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Reduction box to spring plate question?
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harley-big-dog
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reduction box to spring plate question? Reply with quote

Hi all,
1st time im having a lash doing my own mechanics so not fully sure of my self.
Im fitting 1 rear axle reduction box as the last one the 3 bolts that fit the reduction box to the spring plate the 3 bolts walked them selves out and damaged the thread in the boxes.

Iv just fitted the outter tube of the reduction boxes over the rear swing axle but the 3 bolt holes on the spring plate dont fit flush with the reduction box bolt holes ie... the bottom bolt holes when lined up with spring plate and reduction box touch together but the other 2 bolt holes go angled out up to 1 1/2 cm to the top bolt hole, which dont sound much but it seems the spring plate will put a lot of pressure on the top 2 bolts and some where has to move over when i bolt them in... hope this all makes sence Cool

Question is... is this all ok and just the norm or could this be causing a problem which may of have caused the problem in the 1st place?

Help and advice would be top stuff. thanks
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pyrOman
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hope this helps you at least some... until you've done this swap a number of times, it is best to have at least another person helping you out. In my early days, a transaxle swap was a 2 day 2 man job! Shocked

The fine thread of them bolts is prone to stripping if not started correctly or is over-torqued. If stripped, best way to fix it is with a helicoil insert. I've rethreaded with a larger size thread but that requires opening up the holes on the plates and then there will be some "slop" which may cause other issues later. Confused

There's a hundred ways to skin a cat, though he prolly don't like any of 'em! First, try to find the hole that aligns the easyest and with least resistance and make sure to start the thread correctly but do not tighten all the way. Just enough to hold the RGB in place. Then align the next hole and repeat. It is indeed a PITA but can be done with care. Good luck! Cool


BTW, I do not miss that job at all since changing to IRS. Razz
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harley-big-dog
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for the info pal, it has been a complete ball ache shows me why iv been paying people in the passed but i must say iv enjoyed quite a bit of it and i want learn... hence giving it a lash myself Cool

iv ordered some new bolts which i should get tomorrow so will have ago with your info but i have seen in the old trusty Splity manual that you should put the bolts in a pacific order, starting with the middle bolt then the bolt close to the dampers then the 2 outer bolts as there are 4 bolts holding the reduction box to the spring plate Confused Confused Confused

Beer time me thinks BURP!!!

Think i may need to swap over to IRS sometime soon as this is the 2nd time its happened Evil or Very Mad
cheers fella Very Happy
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chrisflstf
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use a clamp to pull the springplate flush to the RGB housing. You should be able to run the bolts in with your fingers. If you use the wrench to pull the springplate in, you may pull the threads out
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harley-big-dog
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Genius Chris... why didnt i think of that Shocked

Cheers dude sounds like a plan for tomorrow mornin Wink
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MrBusCo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

x2 on this method. I also use a big clamp when removing the same bolts also to prevent stripping/stress on the threads.

chrisflstf wrote:
Use a clamp to pull the springplate flush to the RGB housing. You should be able to run the bolts in with your fingers. If you use the wrench to pull the springplate in, you may pull the threads out

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otis_bartleh
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 2:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Reduction box to spring plate question??? Reply with quote

harley-big-dog wrote:
... as the last one the 3 bolts that fit the reduction box to the spring plate the 3 bolts walked them selves out and damaged the thread in the boxes...


Also, didn't see anyone mention this, but there should be lock plates for those 3 bolts to prevent them from walking out, or at least mine had them and believe them to be stock...
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harley-big-dog
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are lock plates mate? i cant be doing with them bolts going walkies again.
cheers
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

harley-big-dog wrote:
What are lock plates mate? i cant be doing with them bolts going walkies again.
cheers


Sorry I couldn't find any pics in the gallery, and this is the best pic I could find. I can go take a better pic soon. The plates go on like a washer would, and you bend part of the lock plate on the flat side of the bolt so it won't move...

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chrisflstf
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just use split lockwashers. But you need to re-torque them after 50 miles or so, as they will come loose. There is a torque sequence also that should be followed
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harley-big-dog
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for that,very good to know, im going to look into these lock plates more,sounds like the way forward... thanks very much for your time & info dude Cool
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otis_bartleh
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chrisflstf wrote:
... There is a torque sequence also that should be followed


Yeah, I forgot about that, I tried to find it, but think it was in the Bentley, which is at home, and can't remember it off the top of my head, but think it was rear middle, then front, then top rear and bottom rear??

And one of the manuals (the one available in the tech section) says to tighten those bolts to 72 ft/lbs.

Found it, yup, torque sequence, is middle rear, then front, then the remaining two rear ones...

harley-big-dog wrote:
thanks for that,very good to know, im going to look into these lock plates more,sounds like the way forward... thanks very much for your time & info dude Cool


Cool
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

harley-big-dog wrote:
thanks for that,very good to know, im going to look into these lock plates more,sounds like the way forward... thanks very much for your time & info dude Cool


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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 4:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could just drill and tap those holes slightly bigger and use Time-Serts to fix the problem.

We have done this many a time and use the longer inserts they have to allow longer than stock bolts.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392194&highlight=timesert+rgb
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joe cool
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

x2 on Time-Serts. 14 years and 8 SST's and still holding strong.
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Daniel G
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a standard tap that is close enough in thread pitch and size you can retap the holes. I had to do this in the previous trans I had in my bus. I tapped the holes out deeper and used grade 8 hardware. I got this information from a thread on here about stripped spring plate bolts or timeserts. It was the perfect size that did not require drilling out the holes. I stripped them the same way you did. When I installed another transaxle later on I did as the others suggested and used a clamp to line it up.
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harley-big-dog
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2014 2:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers guys... how do i know the torque of the bolts 72 ft/lbs i think one of you mentioned? Shocked
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2014 5:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

harley-big-dog wrote:
cheers guys... how do i know the torque of the bolts 72 ft/lbs i think one of you mentioned? Shocked


Use a torque wrench is best.

Going to a slightly bigger bolt is not so good an option. If you strip the hole out later you just have to go to even a bigger hole. With Time-Sert you just have to remove the insert and install a new one instead.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2014 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

From the Bentley Manual-

"From Chassis No. 1197853, the lock plate- Part No. 211513535 for the spring plate securing screws was replaced by a spring washer- Part No. N122321."

I think that is roughly the start of Bignut trannies, n'est pas?

If you don't have your own copy of the Bentley Manual, well, WTF, over? A guy can't be running to the interwebs whenever he runs into a question in the middle of wrench-time, now, can he (or she, of course)?
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2014 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

harley-big-dog wrote:
cheers guys... how do i know the torque of the bolts 72 ft/lbs i think one of you mentioned? Shocked


72 lb ft x 1.355818 = 97.61 Nm
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