above 50mph uphill, and above 65mph flat ground.

The biggest factor in tranny temp is outside temperature. the tranny cooler is predictable at obtaining a temperature differential.

By looking at my tranny temperature, I can come within a few degrees of guessing the outside temperature, and vice versa, once the configuration differential is applied.

Example, no cooler, 70F outside, flat freeway at 70mph, predicted tranny temp will be 170F.

Another example, cooler radiator fan and pump on, outside temp 70F, flat freeway 70mph tranny temp will be 135F. etc.. its all about temperature differential..

The good news is the system as installed in my Syncro, is completely effective at accomplishing the goal of eliminating temperatures above 160F, all the way up to outside temp of 95F @ 70mph. Outstanding!


Syncro Jael wrote:
Dead center at the output flanges is 148.
Is this normal wirh outside temps at 54 degrees?…

a difference of 94 degrees, sounds normal

Syncro Jael wrote:
Ambient Temperature outside was 59°
Mounted gauge read 135°

a difference of 76F. seems unusually low, be sure you drive at least 1 hour so everything is running at full temperature

Syncro Jael wrote:
outside temperature was about 60°
… at the drivers side output shaft and mine was at 174°.

a difference of 114 degrees. SCARY! dont go 70F, go slower

Syncro Jael wrote:
why I am running 10° over him?

my first guess is the hotter van has bigger tires and different gearing.

What rpm does each van run at 70mph? Do they have the same ring and pinion, and same 4th gear?
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine has a thermal switch installed that will turn a circulating pump on at 150*. Gear oil should run at least 250*, but that's in anything that's not a vanagon transmission...

I'm good with running 150* on mine. If yours goes over that, maybe slow down if you are concerned with longevity of the trans.

Originally it's an over weight, underpowered vehicle designed in the late '70's when the national speed limit was 55 mph. It's definitely not a Porsche, and I don't drive mine like it is, I want mine to last...
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hans j wrote:
Mine has a thermal switch installed that will turn a circulating pump on at 150*. Gear oil should run at least 250*, but that's in anything that's not a vanagon transmission...


consider a manual override switch so you can turn on your circulation pump sooner

gears wrote:
I'll throw a caution out there .. Your transaxle oil temperature reading does not tell the whole story. I have yet to see a vanagon temperature reading that would concern me, and yet I know that many of our vanagons are experiencing heat build-up in 4th gear. The effects of this are damaging on 4th gear and the mainshaft ball bearing.

This heat build-up is a serious issue (especially in conversion vans), and is the reason I recommend flipping the manual override switch for the trans oil pump/cooler BEFORE a long uphill climb. DON'T wait for overall oil temperature to activate the system .. at least not on long hills.

I'd also recommend at least a few seconds of running the trans oil pump before even starting the car. The mainshaft ball bearing doesn't see any oil exchange until the pinion shaft begins turning, when 4th gear can deliver a bit of oil to that forward area. Until then, the ball bearing is relying on any residual oil pooled in the cupped bearing race .. not much.
JMHO


gears wrote:
I received some feedback today from Swepco on their 201 & 210 gear lubes. I've had some concern over what sounded to me like very low oil temperatures in our transaxles .. 130-160*F .. when what I'm used to seeing with other marques is more like 180-215*F on street, and WAY higher in racing .. more like 300-350*F.

First off, the Swepco literature infers that 210-257*F would be a typical operating temperature, with 325* sustained temperature possible. Wow .. pretty high for a dino oil.

But I specifically wanted to know if a certain operating temperature needed to be reached before certain EP additives became active.
I wanted to understand Swepco's claim that:
"SWEPCO’s own LUBIUM® automatically plates critical wear areas with a second safety film of solid lubrication in high temperature-extreme pressure conditions."

Anyhow, their chemist came back to explain that unlike some other oils in which it's true that a specific temp is required for EP protection to kick in, Swepco's EP additives operate at lower temps just as effectively as high temps. And as far as they're concerned, the lower the oil temp the better.

So that leaves us to just be careful where we aim our cooled, high viscosity oil (not directly at mesh points of gear pairs) .. and COOL away !

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jon_slider

Thanks for looking that up for me.

I did get a chance to speak with Matt at AA Transaxle. I asked him the same question "At what transaxle temp do I need to be concerned and back out of it?"

His response was if it is an older magnesium tranny 180° would be a concerning limit with anything other than the WBX in it that is the point where the pinion bearing will just drop in, so that is the point it can just move again.

With the Aluminum Main and Aluminum Gear housings 200° would be a point to take the load off. But he also said Daryl was really looking into the gear oils a lot before he left us. Crying or Very sad to evaluate acceptable working temperatures.

So I am running what Daryl had in his Syncro "Mobil Delvac".

I am going to stay in communication with Matt, he took his Syncro out with the Suby 2.5 and was going to put loads on it and check the tranny temps also and get back with me. Right now I am only 25 degrees from his limit and it is still only in the 60° range. What happens this summer at 100° +? Shocked

Thanks again to you all! This is a great place to be.... Cool
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Syncro Jael wrote:
180° would be a concerning limit with anything other than the WBX in it that is the point where the pinion bearing will just drop in, so that is the point it can just move again.

)



Please be advised that he is talking about dropping a bearing that is ROOM TEMPERATURE into a housing that is 180 degrees. If the bearing was also 180 degrees it would not drop in.

I don't know why Matt made mention of that because it has nothing to do with your question. How do you think bearings are made? They heat the hell out of the outer ring and cool the center and then drop in the balls. When temperatures settle, they fit.

I think your temps are normal and perfect. I would expect the tranny to run 10 to 20 degrees farneheit within engine temp based on thermal conductance. Anything else would seem unusual. I do believe it may be possible to increase tranny longevity by cooling it, but I have to believe efficiency is sacrificed in the process, and in a syncro, I think that would be significant.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Were you and your son running different wheel/tire packages, as in different diameters, contact patch, weights?
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