I can't take it anymore

crvc · Samba Member Joined: April 28, 2004 Posts: 1308

http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u636/kevinoneall/IMG_0767_zpsb470c07e.jpg

Ten years ago my mechanic father gave me two longblocks. Flipping a coin I rebuilt one and have been using it for a few years. But nothing I've tried has stopped the leak. I add half a quart every couple months.

Can someone tell me about the other block from these numbers. I remember one type in particular is not worth rebuilding but I don't know which:

AE 687312

TIA,

kevin

6T5 square · Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 12:57 pm Post subject:

wheres the leak coming from? tracking it down will get more suggestions as to what needs repair.

seems kinda overkill to rebuild a whole motor just cause of an oil leak
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crvc · Samba Member Joined: April 28, 2004 Posts: 1308

Mitey62 · Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 4:52 pm Post subject:

If this car is driven regularly, honestly I wouldn't worry too much about 1/2 quart over a few months. IF however, it sits most of the time and is rarely driven... that's another story.

gt1953 · Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 5:41 pm Post subject:

Mine leaked and it ended up being the flywheel where the seal rides on it.
You also may have a crack in the case. besides they all leak
_________________
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Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

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janerick3 · Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 6:57 pm Post subject:

The steel cap at the end of the camshaft needs to be sealed to both case halves.

If the studs holding the sump plate in place are partially backed out, the case will leak from there more than usual. Also, make sure the sump plate isn't excessively distorted around the bolt holes. File it flat from the inside. Use the copper washers supplied with the oil change kits under the sump plate nuts, especially if they are cap nuts.

The "AE" case is from a 1971-73 1600 dual-port engine. They have the dual oil reliefs. This is a good core if the case can be serviced.
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Thanks,
Jan K.

drs1023 · Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 7:06 am Post subject:

Good advice above. Seal the cam plug with a good copper sealer, buy a new sump plate - getting a 40 year old one flat with a file is a bitch. I made my last couple with 1/4" plate ground flat on a surface grinder then welded a nut on the middle hole (outside - not inside) so I could use a standard magnetic drain plug, and I make my own gaskets for the sump plate from a good grade of gasket paper.

And . . . a pint of oil a month isn't crazy, but it does make a mess on the driveway.

shortride · Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 9:29 am Post subject:

I've been curious as to why my freshly rebuilt engine has not leaked at all in the last 900 miles. Isn't that a little unusual? Maybe it's just a matter of when.
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drs1023 · Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 10:37 am Post subject:

ALL engines don't leak, but most engine blocks are approaching (or have past) 50 years old. Decades of heating, cooling, and teardowns take its toll on soft metal. My air cooled Wisconsin V-4 (New Holland skid steer), is over 40 years old and doesn't leak, but it's cast iron, a 90 degree "V" engine which doesn't appear to have ever been apart.

crvc · Samba Member Joined: April 28, 2004 Posts: 1308

Thanks for the help. I'm using a rebuilt engine with new pistons, cylinders, rebuilt heads and a lightened 8-dowel flywheel. Will the 8-dowel flywheel fit on this 4-dowel crankshaft?

crvc

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drs1023 · Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 4:07 pm Post subject:

Yes, it will fit just fine.

crvc · Samba Member Joined: April 28, 2004 Posts: 1308

VOLKSWAGNUT · Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 8:23 am Post subject:

Beware... some of those light flywheels seem to either be undersized in the seal area or eat the crank seal lip in short time..
I just went through this on a fresh engine with 4k miles on it...... swapped out to a stock flywheel and new seal.. problem eliminated...
Just food for thought...

In addition.. coat the outter surface of the new crank seal with a skim of high quality RTV before installation, LUBE THE LIP SEAL with a light coat of grease or break in lube.
Clean the front case half area well behind the flywheel, scuff it slightly, apply a small and consitant bead of high quality RTV externally along the case seam and the cam plug seam.....just in case...
You'd be real suprised what can be sealed from seeping on the outside with good sealer.
I use GM Engine Sealant. 88864346 when necessary.
Also heard some good things about Hondas sealant called Hondabond in a cheese whiz like can...
These products are used to repair alloy case and even wheel porosity... so works well for lots of applications.
_________________
aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
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crvc · Samba Member Joined: April 28, 2004 Posts: 1308

VOLKSWAGNUT · Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 9:14 am Post subject:

Start making some comparison measurments to a good stock flywheel with a dial caliper..
Look at the sealing surface.. It should be very very smooth.
If you have excessive thrust in your crank and the sealing surface isnt perfect... it will saw the crank seal in a short time.
Slide a new crank seal on the spout of both flywheels and note if there is any difference in seal lip deflection.
_________________
aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
Usually and often edited

61SNRF · Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 5:59 pm Post subject:

The state of the art in finding engine oil leaks is by using a UV dye added to the engine oil and then inspecting for leaks with a proprietary UV light in conjunction with UV enhancing glasses Smile

...
http://www.grainger.com/product/4LTU8?gclid=CLXZ-6...18005717:s
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/151244929352?lpid=82
Other than that, very close inspection based on lots of trial and error may occur Crying or Very sad

_________________
-Bruce

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

johnhous · Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 10:22 pm Post subject:

I bought silicone oil plate gaskets from Wolfsburg West and no more oil leak from the strainer area. I was so happy I got back online and bought the matching valve cover silicone gaskets as well. Wipe them off and re use them a couple of times. $6.50 + shipping is worth a shot.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113198031SI

drscope · Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 11:37 am Post subject:


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