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Gland Nut Threads Destroyed on Crank
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Mr. Fickits
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 2:19 pm    Post subject: Gland Nut Threads Destroyed on Crank Reply with quote

While setting endplay I managed to do this.
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Only took about 70 lbs of torque. Anyone successfully repair these threads? If so will you share? I have a new crank on order to get me by, but i'd like to fix this eventually. This is a 4340 74mm crank from a well-known/respected manufacturer. I'm hesitant to chase the threads with a tap because I don't trust that there is enough material to hold finish torque of the gland nut.
My understanding from welding on 4340 is that it needs to be pre-heated to ~500F, welded with 308 sst rod, then cooled over 24 hours. Not sure this good for the rest of the crank.
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esde
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timesert, haha
Were you using some sort of torque multiplier? If not that is unexpected. Can you reach out to the manufacturer? Maybe DPR, or someone else with tons of experience welding cranks could fix it..
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chrisflstf
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whats the deal with slots in the dowel pins?
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Mr. Fickits
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No torque multiplier, just a 3/4 drive ratchet with very little force. I've talked with DPR and the manufacturer and determined the cost of crank vs. cost to fix it = not worth it so I've ordered another. DPR was very helpful on the phone. I prefer to use less expensive parts that have not been balanced and micropolished to make lampshades.
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miniman82
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HTF did you manage that with only 70 lbs of torque?
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Mr. Fickits
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
HTF did you manage that with only 70 lbs of torque?

Great question. I have been wondering the same thing. The one thing I did not check, that I will now, is the slop between the gland nut and the crank threads. Could be tips of the threads touching instead of entire thread.... All speculation at this point.
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Glenn73
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have done this too. What gland nut were you using?
I had a EMPI Chromoly gall up on me.
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VWporscheGT3
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chrisflstf wrote:
Whats the deal with slots in the dowel pins?


they act as teeth and bite into the hole they are in... if you try to get them out they are a mother flogger....
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getgeoff
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only use a quality gland nut like the Scat chromoly. The cheap Chinese ones are longer.
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modok
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

slot in dowel allows the use of oil/locktite without hydrolock.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn73 wrote:
I have done this too. What gland nut were you using?
I had a EMPI Chromoly gall up on me.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
thaat had an impact on it.
always deburr,clean,reclean,check again.inside&outside threads.I dont use the nut to pull the flywheel from the start either.and when pulling it up when it's already ben put on as far as you can get it I use some mollygreezzee on the threadsI never tighten dry at all& deburr the nut flats so they do not eat into the washer&alter the torque.I do not use locktight. at 450+feetpounds/ass pounds whatever it dosent need it. are you sure that is a 4340??? might be a 4110 witch isant as hard as the 4340 and most are not nitrided to farther harden the serfaces. 4110 will scratch easely a 4340 will not.and thus the 4340 will last longer/wear less.especialy with not so clean oil. I also like the scat&cb gland nuts for my builds.Im not sure if Ive ever used anything else,mostly cb.
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modok
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If that was welded, even by a skilled welder, the main would shrink and have to be ground undersize and dowel pins would we way out of alignment.


Good thing they are so cheap; just buy another.
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Glenn73
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark Tucker, It had an impact on it to remove it. It didn't budge.
I almost had to buy Justin at Blackline Racing a new Torque multiplier as we nearly broke it.
I only had maybe 80-90 ft lbs on it.
I learned the hard way that EMPI glandnuts are junk.

But I do agree with you that this is not something to overlook.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn73 wrote:
Mark Tucker, It had an impact on it to remove it. It didn't budge.
I almost had to buy Justin at Blackline Racing a new Torque multiplier as we nearly broke it.
I only had maybe 80-90 ft lbs on it.
I learned the hard way that EMPI glandnuts are junk.

But I do agree with you that this is not something to overlook.


Was that 80-90ft-lbs on the torque multiplier?....

Dale
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Mr. Fickits
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I have done this too. What gland nut were you using?
I had a EMPI Chromoly gall up on me.


The gland nut is a Scat 4340 nut. The threads on the nut look just like the threads on the crank.
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Mr. Fickits
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

If that was welded, even by a skilled welder, the main would shrink and have to be ground undersize and dowel pins would we way out of alignment.


Good thing they are so cheap; just buy another.


That is the same conclusion I have come to. Painful lesson.
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seishuku
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

4340 galls hard against 4340, if the threads were on the tight side it WILL gall and it doesn't take much force.

I run into this a lot fitting pinion gears onto gear box shafts at work (industrial stuff, not small automotive type).
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Glenn73
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was only at 80-90 lbs while installing with no torque multiplier..
I screwed up and needed assistance on removing it.
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56vwoval
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 6:27 am    Post subject: gland nut Reply with quote

Were these destroyed gland nuts lubed prior to installation?
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esde
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was the gland nut new or used and had you verified that it threaded into the crank prior to torquing it? Do the threads on the gland nut and in the crank appear equally stripped?
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