Distributor #1 and #2, the final solution

[Tom Powell]

Distributor #1 and #2

I have a '69 camper with a stock engine and a Solex H30/31 PICT carburetor. I use a 205T distributor and have another 205T as a spare. I find it easier to install and set points and replace the condenser on the bench rather than bent over the bumper. I carry the spare distributor with new points and condenser in the vehicle along with tools and other parts. I live in Hawaii and keep the camper in SoCal for winter ski trips and visiting friends.

Last year I replaced the points and condenser in #1 distributor and put about 3000 miles on the vehicle without a problem. This year I took the vehicle out of storage and after a bit of cranking it started, but soon died and would not restart. I suspected bad gas, but it would not start with the pump drawing new fuel from a gas can. The next day it would start, die and not restart. The day after, it would start, die and not restart. I swapped in distributor #2 and it ran with the fuel from the tank. The points in #1 distributor were a tiny bit pitted and I suspected a bad condenser and replaced it with a new condenser.

I just returned from 2000 mile trip using #2 without a problem. I swapped in #1 with its new condenser. The engine started, but soon died and would not restart. The next day the start, die, no start pattern repeated I put #2 back in and it runs fine. WTF

It seems illogical that a condenser would go bad while in storage and sometimes condensers are bad out of the box. But to start, die and not restart and repeat this pattern the next day is bizarre.

I've checked the internet on methods to check condensers and have not been able to identify faults with any of the old condensers. I've been driving with #2 for awhile and today I replaced the condenser in #1 with a bench checked condenser. I swapped #1 back in and the start, die, no start pattern repeated.

After throwing condensers at #1 distributor I decided to replace the points and the engine started and ran without problems. WTF I bench checked the points, open and closed, with an ohmeter and could not identify any problems.

It is raining in SoCal and I have not yet done any extensive test drives with #1 with the new points and bench checked condenser, but I do not anticipate any problems.

How can points go bad while in storage?
Is it an intermittent short at the pivot or elsewhere?
Is it a connection that opens after the initial start?
Are they sticking open after the initial start?
What are the best/proper bench tests for checking condensers and points?

Aloha
tp

[Desertbusman]

Many decades ago I had a set of points that caused problems and just plain couldn't figure out what the deal was. Finally I found that the little contact button had no conductivity with the points arm it was attached to.

So are you also saying that cold points are working but when they heat up they arn't?
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71 Westy

[Tom Powell]

[Desertbusman]

An extremely marginal continuity between the button and the arm (or the button and the points base) might build a tad of heat in only 3 seconds.

It will be rough finding the cause after you do the sledge trick to it.
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71 Westy

[SGKent]

It well might be what Mike describes or maybe a broken strap on the breaker plate. It could be a sticky advance also. Are you swapping rotor and cap as well or just the distributor itself?
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[Danwvw]

Yeah, that starting then dying sounds like an intermittent loss of connection or even a shorted wire inside the distributor. those new point crimp-on look pretty cheap too. Could be there. Take it out and your should be able to find the problem with your ohm meter. Could be internally shorted condenser too. I have not been able to find a good source for good condensers so I just keep running the ones from the 70's I have. Even have some old points that don't seem to ever ware out.
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[Tom Powell]

[busdaddy]

Could just be oxidation on the contacts as well, a bit of clean brown paper bag works really well for cleaning them.
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[telford dorr]

I've seen points with insufficient lube on the post supporting the movable contact do this. The movable contact drags, and can't close fast enough once the engine spins up. A very thin coat of Super Lube fixes it.
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[Tom Powell]

[Wildthings]

For a 10 spot you can put new points in it and the condenser is a 5 minute swap. The rotor and cap can of course be swapped between your good dizzy and bad one in seconds.

Someone posted about a new Bosch condenser failing not too long ago. I have given up on Bosch and put them at the bottom of my list of preferred parts.

[Tom Powell]

[Tom Powell]

These are the points that were originally in distributor #1 and had about 3000 miles. The engine ran well and the vehicle was placed in storage. Coming out of storage the engine would start, die and not restart. I suspected a bad condenser and replaced it. That did no solve the start, die, no restart scenario. I installed new points in distributor #1 and the engine runs well. I have not done any extensive road tests yet, but do not anticipate any problems. I have seen worse pitting on points from engines that ran well.

I did ohmeter bench tests, but could not identify any problems statically or when the points were repeatedly opened and closed by hand.

Aloha
tp

[Desertbusman]

Wonder what that testing would have shown when they were not on the bench but still installed and right after they had gone thru the start-die-won't restart routine.
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71 Westy

[Tcash]

Hi
I wonder if you hooked up a light bulb in series and used the points as a switch, then did a voltage drop test across the points, what you would get? Sometimes with voltage applied the continuity of the component changes.
Just a thought

[Wildthings]

You can't always tell from just looking at a set of points how well they will conduct electricity. To me it looks like you have an abnormal amount of pitting for only 3000 miles, so you may have a questionable condenser or something else that isn't quite right. I would dress that set of points and toss them in the glove box as a spare.

[Tom Powell]

I have reached a final solution for that set of points.

A test in a turning engine might have yielded more information. but to turn the engine with the starter with my hands and fingers inside with the ohmeter, wires, pulleys and belts was more trouble and risk than I wanted to manage. Both distributors #1 and #2 have new points and condensers and are functional. The rapid pitting was probably due to a bad/weak condenser and it was placed in the NG? bag.

I gave the points a good whack with the sledgehammer and they went flying. I picked them up and gave them another whack. They went flying again and are now hiding someplace. I'd like to post a photo of the demolished points, but I'm tired of crawling around the garage looking for them. I'm not sure who had the last laugh.

Aloha
tp