Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts  See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
Front Window Frame HELL Restoration
Page: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
Forum Index -> Split Bus Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Scandell
Samba Member


Joined: April 02, 2007
Posts: 251
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Scandell is offline 

PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 9:53 pm    Post subject: Front Window Frame HELL Restoration Reply with quote

Did you restore your front window frames? WHAT A PROCESS! YIKES! I am going to have them sanded and repainted... but I have a few questions:

I have read and reread all available info of the forum about this subject...

1. How do I remove the riveted latches in pics 4 and 5?

2. How many pieces does the window frame disassemble to? (It kinda looks like another piece is supposed to come out of the vent location of the frame.)

3 How in the world do you slide the surrounding vent window rubber in?

4. I noticed that their are two movebale screw points on each side of the window frame(Picture 2)...won't new paint fuse them stuck??

5. Am I supposed to slide rubber up that shaft in picture 3?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
"Come on over...and we can work on it together."


Last edited by Scandell on Wed Sep 19, 2007 11:04 am; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
the.fordhams
Samba Member


Joined: February 11, 2004
Posts: 443
Location: Charlotte, NC
the.fordhams is offline 

PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 3:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just done mine so I can give my view on some of the processes;

1. did not do mine,

2. looks like you have all the pieces apart and accounted for - except maybe the vertical bar between the sliding windows or is that laying on the horizontal part? anyway make sure the tabs are on top and bottom of this vertical piece

3. start at the bottom near the pivot and carefully tuck each edge in with a blunt flat blade screwdriver. I started with one side and then used the screwdriver to tuck in the other. No sliding.

4. they will but they'll free off again. Use a tap and I'm sure the process of cleanign the threads will free off the trapped nut plate.

5. Again just tucks in with a screwdriver - I was confused which way round this goes but I'm sure its with the blades towards the glass if that makes sense.

The hardest thing for me was sliding that damn long piece around the outside of the frame - I used plenty of silicone spray and then carefully pushed and pulled around the tight bend with a pair of pliers.

Good luck,

Al
_________________
63 Ragtop Bug restoration in progress
65 11w Mountain Bus with serious rust issues
65 SO42 B42 Bench and mountain camping fun
67 SO42 A42 Walk thru - number matching project
03 Weekender
08 Treg

WANTED :
Roy Payne Decatur Alabama VW dealer tag surround,
Alabama VW literature for 63 bug
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Major Woody
Samba Enigma


Joined: December 04, 2002
Posts: 8930
Location: Portland, OR
Major Woody is offline 

PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I disassembled ours for blasting and here is my experience.

I left the vent wing latch base in place as it was not broken. Also left the lock tab in place and just duct taped it off for blasting. If they need to be removed, you need to grind the head off the rivet.

The paint won't freeze anything into place so badly that it can't be moved again.

That little wind deflector piece is supposed to be gray when you are all done with painting and reassembling.

Use Windex to assist with getting the seals to slide in the channels.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Scandell
Samba Member


Joined: April 02, 2007
Posts: 251
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Scandell is offline 

PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Major Woody wrote:

That little wind deflector piece is supposed to be gray when you are all done with painting and reassembling


Wind Deflector piece?
_________________
"Come on over...and we can work on it together."
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
the.fordhams
Samba Member


Joined: February 11, 2004
Posts: 443
Location: Charlotte, NC
the.fordhams is offline 

PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The little curved piece that goes in the bottom corner of the vent window. I too did not remove my latch or latch plate and had mine blasted and painted. Just mask off with some good stuff.

Did the wind deflector come in chrome for deluxes or was it grey or body color?

Al
_________________
63 Ragtop Bug restoration in progress
65 11w Mountain Bus with serious rust issues
65 SO42 B42 Bench and mountain camping fun
67 SO42 A42 Walk thru - number matching project
03 Weekender
08 Treg

WANTED :
Roy Payne Decatur Alabama VW dealer tag surround,
Alabama VW literature for 63 bug
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Major Woody
Samba Enigma


Joined: December 04, 2002
Posts: 8930
Location: Portland, OR
Major Woody is offline 

PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know and I should have been clearer that it would be gray for a commercial family vehicle. I saw that the vent pivot latch base was black and that it was a late deflector and just reacted with "that one should be gray"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Scandell
Samba Member


Joined: April 02, 2007
Posts: 251
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Scandell is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:32 am    Post subject: An Update Reply with quote

1 Down...1 to go.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
"Come on over...and we can work on it together."
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Kevin T
Samba Member


Joined: February 06, 2006
Posts: 123
Location: Sandwich Islands
Kevin T is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lookin good! what did you use for paint?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
BarryL Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: November 01, 2004
Posts: 12020
Location: Casa de Oro, California
BarryL is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some deflectors are bare aluminum. Don't know when that occurred.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
lurkinstock
Samba Member


Joined: September 04, 2006
Posts: 415
Location: n. ga.
lurkinstock is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 10:11 am    Post subject: Re: An Update Reply with quote

Scandell wrote:
1 Down...1 to go.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Scandell, those look awesome! Can you describe the process you used? Did you have to trim in any spots? You make me want to do mine real soon!!
_________________
" Southern Comfort Vintage Volks "
**The Grand Ole Dubs of the South**
52 split
59 single cab
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Major Woody
Samba Enigma


Joined: December 04, 2002
Posts: 8930
Location: Portland, OR
Major Woody is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks good.
When you clamp them back into the door, you will need to notch the bead side of the base seal where the angle changes near the center post, on the inside. Glue the butt ends of the "bead" together with 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive (the HD black stuff not the gorilla snot) and then use tape to hold them onto the door while you're installing the door frame into the door or they'll be pulled apart. Use K-Y Jelly to help the frame slip in. Pull the tape out at the last minute.

