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Fuel Injection to Carb conversion
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vwsteve
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 9:43 am    Post subject: Fuel Injection to Carb conversion Reply with quote

I would like to convert from FI to a single carb on a 75 1800. I would prefer to use a stock type 1 carb. Has anyone tried this? What did you do for a manifold? I know I will loose power, but I am not concerned about that.
Please don't start a debate about FI being better. I also don't want to go to dual carbs. I have a progressive weber for a type 1 that I think I can buy a manifold for to make work, but I would prefer a stock solex if possible.
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stuming
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No takers?!!
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donemoto
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If using a type 1 Solex for a 75; keep your runners from the fuel Injection and build a manifold box similiar to the one you've taken off. You will need to braze a intake manifold boss to connect the Solex carb. Then rejet,....rejet.

The easisest way would be to put Dual carbs from a 7-74 on it .
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Bugpack-IDF-DRLA-Centermount-Manifold-1-3-4-p/1018.htm

Of course the real challenge is to provide for the heat needed to keep the air:fuel mixture in suspension as it travels the long way from the center mounted carb to the head. Somehow you have to provide for some pretty good heat along that intake.....
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borninabus
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if my goal was the same as yours, OP i would look into the single carb set up used on euro market Vanagons.
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vwsteve
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Bugpack-IDF-DRLA-Centermount-Manifold-1-3-4-p/1018.htm

Of course the real challenge is to provide for the heat needed to keep the air:fuel mixture in suspension as it travels the long way from the center mounted carb to the head. Somehow you have to provide for some pretty good heat along that intake.....


How is it any different from the kit that includes a weber progressive and manifold?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could search up a manifold for a single carb T127 and use that with an adapter. You would have to fab a port into your muffler as a hot air source for the manifold heat, not really a big deal to do.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


You could also build the carb manifold starting with FI manifolds as I did for my progressive. There is heat under the manifold, plus the center section is double walled so it is totally surrounded by hot exhaust gases. In my opinion the heat around the center section is more important than the heat under the runner. A carb can be very dependable, but setting it up right is a lot of work compared with maintaining the stock FI.

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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwsteve wrote:
Randy in Maine wrote:
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Bugpack-IDF-DRLA-Centermount-Manifold-1-3-4-p/1018.htm

Of course the real challenge is to provide for the heat needed to keep the air:fuel mixture in suspension as it travels the long way from the center mounted carb to the head. Somehow you have to provide for some pretty good heat along that intake.....


How is it any different from the kit that includes a weber progressive and manifold?


Gee I don't know. That set up is for a Type 1. You could likely fab up something that would sort of work if you could duct through some exhaust heat sort of like how Wildthings suggests.

Personally I would just use dual carbs as it would be easier and better since they do not require the heat, but you are the one that want to use a single centermounted carb.
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vwsteve
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh ok, I thought they sold it for a late bus engine also.
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vwsteve
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh ok, I thought they sold it for a late bus engine also.
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madmike
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Long runners to the heads= fuel falls out suspension as in less atomazation(spelling)= one fucked up running bus
Get duals Wink
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donemoto
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
You could search up a manifold for a single carb T127 and use that with an adapter. You would have to fab a port into your muffler as a hot air source for the manifold heat, not really a big deal to do.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


You could also build the carb manifold starting with FI manifolds as I did for my progressive. There is heat under the manifold, plus the center section is double walled so it is totally surrounded by hot exhaust gases. In my opinion the heat around the center section is more important than the heat under the runner. A carb can be very dependable, but setting it up right is a lot of work compared with maintaining the stock FI.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Yep, those look like all the butcher jobs I've seen in the 80's. Cool Look nasty; but, run great for a year or two.
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1980 Honda Cub 70
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babysnakes
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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This looks like a genuine PITA. What's the point? To say "I did it."? I'm cheap but....
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

donemoto wrote:
Wildthings wrote:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Yep, those look like all the butcher jobs I've seen in the 80's. Cool Look nasty; but, run great for a year or two.


This was my second iteration, the first was done around 1988-89 and only heated the bottom tube while this one that heats the bottom tube and the plenum area dates from 1990-91. Been pretty danged dependable. I have wanted to build a stainless steel center section as I have always been concerned that the condensate in the exhaust would cause rust through into the intake, but so far this hasn't happened.

It only took a few hours one evening to build so it really wasn't much of an investment in time especially considering how long is has lasted.

FWIW the whole long cold runner and fuel drop out thing is mostly ignorant BS. Any fuel mixture that leaves the carb also enters the cylinders at pretty much the exact same AFR. With some manifold designs fuel might pool in the center seciton but it will never pool in the runners no matter how long and cold they might be.
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tristessa
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

babysnakes wrote:
img]https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/620046.jpg[/img]

This looks like a genuine PITA. What's the point? To say "I did it."? I'm cheap but....

That's a stationary industrial engine, designed & intended (BY VW!) to run for hours at a consistent RPM. No point dicking with dual carbs or fuel injection for that usage, a single carb works just fine.

Every piece of it has a VW part number somewhere...
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madmike
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 4:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What a hack job Laughing go ahead and run a POS progressive,and let us know how that works Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes
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grtfldan
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ill take the old useless FI stuff if its just getting in the way. Laughing
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 8:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it were me I think I would likely buy this little set up...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=999759

Or this one depending on how the cash flow is....

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1592953

Once you get the carbs installed with no vacuum leaks and a good linkage set up, there really is little need to dink with them on a regularr basis as they will stay pretty much in "tune". A suitable distributor will help keep the engine in pretty good tune also. Be sure to measure your fuel pressure as it enters the carb(s). Most carbs like about 2 -4 spi.

I would avoid those center mounted progressive carbs as they are a nightmare to tune and even when they run well they are still just a bad set up. The only one I ever saw that worked pretty well required weekly "dinking" and the owner was a pretty good tuner by the end. He eventually went to dual italian weber 40 IDFs and said he should have done it a long time befroe he did, but that cost him about $600 a long time ago.

Just my 2 cents.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

madmike wrote:
What a hack job Laughing go ahead and run a POS progressive,and let us know how that works Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes


250K miles and counting at this point and it still runs just fine. Cool
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madmike
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 3:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'r Lucky Laughing I think you got the one out of ten that works Laughing
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76 Drag/Street bug 2180cc 'Turbo' 11:85 @113 mph"If I go any faster I'll burn up the Hamster" ,gets 28 mpg. also 10/09/22 11.90 @115 mph
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