Once you get it into the door, you'll need to clamp the door frame to the door in order to suck it down tight onto the base seal. I used several gigantic bar clamps and started with the back edge of the door. When you get to the front, you won't be able to use the bar clamp becuase of the angle of the door frame. At that point you could use a vice grip quick grip bar clamp between the vent window opening (move the seal out of the way temporarily to avoid damaging it) to hold it in place tightly while you install and secure the 4 bolts that hold the front portion of the frame into the door.
Don't tighten the two nuts under the sliding door run channel until last. If you try to use them to pull the frame down, you run the risk of tweaking the run channel.
Before you install the door frame, run a tap through all your threads to get the paint and rust out, and use anti-seize.
There is another thread here with instructions on properly mashing the vent window rivet (use a steel ball bearing and a pair of vice-grips with the jaws ground flat/smooth). Following those instructions, I was able to get my vent window rivet installed perfectly.
Wait to finally tighten the vent window pivot nut until after you have installed the vent window rivet. Leave it loose.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Riff Raff
Shivering Sambian


Joined: October 25, 2004
Posts: 2899
Location: Alberta
Riff Raff is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the.fordhams wrote:

Did the wind deflector come in chrome for deluxes or was it grey or body color?
Al

The wind deflectors (I call them Nike swooshes) are painted upper body colour on my 60 Mango Standard and 61 SWR/BG de Luxe.
_________________
The greatest obstacle to discovery is not ignorance, but the illusion of knowledge
- Daniel Boorstin
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Scandell
Samba Member


Joined: April 02, 2007
Posts: 251
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Scandell is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Major Woody wrote:
That looks good.
When you clamp them back into the door, you will need to notch the bead side of the base seal where the angle changes near the center post, on the inside. Glue the butt ends of the "bead" together with 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive


What do you mean "notch the bead side"?

Also...what are the two flappy parts on each end of the base seal for?
_________________
"Come on over...and we can work on it together."
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Scandell
Samba Member


Joined: April 02, 2007
Posts: 251
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Scandell is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Process: (I'll go into more detail later")

1. Dismantle ONE of your frames. (Use the other as a constructed reference)
2. SandBlast all 5 main parts (Removed latch and latch plate with drill)
3. Lightly Sand then Spray some self-etching primer on the bare metal.
4. Bought some white-blue paintscratch.com spray cans... ($90 bucks & a 3 week fiasco)
5. Spray Painted all parts
6. Sprayed a light clearcoat on top...just because the SS paint I bought wasn't quite shiny enough. ($5 Clear coat from Pep Boys)
7. Riveted a WW new latch and latch plate. (Non-Stock Stainless Steal Pop Rivets. yikes. lol (Rivet Gun and Rivets $25))
8. Installed WW rubber and felt kit. ($90 per frame )(Very Easy to do...took 30 minutes)
9. Placed Windows back in...screw long latch plate and bottom main part in place.
STILL TO DO:
10. Install Vent Glass and Seal.
11. Install Vent Wing Window...
12. Install Onto Bus.

THEN DO IT AGAIN!
_________________
"Come on over...and we can work on it together."
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
jazzed
Samba Member


Joined: August 03, 2002
Posts: 616
Location: Eugene, OR
jazzed is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'll have fun with 10 and 11, trust me Crying or Very sad
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Major Woody
Samba Enigma


Joined: December 04, 2002
Posts: 8930
Location: Portland, OR
Major Woody is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scandell wrote:
Major Woody wrote:
That looks good.
When you clamp them back into the door, you will need to notch the bead side of the base seal where the angle changes near the center post, on the inside. Glue the butt ends of the "bead" together with 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive


What do you mean "notch the bead side"?

Also...what are the two flappy parts on each end of the base seal for?


The inside (side facing the interior of the bus) of the base seal is raised and rounded, like a rounded bead. It will bunch up on the inside where the angle of the door changes. You have to cut some out, right where you already cut a hole for the center post of the frame to go down inside the door.

I don't know what flappy parts you're referring to. Mine was just one continuous extrusion--WCM material I got from CIP1.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
zozo
Samba Member


Joined: October 15, 2005
Posts: 5164
Location: South of Ol' San Antonio
zozo is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jazzed wrote:
You'll have fun with 10 and 11, trust me Crying or Very sad


Amen to that! A PITA of biblical proportions.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Major Woody
Samba Enigma


Joined: December 04, 2002
Posts: 8930
Location: Portland, OR
Major Woody is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

zozohead wrote:
jazzed wrote:
You'll have fun with 10 and 11, trust me Crying or Very sad


Amen to that! A PITA of biblical proportions.


Anything can be accomplished with enough lube. Cool
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Scandell
Samba Member


Joined: April 02, 2007
Posts: 251
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Scandell is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 12:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Major Woody wrote:

The inside (side facing the interior of the bus) of the base seal is raised and rounded, like a rounded bead. It will bunch up on the inside where the angle of the door changes. You have to cut some out, right where you already cut a hole for the center post of the frame to go down inside the door.

I don't know what flappy parts you're referring to. Mine was just one continuous extrusion--WCM material I got from CIP1.


I got my rubber from WW...and the base trim doesn't need any holes to be cut out. The center hole is already cut. FYI
_________________
"Come on over...and we can work on it together."
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
StockNazi
Samba Member


Joined: June 18, 2004
Posts: 4895

StockNazi is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BarryL wrote:
Some deflectors are bare aluminum. Don't know when that occurred.
i think that was a 67 thing. my 67 deluxe has the alumimum deflectors, it's an early 67
_________________
WANTED:
Westfalia privy tent poles(silver painted / pre-59)

58 Westfalia roof rack and cabinet knobs
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Split Bus All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
Page 1 of 5

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2020, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB